my "new" Flaminia GT! - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #61 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 01:35 AM
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Given that the driveshaft rotates at engine speed, the absence of vibration up to 90 mph seems terrific.
It strikes me (as a long-term Lancia rear-drive transaxle owner) that the 'propershaft turns at engine speed' thing is overdone. Surely every front-engine / rear-drive car has a propshaft that turns at engine speed in top gear (aka direct drive)? If there's an overdrive fitted to the rear of an engine-mounted gearbox (as in, for example, a Triumph TR 4 or 5) the driveshaft might well be turning at greater than engine speed. Wow! I don't hear Triumph owners going on about the dreaded rotational speed of their props. Mind you, I'm not listening to them...

The complexity of the variants of the Aurelia / Flaminia propshaft and their various rubber couplings and supports is another thing though...

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post #62 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by williamcorke View Post
It strikes me (as a long-term Lancia rear-drive transaxle owner) that the 'propershaft turns at engine speed' thing is overdone. Surely every front-engine / rear-drive car has a propshaft that turns at engine speed in top gear (aka direct drive)? If there's an overdrive fitted to the rear of an engine-mounted gearbox (as in, for example, a Triumph TR 4 or 5) the driveshaft might well be turning at greater than engine speed. Wow! I don't hear Triumph owners going on about the dreaded rotational speed of their props. Mind you, I'm not listening to them...

The complexity of the variants of the Aurelia / Flaminia propshaft and their various rubber couplings and supports is another thing though...

Haha, yes that's correct. The only difference with a TR and a Flaminia is that on the latter it turns as soon as the engine turns. But you're right!
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post #63 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 05:29 AM
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Lancia was leading the way but think of how many cars have transaxles now. From Ferrari to Corvette. With modern balancing equipment it should be a non issue.
It's never been a problem on my Alfa Milano.

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70 Fulvia 1.3 Rally S
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post #64 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Flaminiasport;1096358]Congratulations! The Flaminia GT is the best looking Flaminia and one of the best cars of its time. The mechanical parts such as engine and transaxle are so well made they're almost undestructible. The only issues one could encounter are rust at the end of the two long chassis arms and in the "box" were the rear leafsprings are attached. This corrosion starts on the inside, so it's always a bit tricky to see it. Get a decent product and spray it inside these "cavities".

Hi Flaminiasport, thanks so much for your very informative post,
I will use it as a checklist as I address all the points you have raised. This is just the kind of thing I love about these kind of Bulletin Boards! As far as corrosion goes, the car is amazing in its condition, I believe it has always been stored inside.

Kjell "Shel" Nelin 61 Flaminia GT

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post #65 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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engine speed driveshafts

A drive shaft running at engine speed may be called on to run up
to engine redline speed (at least in the lower gears).
A conventional driveshaft will likely never see redline speed in a street driven car.
All driveshafts should be properly balanced of course.

Kjell "Shel" Nelin 61 Flaminia GT
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post #66 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 04:37 PM
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I remember when I had Tony Nicosia in my Flaminia and we went on a ride. He put his hand on the drive shaft tunnel to "feel" the vibrations. They were very minor. Needless to say we balanced it anyway and the car drove as smoothly as a baby butt and felt the smoother the faster it went.

I miss more power on those. Mine was a 2nd series Zagato and I always thought it should be a more powerful sports car - as opposed to be "sporting" in nature. In comparison, the drive in a very nicely set up PF coupe was a revalation. The GT character, the built quality, the wonderfully balanced package. There, it all works perfectly.

Mike

60 Citroen ID - 62 Lancia Appia Vignale Convertibile - 64 Giulia TI - 69 Porsche 911S Targa (Soft Window) - 72 Junior Z 1600
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post #67 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 12:16 AM
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more on drivetrain vibration

Another crucial factor to consider apart from the propshaft itself is the accurate alignment of the front and rear components (engine / clutch + transaxle) relative to each other.

