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post #46 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff, if your garage is anything like some of the ones I had while living in San Francisco, I'm not surprised. Most of mine were too narrow and dark to work in, and some showed definite evidence of living in a seismically active area. I had one out in the Bayview where a spill on an apparently level floor would follow an almost perfect "S" path as it flowed towards the street.

But this is good news, yes? No life- or wallet-threatening tussles with the front leaf spring needed at the moment.

Re Square One: Why not start with the cheap and easy data gathering stuff? Check to see how your Konis are set (try them at full soft, if they're not already set there). Put something benign and removable (masking tape, prussian blue, etc) on the inner fender wells and drive around to see where (or if) the tires are making contact with the bodywork. Put the car on jacks (I can loan you some if you need; let me know and I'll bring them to Andrew's run) and check the state of the spring bushings, the roll bar attachments, etc.

See you on Sunday!

Regards
So, you've seen my garage? lol Yes - it's so narrow that when I pull in - I exit the car from the passenger side (much easier in the flat-floored Fulvia than the Alfa - which is why the Alfa parks in the other garage I rent!). When I first got it the garage - I spent a weekend filling in the holes in the floor where the earth had settled under the concrete creating huge dirt holes! It still has some issues, but it's workable and dry .
I've sorta given up on doing much work on the cars myself these days. I used to have a spce that I was able to work in, but where I'm parking now - it's highly frowned upon.

Jeff B.

'69 Lancia Fulvia Rallye 1,3 S
gone but not forgotten
'79 Alfetta Sprint Veloce/'77 Alfetta Sedan /'76 Alfetta Sedan/'75 Alfetta Sedan
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post #47 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by shaunpond View Post
Jeff, if your garage is anything like some of the ones I had while living in San Francisco, I'm not surprised. Most of mine were too narrow and dark to work in, and some showed definite evidence of living in a seismically active area. I had one out in the Bayview where a spill on an apparently level floor would follow an almost perfect "S" path as it flowed towards the street.

But this is good news, yes? No life- or wallet-threatening tussles with the front leaf spring needed at the moment.

Re Square One: Why not start with the cheap and easy data gathering stuff? Check to see how your Konis are set (try them at full soft, if they're not already set there). Put something benign and removable (masking tape, prussian blue, etc) on the inner fender wells and drive around to see where (or if) the tires are making contact with the bodywork. Put the car on jacks (I can loan you some if you need; let me know and I'll bring them to Andrew's run) and check the state of the spring bushings, the roll bar attachments, etc.

See you on Sunday!

Regards
THIS IS ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE FRONT GO UP, SINCE THE NEW REPRODUCE UPPER BARRIL LIKE MOUNTS ARE SOFTER THEN THE ORIGINAL,
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Lancia Fulvia 1.2HF 1966. Lancia Fulvia coupe 1.2 w/1.6HF 1st 1966. Lancia Fulvia Berlina GTE 1.3 1969. Alfa Romeo GTV 2000 1972. WWW.LALANCIA.COM
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post #48 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 11:13 AM
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THIS IS ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE FRONT GO UP, SINCE THE NEW REPRODUCE UPPER BARRIL LIKE MOUNTS ARE SOFTER THEN THE ORIGINAL,
Adan, thanks for the picture. Very good to know!

Someone went through the front suspension on mine prior to my ownership, and the buffers look pretty new. But they also look pretty "squishy".

Regards

Shaun Pond
1967 Lancia Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1.3
1962 Austin Healey 3000
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post #49 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 11:24 AM
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Adan, thanks for the picture. Very good to know!

Someone went through the front suspension on mine prior to my ownership, and the buffers look pretty new. But they also look pretty "squishy".

Regards
YES THEY DO LOOK VERY SQUISHY MY TOO, AFTER I REPLACE THEM, IS THE REPRODUCTION MATERIAL NOT HARD LIKE THE VERY ORIGINALS.

Lancia Fulvia 1.2HF 1966. Lancia Fulvia coupe 1.2 w/1.6HF 1st 1966. Lancia Fulvia Berlina GTE 1.3 1969. Alfa Romeo GTV 2000 1972. WWW.LALANCIA.COM
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post #50 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Update: Got the brakes fixed as well as a broken bolt on a front shock, which I'm certain was collateral damage from this years Melee. Ah, the price of fun... So, next is the Pedal Pusher's Rally on Nov. 15th, hoping it's not rainy, since I've yet to fix the heating/front defrost mechanism if there is such a thing I drove it in a torrential downpour on Monday, and trying to keep the windows from fogging was entertaining to say the least. It's easier than in the Alfa (which has the same lack of amenities ), since I can reach all the windows from the front seat! I ended up using the windwings to keep the front windscreen clear, but then the car floor was pretty wet by the time I got home.

