Flaminia Coup -the Bugatti-Wagen- - Page 27 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #391 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the promised video


The double cams at the right form the electricl contact in combination with the leaf spring.

Hubert


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post #392 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 07:00 AM
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i love it! but i do see how easily it would become unreliable. the ratcheting relays i am more familiar with have a very similar arrangement.
the lancia version has a very powerful coil, i bet if everything isn't lined up exactly right and lubed properly it could bend that assembly out of shape very easily.

here's an example of what i use. but the current load is far less than the relays you have there.
G4Q Ratchet Relay/Dimensions | OMRON Industrial Automation

brian
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post #393 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Merry Christmas

While the Christmas tree is being decorated upstairs i had to seek shelter in the cellar after offering my help.

The relay conversion is completed and besides the hopefully gained plus in reliability there are other absolutely noteworthy side effects. First of all the power consumption has gone down from 1,2 A peak to 35 mA. This will let the lights shine more brightly and the ignition spark even better!!!

Second the conversion reduces the overall weight of the car by spectacular 0,275 kg. This boosts the power to weight ratio from 9,714 kg/hp to a breath taking 9,711 kg/hp (based on GT 3C, 140 hp). Using the now even faster reacting high beam you simply wipe everybody off the left lane on the Autobahn.

Merry Christmas and good wishes for the New Year!



components to be restored



fairly clean upstairs



same downstairs






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post #394 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 11:22 AM
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Very, very interesting improvement in power/weight ratio! So, maybe you should bring it to Bonneville next summer?

And definitely more exciting than dissecting the Spiders' ignition switch to find the broken contact.

Speaking of Christmas decorations and letting those that do something well do it better without our "help", here's the stocking I "helped" my wife make...

Happy Motoring to us all!!
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post #395 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 11:45 AM
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Great work Hubert!
On mine last year was interrupted one of the two line that you maintained....
Merry Christmas and Happy New year!
Giovanni
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post #396 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 01:23 AM
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Hello Hubert,
I follow with Interest the Work Steps of your Flaminia.
I am impressed by your Precision and Perfection in Detail.
A real extreme Project.
BR
BP

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post #397 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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The right rear fender had been fixed only provisional to the body. There was some mismatch regarding the lower rear corner and the rhd gap which I was not sure how to solve. The gap was close to zero while at the other side it was ok.

Spend some time on thinking. Finally decided to go for my human double stamp press in order to widen the trunk a little bit. (I am not playing with my phone but operating the camera via wifi)



The result was surprising. On the left(!) a 12mm long weld broke, releasing some internal tension on the whole rear assembly.



After that it was easy to fix the rhd fender correctly achieving an even gap all around and redoing the cracked weld. The boot lid will require some fine tuning nonetheless.



The passenger side door skin is waiting to be mated to the door frame, but the next thing to be addressed is the floor panel shown.





Hubert


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post #398 of 451 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Happy New Year

It still is Dec 31st over here, the right time to prepare for 2019. Traditionally you should not leave things undone over the night of New Years Eve. In this case the motivation is different. As had been remarked before the Flaminia has been waiting for my care for quite a while and I wanted her to enter the new year “in progress” rather than “sitting in the corner”.

The plan was to open up all the different kinds of welds (plugs, spots, worms) and then more or less take the panel out without further damage. Wanted to put up for discussion whether I should try to repair the panel (partial replacements) or make a new one. Even thought of discussing if to try make it out of one piece.



There were some hidden welds preventing my original idea. Instead I crookedly sat inside the shell trying to tear the panel out after I had opened all visible welds with various grinding equipment, which by the way enabled the removal at all. An angle grinder alone would not have done the job. Three hours later it was out.



tear drop welding, the method to go?





Note the different types of reinforcements and the sand.



Now here it is, massively creased, but partially salvable if necessary. When did you ever have a look that deep inside a Flaminia´s bones?
Amazing how solid this part of the shell is!



Happy motoring and a peaceful 2019 to all!

Hubert
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post #399 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Can pulling

Today I did some work on engine 823.00 1339. In order to get the liners pulled, I welded a 30°-support which can be fixed to the work bench by a pair of c-clamps.

Fastened this way, I could use a 2 m long tube to extend the rod shown in the pics. Easy job!

When doing some cleaning close to one of the seats a hole appeared, which I am not a hundred percent sure what it is meant for. It is a drilled hole, produced by purpose.

Thought it might be a drain hole to drain this side of the block when draining the cooling liquid. But where does it lead?











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post #400 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 10:26 AM
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Amazing how good the structure under the floor panel looked. Would have expected it to rust from the bottom up, but the lower pieces look good.

Mark

84 Spider - Long gone, but started the addiction; 85 GTV6 - Current project, Supercharged, Mega Squirt; 88 Verde - "Milo" It has a name, must be a keeper
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post #401 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:32 AM
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Hubert,
Sorry to be slow to answer. The hole you noticed is indeed a coolant channel. It goes vertically down to the longitudinal front to rear channel, that also ties in to the left to right channel you can see on the back of the block, with plugs on each bank. I have a display block (I presume made from a production reject) that is free of corrosion where it is clear. I will try to remember to bring my camera to the shop.
-Steve
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post #402 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B24Spider View Post
Hubert,
Sorry to be slow to answer. The hole you noticed is indeed a coolant channel. It goes vertically down to the longitudinal front to rear channel, that also ties in to the left to right channel you can see on the back of the block, with plugs on each bank. I have a display block (I presume made from a production reject) that is free of corrosion where it is clear. I will try to remember to bring my camera to the shop.
-Steve
Steve,

that confirms what I guessed. It is located at cyl. no 5, left bank, last pot in front of the timing window. I´d say it goes down to the vertical channel tying the two banks But can´t find the opening at the other side.

The coolant flow is from the water pump at teh front along the liners and then going up through the heads exiting at the front/top of the inlet manifold.

I´d say the questioned hole does not affect the cooling circuit much, does it?



PS: Please show some pics of the display engine!!!


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post #403 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 11:31 PM
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Hello Hubert, if you can interest, my 823.00 does not drain the dynamo side bank.
it may be that it has a closed hole like yours.
the engine does not show problems, it runs well and does not overheat for what I've been able to try till now.
Giovanni
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post #404 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni1985 View Post
Hello Hubert, if you can interest, my 823.00 does not drain the dynamo side bank.
it may be that it has a closed hole like yours.
the engine does not show problems, it runs well and does not overheat for what I've been able to try till now.
Giovanni
Hello Giovanni,

that is what I am expecting (meaning: no problems temperaturewise) but I am going deeper and deeper into the details and have been thinking of opening all the channels and clean them. But would have to have all the plugs made to close the channels afterwards, don´t know if it is worth it. On the other hand, there is some thoughts going on to enlarge the displacement of a Flaminia engine. In this case you will need every single milliliter of coolant flow you can get.

Will have the Schenck prepped for operation in February, time to get something to test on it.

Hubert


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post #405 of 451 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 12:10 PM
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Hubert, I was always told that the liners where a shrink fit and this always required the block to be heated before the liners could be removed. Did you have any trouble pulling the liners this way? Maybe Flaminia engines are more like Alfas that I thought. . .

Jim . . . '72 Super 1300, '70, 1750GTV, 2nd series,
'62, Lancia Flaminia Zagato3c, 2nd series
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