my "new" Flaminia GT! - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #46 of 100 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 07:32 PM
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That is one very lovely condition Flaminia, and of course they have such wonderful instruments/interiors. I am always fascinated by and attracted to a wonderful interior.

The following cars interiors show this all so well.

The first being my brother's Flaminia GT
The second the interior of a Fiat 2300 coupe, owned by a well known UK motoring journalist - Car magazine), and looked after by his nephew/ a friend of ours here and the third of a Ferrari 330 V12, owned by a member in our club.

The point being that in the 60s car interiors and especially instrument design and steering wheel shapes really were sculptural, and pleasing to the eye.
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post #47 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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some more progress

Got some Bilsteins from Holland, rears are installed, but I will need to make a tool to remove the fronts.

I got the fuel sender unit working, now all gauges functioning (including all warning lights). Alas, the weird (and complex!) dash mounted turn signal switch doesn't work.

After some soul searching I somewhat hesitantly drilled holes in my perfect floor pans and punched holes in what appear to be the original carpets to install seat belts. I am trying to maintain
originality where appropriate. However, I intend to drive the Bejezzus out of this car and seat belts are needed for to give some glimmer of security (as much as one can get for a 50 year old beer can).....
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post #48 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 09:31 AM
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Kjell, I noticed you installed 2 point seat belts. I used a similar location, but my car had a provision for 3 point seat belts on the rear side panels, so I used that location, and they work very well.

I used a set designed for 911 Porsche with a vintage look just like yours.

Glad you got the gauges working, they look beautiful at night especially. On my car the turn signal works, but not the auto return mechanism.

Regards

Henry
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post #49 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 02:19 PM
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Nice duo you have there Kjell. Was it the sender contacts that prevented the fuel guage working? I have a non operative fuel guage on our Fulvia 2C but no power to it seems to be the problem but sender looks the same.
I assume because of LHD and the desire to give a good space between is the reason you have that beautiful Flaminia on rollers in your garage.

Richard J
'65 Giulia Ti, '69 GT Junior, 72 Spider, '74 2000 GTV, ,`00 156
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post #50 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Nice duo you have there Kjell. Was it the sender contacts that prevented the fuel guage working? I have a non operative fuel guage on our Fulvia 2C but no power to it seems to be the problem but sender looks the same.
I assume because of LHD and the desire to give a good space between is the reason you have that beautiful Flaminia on rollers in your garage.
Hi Richard, as for the sender, the car must have been stored for a long time with an empty tank as the mechanism had some
surface corrosion and was stuck at the lowest setting. I also had to mess with the wipers on the rheostat portion.

I find the rollers to be very helpful when I'm working on my cars as
they are at a good height to work underneath and easily movable.

Kjell "Shel" Nelin 61 Flaminia GT
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post #51 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 03:26 PM
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Thanks Kjell. I also found same corrosion on my sender-car had been sitting for 30yrs but dived in ignoring all my experience re checking the basics first -although probably necessary anyway from what you`ve experienced.

Richard J
'65 Giulia Ti, '69 GT Junior, 72 Spider, '74 2000 GTV, ,`00 156
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post #52 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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moving along

I spent MLK day wrenching on the Flaminia.
The front shocks are now installed, this required a Dremel tool and lots of cutting disks to get the old shocks off.
Steve Peterson went thru the fuel pump and made me a new diaphragm that works with modern fuels.
I was unable to find a new air filter, so Steve lent me a used one
for now. No modern filter is made in these dimensions.
I was able to find a Baldwin oil filter that would work in place of the old Fispa. It is Balwin p/n - PF866.
Mike Kristick was able to supply the correct oil filter.
She should be in driving condition in a week or so, then we'll see if the brake booster will free up with some exercise............
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post #53 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 06:28 PM
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What is the issue with the booster? I have a situation where the brakes are getting stuck when warm.....

Henry
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post #54 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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What is the issue with the booster? I have a situation where the brakes are getting stuck when warm.....
Hi Henry, I have only driven very limited mileage. At first the
booster would drop put after a few seconds. With some use however, it improved and now tends to stick on for a bit after the
brakes are released. The brakes and the booster have been restored, so once I get it sorted I will run it hard in the mountains and see what happens. I will make sure to have the tools I need in case they should lock on.

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post #55 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 11:03 AM
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Good luck. Doesn't sound too bad

Henry
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post #56 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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more fiddling

Work continued this weekend. Catching up on deferred maintenance, the oil was pretty black! made some 1 1/2 " spacers for the drivers seat, now I can see over the rim of the steering wheel! Cleaned up the seats while I had them out.

I flushed out the cooling system using Thoroflush, and added new coolant.
I also (temporarily) bypassed the passenger side heater as there was a good coolant leak at the hose fitting under the brake booster.

Took a long drive and the car is lovely, smooth no vibration til about 90 mph at which speed the rear view mirror starts to vibrate, I'm guessing a slight drive-shaft imbalance.
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post #57 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 11:00 AM
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Kjell, it's really great for other Flaminia owners to see your work on the car. Many thanks.