Jeff B.

'69 Lancia Fulvia Rallye 1,3 S
gone but not forgotten
'79 Alfetta Sprint Veloce/'77 Alfetta Sedan /'76 Alfetta Sedan/'75 Alfetta Sedan
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post #51 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 02:36 PM
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I'm creating this thread since it was beginning to hijack the "Are there any Lancia owner's out there?" thread.

So far my Fulvia has proven to be a wild ride. I've got some "handling" issues that make it, shall we say, less pleasant to drive than the Alfa.

We've established my red Koni's should go, which would soften up the ride. I stated my next issue would then be front wheel rub in hard cornering (which it already does in tight hairpins). I'm currently running 175/65 R14 tires, don't know what it should be running, but these look good on the wheels .
I realize that as Shaun pointed out in the other thread - the shocks don't change the wheel travel, but softer shocks will allow the wheels to travel themselves into the fender more than they already do! lol

Mind you - none of this is a factor in normal day to day driving, only when I take it on local rallies and wind the bugger up, do I notice these issues. The problem is that it begs to be driven hard - but when you try to do that, it starts feeling sketchy and loses a lot of the fun factor. I'm beginning to suspect the spinout I did on the Shamrock rally was more a result of the set up on the car than it was driver error (though I'm not afraid to take full blame), since the other two Fulvias on that tour were running at approximately the same speed, but handled the turn without any drama?

Awaiting any and all advice, thanks!
put something together like this one. soon I will post pictures

Lancia Fulvia 1.2HF 1966. Lancia Fulvia coupe 1.2 w/1.6HF 1st 1966. Lancia Fulvia Berlina GTE 1.3 1969. Alfa Romeo GTV 2000 1972. WWW.LALANCIA.COM
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post #52 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 04:53 PM
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Update: Got the brakes fixed as well as a broken bolt on a front shock, which I'm certain was collateral damage from this years Melee. Ah, the price of fun... So, next is the Pedal Pusher's Rally on Nov. 15th, hoping it's not rainy, since I've yet to fix the heating/front defrost mechanism if there is such a thing I drove it in a torrential downpour on Monday, and trying to keep the windows from fogging was entertaining to say the least. It's easier than in the Alfa (which has the same lack of amenities ), since I can reach all the windows from the front seat! I ended up using the windwings to keep the front windscreen clear, but then the car floor was pretty wet by the time I got home.
Glad the brakes work. Funny I just rebuilt my heat/defrost. Took the box out of the engine bay and cleaned out about 38 years of grime then lubed the cables and took apart the fancy gear mechanism behind the red and blue wheel under the dash and cleaned/lubed that. Now all the flaps work but just as its getting cold out the (engine)thermostat stuck open, so not much heat!Its always something!
Im thinking about making a part or modifiing the water manifold so I can just use a NAPA thermostat, anybody try this yet?

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post #53 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 09:31 PM
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Glad the brakes work. Funny I just rebuilt my heat/defrost. Took the box out of the engine bay and cleaned out about 38 years of grime then lubed the cables and took apart the fancy gear mechanism behind the red and blue wheel under the dash and cleaned/lubed that. Now all the flaps work but just as its getting cold out the (engine)thermostat stuck open, so not much heat!Its always something!
Im thinking about making a part or modifiing the water manifold so I can just use a NAPA thermostat, anybody try this yet?
I went through the same clean out exercise on my heating system a couple of winters ago. My problem now is that I can never remember which settings on the blue and red wheels and the levers produce heat when I want it.

What did you have in mind as a mod to make a more conventional thermostat fit?

I'm not in love with the stock Fulvia thermostat set-up, mostly because it's such a bear to unstick it from the manifold when I want to replace it. But the difference in diameter between the stock thermostat (38mm, or something close to that) and the more common size you find at NAPA seem to rule out easy mods to the manifold.

I've read that there are inline thermostats that you can plumb into a radiator hose, but have not had a chance to explore whether one of those would answer.

Actually, if I were able to make only one mod to the heating system, it would be to find and fit a more powerful fan. The best you can say about the single speed one is that it is 'period correct'.

Shaun Pond
1967 Lancia Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1.3
1962 Austin Healey 3000
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post #54 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 09:49 PM
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I went through the same clean out exercise on my heating system a couple of winters ago. My problem now is that I can never remember which settings on the blue and red wheels and the levers produce heat when I want it...
The red wheel is the temperature control (mnemonic: red for heat): counterclockwise for higher; clockwise for lower.
The blue wheel is the front air intake (mnemonic: blue for wind): counterclockwise for more air; clockwise for less.
The lever is the heater on-off switch (mnemonic: there are only two choices--how tough can it be?): pull towards you for heat on; push forward for heat off.