I'm told that if you mount an Aurelia Berlina engine into a B20 without lowering the front engine mounts (the Aurelia engine has a mount at each corner, and the front ones on a Berlina are lower - which will raising the front of such an engine if put into a Coupe) terrible drivetrain vibration will result.

As I understand it, this is why a torque tube - a rigid mount joining engine and transaxle together, as per a late Ferrari 275 but not the early ones - is sometimes used.

I'm about to put a modified B12 engine into a B20 and the solution is 1. to use a B20-type bolt-on mount for the front right of the engine, and 2. to reduce the height of the rubber bushes on the front lhs where the generator is. Not ideal to run with less insulation, but the alternative would be to machine the block or cut the car's shell: neither desirable.

Anyway, a fresh and correct set of rubber mounts for the lovely lumps either end of a Flaminia or Aurelia would be a sensible idea for those suffering from the shakes. These bushes do deteriorate and are available from Omicron and probably others.

Last edited by williamcorke; 01-26-2012 at 11:47 PM.
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post #68 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaminiasport View Post
The only issues one could encounter are rust at the end of the two long chassis arms and in the "box" were the rear leafsprings are attached. This corrosion starts on the inside, so it's always a bit tricky to see it. Get a decent product and spray it inside these "cavities".
Omicron uses a borescope to look inside the sills and hollow areas of the pan for corrosion. You can then use the same hole to inject a product like Würth Cavity Protection Spray, to displace moisture and inhibit further deterioration.
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post #69 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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turn signals now functional

It turned out that the flasher unit was dead. I opened the can of the old unit and installed a modern solid state flasher. The only other problem was a loose wire for one of the dash lights.
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post #70 of 100 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Carb

I took some time on Saturday to go thru the carb. As far as I could determine, this carb is only used on Flaminias and Ferrari
250 GTs. Fortunately, it is in very good condition and simple to
work on. I am still suffering from fueling problems, so will install and electric pump next.
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post #71 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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correcting valve covers

I pulled the valve covers in order to set the valve clearance and to refinish the covers. The valve adjustment is super easy, a real pleasure after 30 years of doing the same job on 911s!

First the covers were bead blasted. I then painted with one coat
of VHT Primer, followed by four coats of VHT Wrinkle Black.

VHT Wrinkle Plus Coatings

After drying overnight, they were cured for about 30 minutes
at 200 deg F.
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post #72 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 11:39 AM
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That looks so much better now!
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post #73 of 100 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 07:52 AM
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Any more up-dates or experiences with this fabulous Flaminia?

P
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post #74 of 100 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 09:53 AM
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Well, I'm envious. The other day I went out to the garage and wiped some of the dust off my Zagato 3c just to see if it was all still there . . . It was. I'm actually giving some thought to getting the car drivable. It's been in dry storage w/ oil in the cylinders so I think the engine will turn over with a little persuasion. So, clean the carbs, fix the waterpump, and it should start. But, I'm concerned about the hydraulics which will have to be completely rebuilt. The problem is with the Lancia booster/master cylinder which have got to be the most idiocyncratic braking system every designed by man. Are these things rebuildable or should I just box everything up and send it off to Omicron?

Jim . . . '72 Super 1300, '70, 1750GTV, 2nd series,
'62, Lancia Flaminia Zagato3c, 2nd series
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post #75 of 100 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 11:37 AM
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.... But, I'm concerned about the hydraulics which will have to be completely rebuilt. The problem is with the Lancia booster/master cylinder which have got to be the most idiocyncratic braking system every designed by man. Are these things rebuildable or should I just box everything up and send it off to Omicron?
Yes, they're rebuildable, but frankly I'd box everything up and send it to Omicron. They're the only place I know of (in the English-speaking world) that gets it right first time, every time. They're not cheap, but they're the only ones I'd trust. A friend finally sent his (Fulvia) booster there after wasting time & money on a US "expert" who didn't get it right after three tries...

Ed
1970 Lancia Fulvia 1,6 HF

Last edited by 1.6 HF; 12-27-2012 at 10:04 AM.
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