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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-25-2019 09:43 AM
gprocket
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boccaccia View Post
Thanks for the comment - what was your solution? Another set of plugs?
Replaced the plugs and filters - runs like a champ now...
09-19-2019 01:41 PM
Boccaccia
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaparticle View Post
There have been stories of bad Bosch coils made in Mexico. A failing coil could cause your symptoms. What coil resistance is specified for your distributor?
My coil has about 1000 miles on it. It's the blue Bosch from Centerline.

My diz is a Marelli S103B. I don't know the recommended resistance.
09-19-2019 01:38 PM
Boccaccia
Quote:
Originally Posted by gprocket View Post
I know you said you've replaced the plugs twice but what you are describing is exactly what i experienced with my SPICA 2L recently. Brand new NGKs, i noticed erratic pulsing when using the timing light. You might try using the timing on each wire and see if you have a consistent pulse.

BTW, the Centerline dizzy i have uses a Pertronix module. While I've not had trouble with the dizzy i have had a number of Pertronix go bad on me....
Thanks for the comment - what was your solution? Another set of plugs?
08-29-2019 04:42 AM
andylarry Have you checked for arcing spark? You need to do this in a pitch-black environment. At night, lights off, a heavy blanket or tarp over the engine compartment. Look for arcing at coil, dizzy cap, along secondary ignition wires and their connection to the spark plugs.
08-27-2019 07:49 PM
alfaparticle There have been stories of bad Bosch coils made in Mexico. A failing coil could cause your symptoms. What coil resistance is specified for your distributor?
08-27-2019 06:05 PM
gprocket I know you said you've replaced the plugs twice but what you are describing is exactly what i experienced with my SPICA 2L recently. Brand new NGKs, i noticed erratic pulsing when using the timing light. You might try using the timing on each wire and see if you have a consistent pulse.

BTW, the Centerline dizzy i have uses a Pertronix module. While I've not had trouble with the dizzy i have had a number of Pertronix go bad on me....
08-27-2019 02:34 PM
Boccaccia Crap.
I was wrong about the distributor cap and rotor colliding. I measured the pieces with a micrometer and there is plenty of space between the top of the rotor and the cap.

Reinstalled, checked timing and the engine still runs like crap above 3500 rpm. It sounds ragged, and when I use my timing gun, the mark on the crank jumps all over the place once the revs get up.

Timing advances normally up to 3500ish, but then starts jumping around all jittery.

Plugs are new.
Wires are six years old but have less than 5k on them.
Same with the cap and rotor.
Diz is rebuilt.
Ignition system is Pertronix.
Coil is Bosch Blue and recent.
Spark is strong.
08-25-2019 08:06 PM
Roadtrip Are you sure that the rotor is oriented correctly and is fully seated on the advance weights?

CSS. For info, it anyone is unsure about the adjustment of the CSS, it should be about a quarter inch from the pump casting to the bottom of the CSS.

Microswitch. LOL. Good luck changing a microswitch in-situ.
The microswitch can easily be tested with an ordinary test light connected between the wire to the FCS and ground. Run the engine up to about 3000 rpm and snap the throttle closed. The light should come on, then go off as the engine decels through 1600-1300 rpm and recovers to idle.

Relay crank. If you need to check the relay crank, PM me and I can loan you the jig to check it and set it if necessary.
08-25-2019 01:44 PM
spiderserie4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boccaccia View Post
Here are the culprits. Rotor is hitting Cap from below.

I don't know why.
maybe mismatched rotor and cap?
or, rebuild back then wasn't so hot and there is play in the shaft?

(you say it never ran right since you got the rebuilt dizzy from centerline.....I'd have thrown it back at them, but now its too late)

there is also this (though yours is not a plex)
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/ele...nce-alert.html
08-25-2019 10:57 AM
alfaparticle
Quote:
Both rotor and cap are "Bosch"?
Marelli
08-25-2019 10:37 AM
Norseman50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boccaccia View Post
Here are the culprits. Rotor is hitting Cap from below.

I don't know why.
Both rotor and cap are "Bosch"?
08-25-2019 07:00 AM
Boccaccia Here are the culprits. Rotor is hitting Cap from below.

I don't know why.
08-25-2019 06:11 AM
Boccaccia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
Try one at a time: a different distributor, and a different TA. The old saw says 90% of fuel problems are in fact ignition. Sometimes proves to be true, sometimes not. If that's all you changed, I'd start with those two just from a troubleshooting perspective.

Andrew
Andrew wins with his general diagnosis! "The old saw says 90% of fuel problems are in fact ignition."

My distributor rotor is crashing into the distributor cap. Apparently the rotor is too high - so it is scraping the bottom of the electrodes in the cap. It's not wobbling, it's simply riding too high.

I guess I have the wrong rotor or cap...

The cap is firmly seated and secured to the plate of the diz. The cap seats firmly. There's no excessive play in the shaft.

This is a rebuilt diz that I bought from Centerline couple years ago. The car hasn't run right since I installed it.

What the heck?
08-21-2019 10:40 AM
Boccaccia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
My own experience with Sure Starts is they don't hold settings; they slip. Not a lot of experience, but what I had was not good. Like the TA, they default towards rich. So maybe that's your richness?
Andrew

Now in thinking about it, I wonder if I'm right re the way Sure Starts are sprung, and what the relaxed position is. I don't have on handy to look at.
The relaxed position on the Sure Start is fully extended. So if it slips, it's set to the engine fully warm position.
08-21-2019 10:37 AM
Boccaccia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario Romagnoli View Post
(I hope I'm remembering this correctly)

In the late 1970's, I had a '71 Spider with a Shankle Sure Start and the car had this same problem. I brought the car to the mechanic (he was a well-known senior mechanic from Alfa Romeo, Inc. in Englewood Cliffs, who had retired and started his own shop), who showed me that at full "lean" position, the Sure Start plunger did not extend as far as the plunger of a hot TA, thus the car always ran rich.

We fixed the problem by re-installing a good TA, and then re adjusting the fuel cut-off solenoid and other mechanical adjustments.
That seems worth looking at, as the car has never run properly with the Shankle installed. I made a dummy TA a while back. I will install it and see what happens.

Looks like rebuilt TA's are $385 with a $75 core fee. Ugh.

"I brought the car to the mechanic... who showed me that at full "lean" position, the Sure Start plunger did not extend as far as the plunger of a hot TA, thus the car always ran rich." I think the Sure Start extension deficit can be accommodated by adjusting the TA screw inside the SPICA. If it does not extend the full depth, seems the TA screw can be brought up to make the difference.
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