Maximum heat:
1. blue wheel fully counterclockwise
2. red wheel fully counterclockwise
3. heat lever toward you (on)
4. fan on (for all the good it does)

Maximum ventilation at outside temperature (owner's manual version):
1. blue wheel fully counterclockwise
2. red wheel centered
3. heat lever forward (off)
4. anemic fan on

Maximum ventilation at outside temperature (alternate version):
1. roll down side windows
2. open rear quarter windows
3. drive fast

Ed
1970 Lancia Fulvia 1,6 HF

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post #55 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:01 PM
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The red wheel is the temperature control (mnemonic: red for heat): counterclockwise for higher; clockwise for lower.
The blue wheel is the front air intake (mnemonic: blue for wind): counterclockwise for more air; clockwise for less.
The lever is the heater on-off switch (mnemonic: there are only two choices--how tough can it be?): pull towards you for heat on; push forward for heat off.

Maximum heat:
1. blue wheel fully counterclockwise
2. red wheel fully counterclockwise
3. heat lever toward you (on)
4. fan on (for all the good it does)

Maximum ventilation at outside temperature (owner's manual version):
1. blue wheel fully counterclockwise
2. red wheel centered
3. heat lever forward (off)
4. anemic fan on

Maximum ventilation at outside temperature (alternate version):
1. roll down side windows
2. open rear quarter windows
3. drive fast
Ed, thanks.

But just try remembering all this before you've had your coffee on a cold morning.

Shaun Pond
1967 Lancia Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1.3
1962 Austin Healey 3000
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post #56 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:13 PM
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Ed, thanks.

But just try remembering all this before you've had your coffee on a cold morning.
It's never a problem for me. On mine, the heater core has been bypassed, so there's not much point in using any of the controls. I'm stuck with the alternate version. Good thing I'm in SoCal...

Ed
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post #57 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:21 PM
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It's never a problem for me. On mine, the heater core has been bypassed, so there's not much point in using any of the controls. I stick with the alternate version. Good thing I'm in SoCal...
Living in SoCal does give you the luxury of viewing the heating system as a quaint option. If you still lived in upstate NY, I imagine you'd feel differently.

Is your heating system bypassed due to where you live, or were all HFs like that? I can't imagine running something like the Monte Carlo without some means of defogging the windscreen.

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post #58 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:49 PM
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Living in SoCal does give you the luxury of viewing the heating system as a quaint option. If you still lived in upstate NY, I imagine you'd feel differently.

Is your heating system bypassed due to where you live, or were all HFs like that? I can't imagine running something like the Monte Carlo without some means of defogging the windscreen.
Location does give me the option of not bothering to fix it any time soon (it's on my to-do list under "eventually"). Frankly, it wasn't even a problem on the TT.

Bypassing the heater core does let the engine come to temperature quicker, but it's by no means standard on HFs. If you look at period photos of the rally cars, even the Works cars with aluminum dashes had those red and blue control wheels. Though how that anemic fan ever coped with defrosting on the Monte is anyone's guess.

Ed
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post #59 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 06:15 AM
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Great graphics and entries in this thread! Thanks for all the technical and driving knowledge being shared here...it applies equally to many other FWD cars and I wish more folks would learn the ins and outs of handling characteristics by driving in poor conditions. I believe it would significantly help in reducing collisions.

Obviously, FWD, RWD and AWD each require very different driver input to maximize cornering speeds, particularly as the vehicle approaches the limits of tire adhesion such as when driving in rain or snow. Your inputs are a great source of basic handling knowledge...keep 'em coming!

Fulvias are great little cars! Have fun with yours!

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post #60 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 07:23 AM
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I went through the same clean out exercise on my heating system a couple of winters ago. My problem now is that I can never remember which settings on the blue and red wheels and the levers produce heat when I want it.

What did you have in mind as a mod to make a more conventional thermostat fit?

I'm not in love with the stock Fulvia thermostat set-up, mostly because it's such a bear to unstick it from the manifold when I want to replace it. But the difference in diameter between the stock thermostat (38mm, or something close to that) and the more common size you find at NAPA seem to rule out easy mods to the manifold.

I've read that there are inline thermostats that you can plumb into a radiator hose, but have not had a chance to explore whether one of those would answer.

Actually, if I were able to make only one mod to the heating system, it would be to find and fit a more powerful fan. The best you can say about the single speed one is that it is 'period correct'.
The inline style thermostat would be the easiest but I dont like the look too much.
Im going to look into have a water manifold modified, maybe need to cut it and weld on a new part but fix the problem once and for all.
We dont have much moisture out here so I havent really needed the fan to defrost. One friend refers to the fan out-put as "Euro dog breath"

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70 Fulvia 1.3 Rally S
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