|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-18-2019 12:40 PM|
6mm bolts with a number 10 spanner.
The straight edge of the shield bolts onto the vertical body flange alongside the pedal box in the drivers side front wheel well. The body of the shield bolts to the metal bracket which is in turn bolted to the nose of the pedal box
Not all pedal boxes are drilled for the little metal bracket
You basically feed it in between the master cylinder and the down pipes and wiggle and bend it into a suitable shape to curve around the pipes
|03-15-2019 05:50 PM|
Originally Posted by jburning17 View Post
I don't have installed parts on a car photos yet, but there are threaded nuts on my 101's bracket to attach the heat shield to it. The peddle box holes are not threaded to receive that bracket, it will need nuts, washers and bolts. Looks like 10mm bolts for it.
Not wanting to give out misinformation, if I'm wrong hopefully someone will chime in to correct or affirm the direction/placement of this bracket, but it lined up for me. I'm just getting started on my first reassembly, so I'm still sorting out where parts go since I didn't take this Spider apart and I don't have a spare original car to help out. I've found not all parts like this are shown in my original parts book, or shop manual sometimes. Hopefully these help.
|03-11-2019 08:06 PM|
Rather than start a new thread, I thought that it would make for better organization to add to this one.
I am going to fit a heat shield from Alfastop to a 750 normale. I could use some picture and information about how the horseshoe bracket should fit to the pedal box. Are there threaded holes in the pedal box or are there through bolts?
|02-17-2019 01:11 AM|
Thanks for the pattern and photos
Much appreciated, Mick
|02-16-2019 07:04 PM|
Originally Posted by OMWattsy View Post
|02-16-2019 05:56 PM|
used Zircoflex III for shield. flexible yet self supporting and is a single product unlike having to treat aluminium with heat absorbing additions
|02-16-2019 05:50 PM|
found that Zircoflex III was ideal. flexible yet self supporting. also it is a single material unlike aluminium with heat resistant additional coatings
|02-16-2019 11:04 AM|
I made this pattern from a friend's Giulia Spider for my car along with material and fabrication suggestions from Bill Gillham. I cut old manila file folders to 8.5x11 inches and printed them out on the inkjet printer. Very easy to cut out of aluminum sheet. I may or may not pinch in heat barrier fabric.
1962 Giulia Spider
|02-15-2019 09:04 PM|
My car was missing the shield.
Can someone post some photos, taken in various directions, of what the shield looks like.
I'll then fabricate one
|02-13-2019 09:10 PM|
Originally Posted by alfajohn View Post
I pulled the heat shield off the car and double bagged it. Iíll make a new one out of alloy sheet.
I did use a face mask and gloves as a precaution but the matting is intact.
I just feel if you attempt to remove the asbestos from the heat shield there is a greater chance of spreading asbestos everywhere.
Even if you pressure blast it off, it will dry out and be everywhere. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
Thanks for the advice
|02-12-2019 04:18 PM|
I know you nsaidyou wont remove it yourself, but if you do wear a face mask, eye protection, gloves, hat, and after you finish put your clothing and hat in the washer by them self and shower and wash your hair
and you should be ok
|02-12-2019 10:11 AM|
The original I copied was a little under 0.8mm, I've use the same or slightly thinner. I found thicker sheet too difficult to bend around the pipes and still make sure that it's not touching the branches.
I haven't tried stainless yet, will do that on the next one
|02-11-2019 12:07 PM|
Originally Posted by AlfistiSA View Post
I think Iíll remake as I donít want to go near the old shield then.
What thickness alloy did you use?
Thanks in advance
|02-11-2019 11:52 AM|
Unless it was in ratty condition .. I would use it as is.
If you find you really must remove it, a hot pressure washer jet should peel it off without difficulty.
DO NOT attempt to sand or grind it off.
It may be easier to simply duplicate it.
I use stainless steel for re-pops .. it survives better than the aluminum original.
|02-11-2019 11:50 AM|
Yes as the others have said, the original material is an asbestos woven mat - if it is intact and not powdering, then it's about as stable & inert as it's likely to get - years of dirt, oil & grime helps to bind it together. If you do clean it, then try just spraying a degreaser onto the mat & lightly washing it while wearing a face mask. Asbestos is nasty stuff if reduced to powder form and spread about in the air where you are breathing. In this matting & old roof sheets etc, it's basically inert until you start fiddling with it. Once you start scratching at the matting you will break down the fibers and release powdered asbestos into the air - this is illegal in your country & mine.... the laws and costs involved in disposing of asbestos are onerous, this is a case of "if it is't broken, then don't fix it" Please do take all precautions around it anyway.
I remake these from aluminium sheeting & use a modern self adhesive heat reflective & protective matting on the rear which is then further held into position by crimping over the edges. Yes it's got quite an S curve, it needs this to get around the exhaust branches, but when new the aluminium was quite soft so easily bent into shape by hand. 60 years later it's work hardened due to heat & vibration so not so easy to bend, whereas the new ones are soft and bend really easily. They will work harden over time.
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