|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-25-2019 09:43 AM|
|09-19-2019 01:41 PM|
Originally Posted by alfaparticle View Post
My diz is a Marelli S103B. I don't know the recommended resistance.
|09-19-2019 01:38 PM|
Originally Posted by gprocket View Post
|08-29-2019 04:42 AM|
|andylarry||Have you checked for arcing spark? You need to do this in a pitch-black environment. At night, lights off, a heavy blanket or tarp over the engine compartment. Look for arcing at coil, dizzy cap, along secondary ignition wires and their connection to the spark plugs.|
|08-27-2019 07:49 PM|
|alfaparticle||There have been stories of bad Bosch coils made in Mexico. A failing coil could cause your symptoms. What coil resistance is specified for your distributor?|
|08-27-2019 06:05 PM|
I know you said you've replaced the plugs twice but what you are describing is exactly what i experienced with my SPICA 2L recently. Brand new NGKs, i noticed erratic pulsing when using the timing light. You might try using the timing on each wire and see if you have a consistent pulse.
BTW, the Centerline dizzy i have uses a Pertronix module. While I've not had trouble with the dizzy i have had a number of Pertronix go bad on me....
|08-27-2019 02:34 PM|
I was wrong about the distributor cap and rotor colliding. I measured the pieces with a micrometer and there is plenty of space between the top of the rotor and the cap.
Reinstalled, checked timing and the engine still runs like crap above 3500 rpm. It sounds ragged, and when I use my timing gun, the mark on the crank jumps all over the place once the revs get up.
Timing advances normally up to 3500ish, but then starts jumping around all jittery.
Plugs are new.
Wires are six years old but have less than 5k on them.
Same with the cap and rotor.
Diz is rebuilt.
Ignition system is Pertronix.
Coil is Bosch Blue and recent.
Spark is strong.
|08-25-2019 08:06 PM|
Are you sure that the rotor is oriented correctly and is fully seated on the advance weights?
CSS. For info, it anyone is unsure about the adjustment of the CSS, it should be about a quarter inch from the pump casting to the bottom of the CSS.
Microswitch. LOL. Good luck changing a microswitch in-situ.
The microswitch can easily be tested with an ordinary test light connected between the wire to the FCS and ground. Run the engine up to about 3000 rpm and snap the throttle closed. The light should come on, then go off as the engine decels through 1600-1300 rpm and recovers to idle.
Relay crank. If you need to check the relay crank, PM me and I can loan you the jig to check it and set it if necessary.
|08-25-2019 01:44 PM|
or, rebuild back then wasn't so hot and there is play in the shaft?
(you say it never ran right since you got the rebuilt dizzy from centerline.....I'd have thrown it back at them, but now its too late)
there is also this (though yours is not a plex)
|08-25-2019 10:57 AM|
|08-25-2019 10:37 AM|
|08-25-2019 07:00 AM|
Here are the culprits. Rotor is hitting Cap from below.
I don't know why.
|08-25-2019 06:11 AM|
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
My distributor rotor is crashing into the distributor cap. Apparently the rotor is too high - so it is scraping the bottom of the electrodes in the cap. It's not wobbling, it's simply riding too high.
I guess I have the wrong rotor or cap...
The cap is firmly seated and secured to the plate of the diz. The cap seats firmly. There's no excessive play in the shaft.
This is a rebuilt diz that I bought from Centerline couple years ago. The car hasn't run right since I installed it.
What the heck?
|08-21-2019 10:40 AM|
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
|08-21-2019 10:37 AM|
Originally Posted by Mario Romagnoli View Post
Looks like rebuilt TA's are $385 with a $75 core fee. Ugh.
"I brought the car to the mechanic... who showed me that at full "lean" position, the Sure Start plunger did not extend as far as the plunger of a hot TA, thus the car always ran rich." I think the Sure Start extension deficit can be accommodated by adjusting the TA screw inside the SPICA. If it does not extend the full depth, seems the TA screw can be brought up to make the difference.
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