|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-27-2019 10:15 AM|
Boaters are the typical market for this stuff as it absorbs petroleum products out of water. Not a water absorbent however.
Briddish car owners would be a likely market!
|06-27-2019 10:11 AM|
Originally Posted by John533i View Post
Just this week I managed to drop a whole sump’s worth of oil on my garage floor ☹️
|06-26-2019 11:05 PM|
Here is another issue for you to consider, (I've had lots of cars with lots of wonderful issues over the last 45 years) it was a Lancia Beta coupe beautiful car, but ran hot and just kept climbing slowly. I took the radiator to a repair shop, who pulled the tanks and cleaned the core with a special acid cleanser, then hot blasted the cores and then soldered the tanks back on. Took the car out for a run and still the same problem, drove me nuts. I was telling a mate of mine about it and he said i needed a new radiator , I said B U L L S H I T but he insisted, so much so, he gave me a spare radiator he had to try. Needless to say he was 100% correct. Apparently crud builds up in the core and over time it welds itself to the inside of the core till, it gets to a stage where the heat from the motor won't transfer to the fins attached to the core flutes........ Old cars who'd have em......Duh
P.S. As well as paying for the new radiator I had to pay the $50.00 bet I lost.
|06-26-2019 10:35 PM|
My electric fan behaves like yours does, unless I'm moving. If we had one of those smaller, dual fan setups, maybe it would drop faster when not moving? Or bigger fans, who knows. Mine is doing a great job in 90deg weather; I'm pretty happy with it.
My last hot temp issue was solved by checking the actual level in the radiator after I had removed the CTS and a bunch drained out. I didn't think about checking it, and that pigmat sure does a great job of soaking lots of coolant up! First 90+ deg day it started climbing past 180, I ended up finding out that coolant was really low. Duh.
My TR6 has a thermal issue almost like you describe. Once the temp reaches a certain point I better be moving forwards or she keep creeping up. I even used a thermostat that opens earlier. Need to swap out the original radiator for peace of mind this year...
|06-25-2019 10:26 AM|
No, before, but I expect the jets are immaterial to my temperature issues.
I know, this is not how they taught us to do it in science class...
|06-25-2019 09:55 AM|
|65Sprint||Very good news regarding the temperature. Did you change to the 140 main jets after you did your recent temperature test drives?|
|06-25-2019 08:26 AM|
Originally Posted by PSk View Post
As an aside, I can report that the car is much happier on 140 main jets now. It pulls very cleanly now from low revs even when cold, which it certainly didn’t do before, and it seems to have more power overall.
Still needs a proper shakedown run on a hot day, so there will be at least one more update...
|06-21-2019 01:07 PM|
Re fan on all the time, I think it would be better to get a sensor that triggers at a lower temperature.
|06-21-2019 09:06 AM|
This problem appears to be solved, but I won't know for certain until we get a hot day.
I followed Pete's instructions on how to fill the cooling system. Now, on the highway, the temp stays steady around 185F. As it should.
The fan still has me confused though. When it comes on, the temperature drops very, very slowly. If I jumper the temp sensor so the fan is on all the time, the temp stays down.
So it seems to me that the fan is effective at maintaining a temperature, but not very effective at lowering the temperature. I assume that's because my rad is old.
I'm thinking about wiring up the fan so it's just on all the time. I know that's just a band aid until I eventually get a new rad. Any dire warnings against doing that?
|06-13-2019 10:20 AM|
Thanks for the additional insights. In response to your questions:
I will report back on my progress.
|06-13-2019 10:15 AM|
|65Sprint||From the latest plug pictures, the two left plugs still look lean, maybe leaner than in the first set of pictures. I remain skeptical that lean mixtures are the problem. I would follow Pete's procedure and confirm there isn't an air bubble in the cooling system. Belts and suspenders... bleed the system at the water pump and at the intake manifold as well as leaving the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens. When you have exhausted other possibilities, then maybe focus more on the Dellortos. Your 132 main jets are small and I have not found any useful information on the .12 emulsion tubes. Does that matter wrt elevated engine temperature? No one can really know without experimenting with new parts and/or using a wide-band AFR meter.|
|06-13-2019 06:43 AM|
|stradguy93||I have a similar cooling setup and it works fine. New radiator from Vicks Autosports, coolant temp sensor in the lower radiator hose (180 on, 165 off), and a non shrouded 12" electric fan rated at 1750 CFM max wired inline with the original A/C pusher fan. Car runs right at 190 on the interstate and 180 in stop and go no matter what. Running a 50/50 coolant mix.|
|06-12-2019 10:20 PM|
Originally Posted by 65Sprint View Post
DHLA40H (emissions model)
|06-12-2019 05:09 PM|
I agree with Chas. The colour of brand new plugs after only 500miles is not going to determine why the cooling system is running hot, it’s a side issue (distraction).
It really feels like the system isn’t bled properly.
Take it for a fast Italian tune up with the heater on full
Redo the bleed process that PSK wrote up (it’s a good’un)
Does this model have a heater tap?
I’m empathetic to your issue, but on the positive, there is always one thing that doesn’t run right on an Alfa (new or old) - so your car is kinda good
(I’m chasing a rough idle in a 105 and a 1750tbi)
|06-12-2019 05:04 PM|
|Chas H||I use a jewelers loupe to examine plugs; can't tell much from this distance. But I really don't think the mixture strength is the cause of your concern.|
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