Flaminia Coup -the Bugatti-Wagen- - Page 25 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #361 of 451 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
no pm received hubert, do you have my private email?
Brian,

I tried again!

Hubert


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post #362 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Engine rebuild and motor power testing station

While working on the engine, a power meter of the mid seventies was offered to me. Hesitated first, wrong colour, but the huge gauge got me finally. Basically it is an eddy current brake, fully analog. It was part of the inventory of a vocational school and has only been used a few times.

Any ideas out there of how to operate this thing?





It requires a water connection for cooling the brake, so where shall it be placed?

Hubert


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post #363 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 03:10 PM
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Seriously cool. Definitely you have to install it. A little of this and a little of that and it'll slip right in. Easy as pie . . .

Jim . . . '72 Super 1300, '70, 1750GTV, 2nd series,
'62, Lancia Flaminia Zagato3c, 2nd series

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post #364 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
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Seriously cool. Definitely you have to install it. A little of this and a little of that and it'll slip right in. Easy as pie . . .
This
Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
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post #365 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 11:53 PM
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Very nice and unusual location !

Congrats !

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post #366 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 08:02 AM
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that's an amazing find. coupling to it may prove to be interesting, and sometimes the old analog control systems can be drifty till you get the dust off the circuits.
hopefully you got the manuals with it, i just love figuring out stuff like that, i wish i lived down the street from you...
if it's like other water brakes i think the water does more than cooling, it may be used as a hydraulic fluid.
maybe the people here can help, https://www.dynamometer-world.com/in...nck-wt470.html

brian
s1 fulvia sport, s3 appia vignale
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post #367 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
that's an amazing find. coupling to it may prove to be interesting, and sometimes the old analog control systems can be drifty till you get the dust off the circuits.
hopefully you got the manuals with it, i just love figuring out stuff like that, i wish i lived down the street from you...
if it's like other water brakes i think the water does more than cooling, it may be used as a hydraulic fluid.
maybe the people here can help, https://www.dynamometer-world.com/in...nck-wt470.html
Brian,

that would be a fruitful neighborhood, I am sure!

Unfortunately there is no documentation coming with the water brake. I spent a few minutes on where to put it today and untangled the cables of the control cabinet. Four or five temp sensors, two of them quite fat. The small ones feed the gauges going to 140°C max, can be used for water and oil of the tested engine I think. The two bigger sensors feed the rectangular gauges going up to 900°C. Am I going to measure the exhaust gas temperature with them? What for? To find out that the engine is running to lean and preparing for melt down?

The square meter in the middle is a rev counter.

Then there is a manual load lever probably to identify the force performed at a certain rev value. A modification has been made here. The lever can be moved back and forth by means of a small motor. This you can control via a cord based remote control with a fairly long cable.

Wonder if the guys back in the day were afraid of setting the beast free and therefore took shelter in a far remote corner of the shop while running a test. Would explain the size of the main gauge by the way

I have a vision!





The take up frame has to be resized for Flaminia as maximum size engine. Will have a couple of connection flanges made for Flaminia, Flavia and Fulvia. That will do for the moment.

And it has to come off the pallet! (had that topic before)

And then there is this colour thing

Hubert


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post #368 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 07:17 AM
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i could see exhaust temp sensors for diesel engines to help set the maximum fuel from the pump. maybe the class had a runaway engine at one time and the long remote became sensible.
i'd lose that green color. later production schenck had a very nice industrial grey that would look great. not the light grey of electrical panels, but a darker shade.

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post #369 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 09:36 AM
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Hubert,

Maybe you could usefully google ?

It's like that that I found the impossible to find for my Sun 504.

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post #370 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
i could see exhaust temp sensors for diesel engines to help set the maximum fuel from the pump. maybe the class had a runaway engine at one time and the long remote became sensible.
i'd lose that green color. later production schenck had a very nice industrial grey that would look great. not the light grey of electrical panels, but a darker shade.
Will show some pics of the sensors, maybe we can discuss how to install them and what for. Not familiar with Diesel engines up to now (and I am seriously planning to leave it that way)


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Hubert,

Maybe you could usefully google ?

It's like that that I found the impossible to find for my Sun 504.
Investigation has been started. Found some hints already but not an operation manual.

Hubert


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post #371 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 01:38 AM
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You'll have to check every day on Ebay, and periodically on Google.

Try to look for specilaists of that stuff. They often have not all the material on-line.

70' Ghibli SSS (one-off - featured in Octane UK #183 + Octane Deutschland #38)
63' 2600 Touring H-Top S.1
64' 2600 Touring H-Top S.2
74' Montreal
66' Moretti 1100R
76' Fiat 130 Coupé
68' Datsun Roadster 2000 Racing...

16' 991 GT3 RS soon...
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post #372 of 451 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 07:27 AM
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hi huibert,
still waiting for pictures of the sensors. have you had any luck finding documentation for it?

brian
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post #373 of 451 (permalink) Old 11-25-2018, 12:22 PM
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Hi Hubert & others,

A pity that block corrosion. Maybe it could be saved so, that after the hole(s) is welded, a careful cleaning and then coating of the inside of water chamber with some kind of epoxy?

As for the coolant issues, coolant is fairly cheap and fairly easy to replace once in two or three years, so I wouldn't bother with any fancy "eternal" liquids, unless they are really known and tested good. I think the main reason for the corrosion of Flaminia engines is neglect and nothing else. Worn-out or non-existing rust inhibitor, aluminum engine and different other metals in cooling system will not be nice for the sacrificial metal, which in this case happens to be aluminum...

Miika
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post #374 of 451 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Miika,

welcome here! Fully agree on what you say, but with my engine now things are as they are. Welding should be possible, but the shown hole is only the place where it corroded most. There are other areas in various states of destruction. Will come back to engine when working on the Flaminia again.

BTW, there are plans to reproduce the wire sleeves of the Flaminia harness. Feasability is just being checked.

Wonder if there is any interest in participating out there.







Hubert


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post #375 of 451 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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engine brake

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
hi huibert,
still waiting for pictures of the sensors. have you had any luck finding documentation for it?
Brian,

give me some more time. The remote control for the lever is working, tested that already!

Hubert


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