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1K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  Rlajb 
#1 ·
I just aquired a 1985 spider graduate. At 20 years old i owned a guliette 1600. Sold it at 21 to go out to Wyoming to seek my fame and fortune. Been looking for another spider since. This wasn’t my first choice, but a choice i could afford. Car seem pretty tight. Interior and exterior excellent. Engine good. Tranny, suspect syncro in 2nd. First obstacle was clutch. Would not disengage. Pedal was low. Replaced all the hydraulics. Works fine now but pedal is about 1 inch higher than brake. Any ideas. Next, front end seems clanky over rough roads. Going to replace shocks and 1 bad bushing. I see i can buy Koni or Blistine shocks. Any advice. Only driving for pleasure. Next. What is 105, vs 115. Notice these terms are use in some parts ordering. I have been purchsing from Centerline, rock auto, and Vick auto. Any other suggestions. Thanks for your time.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the BB.

I'll try a few answers for you. But first I have to remind you of our unwritten rule regarding photos. We like photos. Thus we insist you post some! That also helps know the important details so we can give you proper advice. Details like 'what color is your Spider?'

Anyway, 2nd gear synchros tend to wear the most/first. But it is worth trying the correct oil in the transmission. The Alfa synchros need a certain amount of friction to work properly. Try RedLine 75w-90 NS (the NS is important). There are many reports of using the right oil can make a noticeable improvement. It won't repair a totally trashed synchro but it is worth trying. Another thing about the Alfa transmission - they can crunch if you are stopped and try to quickly shift into first. The trick is to move the shift lever partially into another gear (say 2nd or 3rd) then shift into 1st. This uses the other gear's synchro to stop the spinning gears and allow a quick & quiet shift into first.

The clutch pedal normally sits a little higher than the brake pedal. More worrisome is a clutch pedal that sits significantly lower than the brake pedal. In that case the weld on the pedal pivot shaft is suspect (a known weakness). I don't recall off hand if there is a bumper for the clutch pedal when it is at rest. If you can get your head down into the footwell check for any evidence of a missing rubber bumper that'd hold the pedal down a fraction of an inch.

I suspect any quality shock will work fine. I have Koni shocks in our Spider - because it came that way from the previous owner. When I bought it they were set too hard - ruined the handling. I reset to the nearly full soft - much better!

I have to let someone more knowledgeable then me explain the 105/115 meanings. I get confused by that, too.

Oh, one other thing. Find your User Control Panel and add a general location. This helps others know where you are - it can be useful info for local knowledge.
 
#3 ·
Thanks

Thanks for the great info. I will post a picture and update location. I did replace the pivot arm. just pretty impressed with myself. pulled the clevis pin thru with floral wire first time. one thing i noticed with this spider is that it's a lot tighter for my knees than the guliette. with the guliette I swear i could put the seat all the way back and not touch the pedals. I'm 6'4". thinking that maybe a smaller diameter steereing wheel might help. It's just that i love the original wood wheel. I am definitely going to replace the trans oil. is what you recommended synthetic?
 
#7 ·
With respect to gaining a little knee room, many if not all Spiders came from the factory with limiting stops at the rear of the seat rails. These can be removed and will allow the seat to move back another inch and a half or so. Do a search within the Spider forum and some threads will come up on this simple mod.

A smaller diameter wheel helps with knee clearance as well. I'm using a 350mm wood rim wheel from Centerline and I added a 1" deep spacer between the wheel and hub. These two changes help the leg/knee room hassle.
 
#8 ·
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