Flaminia Coup -the Bugatti-Wagen- - Page 17 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #241 of 468 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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education forward, project backward

After totally running out of the project schedule, at least some collection of know-how took place. Once more I spent a week at a hands on class. This time it was about aluminium forming and, most important, welding with the torch. The result is a Jaguar XK 150 rear wing.

On the Flaminia body there is some setback, as I noticed that the lower lip of the mouth does not have the correct angle from top to bottom, it has to be made again and the lower corner bits have been removed already.

Hubert
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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900

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post #242 of 468 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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On January 7th I asked about the small panel inside the front wings (see pic 1). My first idea was, that it might be used during production to fix parts on a frame before welding them together and slide them off the support later.

When I was in Vienna I had the chance to inspect and drive an unrestored and original Coupé. It is weird, but we were jumping around this time capsule like children, and the owner insisted on lifting the car with the on bord jack. The jack has a rubber cushion with which it touches the painted front wing when cranking the car up. The questioned panel is right where the cushion touches the wing. It is a reinforcement placed inside the wing merely for this purpose.

Also started the manufacturing of the new lower lip panel. It is not finished yet, but the bead roller was seriously used for the first time. You may choose an upper die with a certain radius, in order to achieve slightly round corner like on the original. A lot of time was spent on making more precise patterns and very exactly cut sheet.

Hubert
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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900

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post #243 of 468 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 04:48 AM
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Wirklich superfeinste Arbeit Hubert !!
Wie bist du mit deiner neuen Magnet-Abkantbank zufrieden ??
Funktioniert das Ding in der Praxis auch wirklich mit dem Magnet bzw. bis welcher Blechstärke ?
Möchte mir eventuell eine 2 Meter-Ausführung zulegen.
Danke und VG
Bernhard

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post #244 of 468 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Bernhard, please read pm.

By the way, the gap between grill and body at the driver´s side is about to be closed. The panels had been made exactly as they originally were, leading to a 4-5 mm gap, which had been closed by lead or tin or however you call it at Pininfarina. I am doing the same thing. Again it is a technique you have to learn. Started with some lead/tin rods we had in the company. That turned out to be of a wrong mixture, meaning when it got liquid it flowed like water. I remembered having some other rods left over from a restoration twenty five years ago (That was my first restoration, a dark blue Flavia Convertibile, virtually put 500kg of tin in it)

With that stuff it was easier, because the alloy has a "pasty like" phase at a certain temperature. You have to use wooden spattles(?) to form that, nice job keeping the tin pasty and squeezing it in shape without having your spattle catching fire all the time. Even more, you have to wax the spattle frequently, otherwise the tin will stick to it.

Most hated moment? When you give to much heat and a previously nice patch goes down on the floor like a curtain.

Hubert
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Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, A112 Abarth, Flaminia Coupé 2.5, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, Unimog U900

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post #245 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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In the second pass the front end now has found its place again and fine tuning of the door skin is in progress. As planned months ago, the bead was made with the bead roller, fast, crisp, straight . . . perfect.

My brother in law dropped in and we spent a day and a night with a photo session, playing with light and the flashlights.

The left door frame has been fitted to the car and primed, the primer looks quite ugly, but I hope it works.

And finally Sophia came over for a short stay. Well, I am too young for her, but still nice company.

Hubert
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post #246 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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While preparing the door skin it became obvious that the flanges of the door frame were suffering from surface rust. The first idea was to make a patch panel and fit that in. In fact I made that panel and when looking where to cut the old one I noticed that the whole part was not really good. Some material was broken off and there were cracks in stressed corners as well as some more corrosion.

The flange of the new panel was formed with the bead roller, rectifying it with the shrinker later on. The bead roller was also used to sharpen the edges of the pan which had been made with a hammer and the English Wheel. Also used the planishing hammer for some refinement.

No need to say that there where (only) rudiments of junction plates hidden in the door.

Hubert
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post #247 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 06:42 AM
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Hi Hubert, my name is Giovanni and i'm new on this forum. I see your fantastic work on this Flaminia end i think that you are very very great! I see your other work on Lancia club Deutschland.... Superb!
I ve got two Flaminia coupé, One is a 2800 3b in vey good condition, omologata Asi gold plate, colour silver whit interior in original laeter
The second is a 2500 like yours, in similar condition. I am work on it from about one year but my work is not comparable than yours in terms of quality...
I am sorry for my english but i have some rust?

Giovanni Bocchi
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post #248 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Giovanni, welcome to the forum. I like your selection of Flaminias. The 2.8 looks really great and it drives fantastically, I assume. One of my friends also has a 2.8 and that car drives like a three year old modern car. Although the differences are small I prefer the 2.5. Once your 2.5 is ready you have direct comparison. Good luck with the restoration. As you are in Italy you will have access to all the parts and knowhow you need, but in case there is something you would like to know, I will be happy to share my experience.

Hubert


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post #249 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 03:41 AM
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Thank you Hubert for your disponibility. In this period I startet to rebuild some corroded parts and follow your work is very helpful.
The 2800 is fantastic to drive, very reactive end elastic. The differenze between 2500 and 2800 are many in every part of the car.
2800 was in my family since 1967! The 2500 was bought in the end of 60 for withdraw the windscreen for 2800... The car were put in a barn end stayed here since one year ago... When I recovered it was disheartening....Nobody had ever seen it started... but after a lot of care I came back to drive it in my courtyard.

Giovanni
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post #250 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 09:27 AM
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Only now I see that tre of five photo that I uploaded were not visibile... Sorry..
Giovanni
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post #251 of 468 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 07:34 AM
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FYI guys, i have what seems to be NOS brake master cylinder housings for flaminia if you have a need. we'd need to verify fitment, and i don't need much for them.

brian
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post #252 of 468 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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"Disintigration" and damage analysis of the door frame. After taking the complete front column of the door frame out, all the different panels will be removed, too. Three things have to be remarked. First, there is some rust remaining after blasting (ok not a surprise after the last four years), second the poor quality of fitting and welding the panels, and third the structural damage at the seating of the upper hinge. All cracks can be found in the case structure as well as in the backplate. I gave them some hits with the hammer on pic 4 to make them more visible. In pic 5 i marked the cracks with a black pen.

New components are under construction. Unfortunately I have not been successful finding punching and flaring tools (dimple dies) over here, punching is not the problem, I have some of these, but obviously i have not found the right German word for flaring, always end up at Mittler Bros. USA or so. Tend to work "non original" by leaving out the flaring.

Hubert
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post #253 of 468 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 10:54 AM
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As you know, the "flairing" is what gives the part strength. The process in English is called "Dimpling". Dies are readily available in various sizes.

Last edited by divotandtralee; 08-05-2017 at 10:59 AM.
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post #254 of 468 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, you are right. I´ll think about it and investigate further if there is something available here.


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post #255 of 468 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 11:53 AM
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Grübchen Die?
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