These cars are extraordinarily complex for their era, and you should never underestimate your wisdom and good fortune to have found one so sound and original. Given that the driveshaft rotates at engine speed, the absence of vibration up to 90 mph seems terrific. Last year I test drove a B24 Aurelia that shook like a "Magic Fingers' motel bed at half that speed, no quarters required.

In all of my old cars I've switched to Brad Penn oil (no connection, just a happy customer). Motor oils have been substantially reformulated over the years, even those with the same names they carried since long ago, and many traditional anti-wear additives have been removed to avoid fouling catalytic converters. Brad Penn is the same feedstock and refinery as previously produced the well-regarded Kendall 'green' oil, to which some synthetic and additives suitable for older engines have been added. It also has good detergency, which is not present in 'racing' oils some use to obtain higher ZDDP (anti-wear) levels.

Alfa Giulietta guys swear by Alumaseal and use it even in new rebuilds for its anti-corrosion and lubricative properties. It might help your coolant leak, although obviously not a substitute for any necessary hose repair.

Don
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post #58 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
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.....smooth no vibration til about 90 mph at which speed the rear view mirror starts to vibrate, I'm guessing a slight drive-shaft imbalance.
Try to fit a rubber ring on the joint of the transmission.
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post #59 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 12:21 AM
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Kjell,
Glad to see the progress. As Don says, with the shaft turning at engine speed no vibration below 90mph is pretty remarkable.

Ed
1970 Lancia Fulvia 1,6 HF
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post #60 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 01:28 AM
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Congratulations! The Flaminia GT is the best looking Flaminia and one of the best cars of its time. The mechanical parts such as engine and transaxle are so well made they're almost undestructible. The only issues one could encounter are rust at the end of the two long chassis arms and in the "box" were the rear leafsprings are attached. This corrosion starts on the inside, so it's always a bit tricky to see it. Get a decent product and spray it inside these "cavities".

The interior is bulletproof also. I used saddle soap to keep them healty. The foam on the inside will deteriorate at a quick pace each time you use it, but this can be replaced by new sections of foam.

The brakes... some say they're rubbish, but they're wrong. If they dont work properly, replace all the vacuum hoses and check that little black valve on the firewall. Three hoses are atached to it and this part deals with the vacuum which operates the whole system. Easy to dismantle, easy to clean. If problems persist... check the big drum on the Bonaldi servo. There's a large piston in it with an outer ring made of some sort of rubber. This "piston" can block sometimes causing judder when brakes are applied. Easy to dismantle and easy to lubricate. If you go one step further, you'll see this piston is attached to a fine steel rod. If this one is pitted, brake oil will leak into the piston and end via the vacuum hoses in the engine. That's not good but Omicron in England will help you. Rubber hoses like the ones between engine and oil cooler should be replaced too, they operate under full pressure so it's safe to have new ones made. On the rear side of the engine block, there' s a little red hose for the oil pressure gauge... change it too. Keep in mind these "original" rubbers are about 50 years old now and they handle a lot of pressure when the engine is revving.

The flexible brake lines should be replaced as is the brake oil, but that's routine service. Brake pads at the rear can be tricky, but the view of that magnificent transaxle is soooooo beautiful it will keep you calm like a Tibetian Monk! As you said, the valve covers should be finished in winkle finish. Get a can, clean the covers, spray them and put them in the oven at low temp for a few hours... your engine bay will thank you! Sometimes I read the wheels on a Flaminia are dull... but with a beautiful undented hubcap, a nice cream coloured rim and a perfect chrome outer ring they look extremely tasteful.


Some electrics are very refined. There's a system to prevent to activate the starter engine when the engine is running and the big relay for the headlights should be activated regularly in order to keep it is shape! Electrics are very easy. Each wire has a number and it's very easy if you have the owner's manual with the correct wiring diagram.

I love every Flaminia, but my preference goes to the Touring bodied cars. The quality of craftmanship is lightyears ahead of what Z... did and they're much more civilised, refined and finished than the Sports versions. Also the dash and interior in the Zagato versions are a bit weird.

The single carb setup is by far the best option. It lacks the "woaw" effect and suction sound of the Webers, but it's smoother to use and far less complex.

One thing looks strange... the exhaust tips la Bentley Blower, the single chrome tips look so good!

I remember my dad came to collect me from school in his 2.8 GT and my friends were fighting to decide who could come with us in the cramped back! My dad used too loosen the adjustable steering wheel and pulled it towards him under acceleration, it looked as if it was loose... Should have seen the face of these kids! We had it for some 40 years along other Flaminia's. The GT is a true jewel and a superb object in which all the best engineering Italy could offer is contained. A Flaminia, just like the Aurelia, is state of the art!

So 'to keep a long story short'... your Flaminia is awesome.

Last edited by Flaminiasport; 01-24-2012 at 02:00 AM.
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