Flaminia Coup -the Bugatti-Wagen- - Page 7 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #91 of 479 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Also developed a solution for worn out centre steering rods. New old stock is very hard to find, so restoring the original item is a good way to go. Have a couple of them to keep in my stock after cleaning and powder coating.

Hubert
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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900
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post #92 of 479 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 01:20 PM
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Hubert, what exactly have you done to those ball joints? It looks to me as if you have manufactured a new concave face against the ball which is adjustible to take up wear. Is that correct? Great idea if you have the tools yourself, or a competent machinist.

Richard J
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post #93 of 479 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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Richard, there are two modifications. The obvious one is the cap instead of the pressed on cover. I had to mill the upper side of the housing plain and cut a metric thread in it. Inside there now is a hemispherical seat made out of bronce, corresponding to the diameter of the ball. The original pin and spring are used. On final assembly, I will protect the cap from turning open with Loctite or similar.

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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900

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post #94 of 479 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Rebuilding of the rear left corner (second attempt). Fitting the wing is slowly coming closer.

Hubert
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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900
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post #95 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
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The fuel filler flap box was corroded. Originally I only wanted to replace the lower part, but while cutting the rusted part out I decided to make a new one. Much better than placing patches.

Hubert
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post #96 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Radiator improvement

When it is warm outside, the GT and the convertible tend to get too hot on fast highway passages and in traffic jams. Both engines are clean inside and the water pump is optimized, a newly developed thermostat installed.

In my opinion the radiator of the Flaminia is not undersized. So I had to do something new (at least for Flaminia). The spark came when I looked under the bonnet of my neighbour´s 7.5 l big block. The fan linked straight to the belt (as with the Flaminia), but it was producing an enormous air stream through the radiator. It has a full size air duct around it. That was what I had to copy.

The Flaminia fan is only stirring the air behind the radiator leading to a temp drop in the radiator of only 4-5°C. That under some circumstances is not enough for the control loop.

Long story short, I ran a prototype on the GT on Monday, ambient temp 25°C (not as hot as I would have liked for the trial), speed 170 km/h and the temp gauge nailed to 80°C. After leaving the highway and stopping at a traffic light the temp went up by 3-5°C only and began to sink after a minute or two. I measured the radiator inlet/outlet temp and it is now cooling down by 9°C.

Of course the results have to prove when it is really hot but it looks very promising.

The painting of the first air duct is a mess, have to correct that!


Hubert
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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900

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post #97 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 01:05 PM
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Excellent technical solution, but I think you are right that the Flaminia radiator is generally adequate, like most Italian cars. My convertible remains in the normal temperature range on the hottest days - except when the shop forgot to reinstall the fan belt !

You might also consider modifying the fluid with something like "WaterWetter": Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives

Thanks for continuing this interesting thread.

Don
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post #98 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 04:50 AM
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Hubert,

The duct solution is excellent. The efficiency of a fan is greatly increased by ducting. The next step (if needed) would be to complete the duct with a portion below the fan - making a complete circle. It could bolt on so that the duct could be installed and removed with the fan / radiator in place.

This solution is so much more elegant than bolting in an electric fan, which while effective would be out of place.

I look forward to your updates on the labor of love project. The fabrication is awesome.

Mark

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post #99 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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I have analized many aspects of the cooling circuit and worked out a solution for worn out water pumps. We replace the corroded/cavitated surface of the body.

Furthermore I have developed a new thermostat providing much better flow than the old one. Available via classiclancia.com: thermostat I am running a prototype thermostat actuating the shutters in front of the radiator and built a replacement thermostat for the oil cooling circuit.

Even started investigating the output of the different water pumps. We had to stop that because the electronics of the flow meter was disturbed by the ignition of the car (Meanwhile i solved that problem, too.)

Hubert
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post #100 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 10:05 AM
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shrouds

Hi Hubert, will you be offering these shrouds for sale?

If so sign me up!

Kjell "Shel" Nelin 61 Flaminia GT
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post #101 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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EPI-AIR DUCT again

I have to say a few more words about this, because it is so thrilling to see the results. Temp measuring showed very promising values, but as done with the contactless laser gauge I was not quite satisfied. These results vary a lot depending on where exactly you point at.

I wanted to know more about the air flow, so I made a short scientific experiment. The measuring points were chosen in "X" form, center and four corners.The lower corners were at the hight of the lowest shutter flap not at the bottom of the radiator.

Set up was static of course. Engine revs 1000, 1500 and with airduct 2000. Before the experiment I thought the flow rate would go up all over the radiator section, but it went up in the upper corners mainly. The center did not change much, which appears logical after finding out. Right in front of the fan, there is no false air coming from the sides, the easiest way for the air is through the radiator. The more you move out, the higher the content of false air is.

Also interesting, although understandable , the poor results in the lower area of the radiator, I presume that the lower 5-10 cms of the radiator are completely out of operation, when the car is standing.

As Mark said, if the gain of efficiency still is too small, one could build an air duct covering the full surface of the radiator.

Simplified calculation: the air flow jumps from 2 m/sec to 3,7 m/sec at idling, based on fan diameter the volume increases from 13.400 liters/min to 23.800 liters/min (80%) this explains, why the radiator output is so much better when the car is standing.


By the way, the device now is approved up to 190 km/h on the Autobahn.

Hubert
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post #102 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 02:34 PM
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More excellent work, Hubert!
Thank you.
-Steve
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post #103 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-30-2014, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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It is growing. Did some welding and fitting, welds have to be planished and cleaned yet.

The lip is due to fine adjustment as well, but this has to wait until the other rear wing is done and the boot lid fixed.

Next step will be to get the hinges of the boot lid in the right position.

Hubert
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post #104 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-30-2014, 02:53 PM
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I'm a little surprised after going through this amazing thread showing such a exhaustive restoration that you are leaving that pitting on the left rear guard. What is the plan there? Lead?

You are very skilled and I am in envy of the tools you have access to!
Pete

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post #105 of 479 (permalink) Old 08-31-2014, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk View Post
I'm a little surprised after going through this amazing thread showing such a exhaustive restoration that you are leaving that pitting on the left rear guard. What is the plan there? Lead?

You are very skilled and I am in envy of the tools you have access to!
Pete
Pete,
I had been thinking about the pitting for quite a while. The pits do not go through and although it may look different, I try to keep as much of the original substance as possible. If I would replace that area, I would have to rebuild the complete fin. I should have better made a complete wing then (or use the spare one). To answer your question, my plan is to fill them with solder, but I will consult the paint shop before.

The pitting on the other side is worse, I think I will have to replace some areas there. You will see photos.

I have a little "tool addiction". My strategy for the last 30 years (especially during my student years) was, if something had to be repaired (on my every day driver), don´t have it made in a shop, save that money and spend it for the tools and do the job yourself. Many things gathered in my shop in this time.

Regarding the heavy tools I am lucky having a milling machine and a lathe in the company. Currently I am thinking of buying a 3D-printer, for company purposes of course. But it would make reproduction of door handles or mirror parts much easier. I could make the moulds and patterns for casting on my own then. Problem is to find an application in the company that justifies the investment.

To use the spot welder in the wheel housing I had to make special arms for it. I could have bought some more or less suitable ones for 250 Euro, instead I paid 40 Euro for the copper rod and made perfect ones for this task.

Hubert
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Last edited by Tedesco; 08-31-2014 at 12:26 AM.
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