|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-06-2019 08:35 AM|
Originally Posted by 180OUT View Post
The new one went in with plenty of Never-Seize applied...
|05-06-2019 08:20 AM|
|180OUT||A giant sized pair of channel-lock pliers (giving you plenty of leverage) and a Harbor Freight heat gun is also a reasonably good way of loosening a stuck threaded thermostat. My '72 Super came from the factory with a threaded, screw-in, thermostat.|
|05-06-2019 05:14 AM|
Two things - First, how I got the old thermostat out - Picture #1
Second, @kengta - you were right!! The 41mm thermostat has exactly the same thread as the 45mm. Further, although the 45mm has seemingly slightly larger inlet cutouts, the thermal slug is SMALLER in diameter - making it most likely exactly the same coolant flow...
|05-02-2019 07:08 AM|
I'd have to locate a manifold for a decent price to swap. The one that's on there works fine except for the thermostat (now).
|05-02-2019 07:02 AM|
Here's a couple of measurements - the 40mm screw-in style, and a later model drop in thermostat. I happen to have both...
The tops of the threads on the brass screw-in are just a bit under 39mm, and the diameter of the drop in is about 54mm
The 45mm thermostat is still in place - a 45mm socket arrives today.
|05-01-2019 11:09 AM|
|iachella||I have the BMW thermostat. It is 32mm on each port. That is 1 1/4 in. Having a big bypass port is odd, but not impossible. I used a 1 in. hose and stretched it over working the parts on a bench. Whenever I remove it to access parts of the car, I leave this hose on the part. You could use a reducer pipe, but I didn't want two more hose clamps.|
|05-01-2019 10:38 AM|
|05-01-2019 10:10 AM|
Drop in manifold needs to be Euro style that supported carbs. I've never had a screw in type that didn't come out that hard. It's usually best to remove from engine if too difficult. Brass threads and aluminum usually do not seize.. they don't need to be torqued when put in, just firmly snug. It has nowhere to go and it is surrounded by hose and clamps.
|05-01-2019 07:51 AM|
If I fracture the current manifold trying to get the old thermostat out, I'll definitely change the manifold.
|05-01-2019 07:32 AM|
In RJ's thread about putting the Montreal engine in the spider, he had pictures there of using motorcycle thermostat housings just in the coolant hoses. I think he said they were from a Yamaha R1, looked like a reasonable solution.
Found it, if I do this right, this will be a link to the post. Otherwise it is post 184 on page 13.
|05-01-2019 07:07 AM|
Those screw-in thermostats can get permanently corroded into the manifold. Another reason to just get a 1750-style Weber manifold, the drop-in thermostat that fits it and meets your temperature requirements, and not bother trying to remove the old screw-in 'stat.
Is your car a 2 liter? And if so, does it still have a 3-port water pump with the bypass port blocked off? If so, you will also need the bypass hose for a carbureted car. But if it has a 2-port water pump, you'll either have to block the bypass port under the thermostat on your new 1750 manifold (not my recommendation), or install a 3-port water pump & bypass hose (better solution, but more work).
|05-01-2019 06:03 AM|
Originally Posted by kengta View Post
All - I hear you about manifold replacement, and if I do it, that approach has great benefit for my grandkids when they inherit the car (long after I'm dead ) - fewer non-Alfa parts to wonder about.
I see a note about using a cooler-actuating thermostat (70 C) on a twin-spark to get more HP, and I wonder what folks have found on a single spark dome head 2LTR?? Any benefit to using a cooler thermostat? (I only run my Spider in warm weather anyhow!)
|04-30-2019 07:18 PM|
|180OUT||Classic Alfa in the UK keep an extensive store of second-hand parts, including intake manifolds (both types). I purchased a drop-in Weber manifold from them a few years ago. I thought the purchase price was very reasonable. Keep in mind that the European 4 cylinder Alfa used carbs for a much longer time than the US version Alfas.|
|04-30-2019 06:18 PM|
Originally Posted by kengta View Post
Btw. I'm with Jay's suggestion. Get a carb manifold with drop in thermo. This type started with 1750. The screw in type was used on 1600 and 1300 engines. You don't say but I'm guessing you have 2 ltr 76 spider converted to carbs.
|04-30-2019 05:02 PM|
Here's the carb conversion kit that Centerline sells; I know you don't need all these parts, but check out the type of manifold they supply:
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|