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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 09:34 AM
horsewidower Hmmmm:
Yesterday 01:47 PM
horsewidower I'll definitely check the distributor leads, they've been hinky since day one. I'll also go through rest of the ignition wiring to see if anything has gotten loose.

I picked up the hint on the air hose on a different thread I was reading, although they described the problem as "bucking", which is more severe than this issue. This issue is more like ignition dropping out for a moment. Much like Bib describes above, although not dying.

I picked up a Blackstone sample bottle; I'm going to have the oil analyzed. Talking to the PO, he substituted this engine for whatever reason. For $30 bucks I can get a window into its health.
Yesterday 01:20 PM
bibendum59 My gtv6 had a bad connection in the wiring that connects to the distributor. My driveway had a small bump and sometimes when I would pull into the driveway I'd hit the bump and the car would sputter and die.

It never seemed to happen on the open road, just when arriving at home (which seems like a very considerate place for the car to choose to have a problem).
Yesterday 12:39 PM
alfaloco I think I recall you checking and cleaning the AFM connector, right? And what about the coil and coil primary lead? The engine temp sensor at the front? That's a critical item for the ECU. The distributor wire leads and connector??
Yesterday 12:28 PM
NMMilano Shoe goo works wonders on the Plenum air hose although I don’t think that’s your problem. It would have to a huge crack.
Yesterday 12:18 PM
horsewidower Drove the car to work all 5 days last week. The last couple of days, it seemed to cut out when I hit a particularly nasty bump. It would cure itself as things got warmer.

I can think of two potential issues:

1. An ignition problem that is cured by heating up. Perhaps a connection grows just enough.
2. The induction air hose from the air flow meter to the plenum has a crack that seals as it grows from heat.

Drove it this morning, no problem. Intermittent issues are a PITA to trouble shoot.

Friday I had a great day driving through the Sacramento delta to pick up some parts. Nice curvy roads next to the Sacramento River. Kept the heat down, and scratched the curvy road itch.
08-16-2019 10:18 AM
Del "I was thinking about trying 15-40 synthetic. What do I have to lose? I've got 4 other engines"

Well, since the coolant thermostat basically regulates the engine temperature to the same reasonable range (provided the engine doesn't have an existing overheating problem), whether the ambient air temperatures are high or low, I wouldn't bother to change to something different. I've used either 20W-50 or 15W-50, in my 91S for instance, for decades, and the oil pressure is still as new it seems, ~30 psi hot idle, ~55 psi hot cruise (~3000 rpm). Same for the other V6 engines in the stable.

I don't know which 20W-50 you use, but if one is worried about cam/flat tappet wear (some do, some do not), pay attention to the zinc additive content percentage. Some 20W-50 oils are not what they were, zinc content-wise, or don't have desirable amounts of detergents for daily use, such as VR1. I've also read that very high percentages of zinc additives, >~1400? ppm, can also possibly cause cam/flat tappet damage, ~1200 ppm seemingly the desirable value.

Certainly your choice, there being a few proper lubes out there to keep Alfa owners happy.

Just some thoughts.

Very pleased the GTV6 is giving you much driving pleasure. I enjoyed my 86, until I drove the 91S for the first time, lol.
08-15-2019 09:00 PM
Jim G
Quote:
Originally Posted by horsewidower View Post

Where is the normal take up point on the clutch with these things? Mine is right at the top. I'm thinking a clutch is in my near future, and maybe it's part of the problem with the shifting.
It depends on whether you have the original twin disc clutch or the later single disc Milano clutch in it.

They fail 2 ways. They either start slipping or the pressure plate becomes sprung and the pedal gets really hard to push in and you start breaking pivot balls.
08-15-2019 08:30 PM
horsewidower
Quote:
Originally Posted by Del View Post
I suggest the Mobil 1 15-50 oil. Proper for these engines. I buy it in the big containers off of eBay (free shipping) for about $35 or so. Not a bad deal.

You might think about the 75w-90 NS gear oil for the transmission as recommended by Alfar7, Richard Jemison.
I changed to the 75w-90 NS when I got it back on the road. I just think the synchros are used up.

I was thinking about trying 15-40 synthetic. What do I have to lose? I've got 4 other engines. LOL

It currently has 20w-50.

Where is the normal take up point on the clutch with these things? Mine is right at the top. I'm thinking a clutch is in my near future, and maybe it's part of the problem with the shifting.

Last couple of days have been 120 mile days in the heat. I'm getting about 22mpg in very mixed driving.
08-15-2019 08:18 PM
Del I suggest the Mobil 1 15-50 oil. Proper for these engines. I buy it in the big containers off of eBay (free shipping) for about $35 or so. Not a bad deal.

You might think about the 75w-90 NS gear oil for the transmission as recommended by Alfar7, Richard Jemison.
08-15-2019 04:50 PM
horsewidower
1984 Maratona "Ran when parked..."

It’s been hot, mind numbingly, shirt soaking hot. So hot my cell phone’s tongue hangs out and it refuses to work. And yet...the V6 is loving it. The engine just sings. Coolant stays between 175 to 180. And it just zings. Makes me think that for normal temperatures that a bit thinner oil might be warranted.

The transmission, on the other hand is a bit cranky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
08-11-2019 06:20 PM
Del The Alfa of Tacoma shop, and indeed every shop that Carlo had, was always so clean that you could almost eat off the floor. Surely your shop is almost as nice? I mean, just how dirty can horses make a place anyway?
08-11-2019 05:26 PM
horsewidower I've never made it a secret that electrical is probably my weakest skill set.

I have a fire mechanic friend who knows his stuff. Took him about 2 minutes max to diagnosis the driver's side window problem. Main ground to the switch is loose somewhere. He showed me that it had been scotched locked to the other switch's ground. We fixed it and now I can roll both windows down...just not at the same time as I have to get another working switch. I'll clean the non-working one I have and hope that it wakes up.

Also gave it a clean-up. Looks much better without dust all over it, a natural hazard of living at a place with a horse arena.
08-10-2019 12:41 AM
PSk "I'm not racing anyone", amen. Why can't some get this re road cars?
Pete
08-09-2019 09:59 PM
Del "By day four, the crunching first to second and second to third shifts can be mastered"

Yes, practice the patented Alfa 'hesitation' shift, usually needed only from 1st to 2nd, and maybe 3rd on cold days in these older Alfas. Learned that style of shifting many years ago from Carlo, and it's never failed as I use it, even now with the 164s which don't need it. Even the Milano doesn't really need it. Of course, if the transmission has been thoroughly abused and damaged by the dread PO, well, sometimes almost nothing helps except a rebuild, alas.

I still never speed shift in the lower gears, one reason I don't care about the super shifting speed of the new automatic tranny. I'm not racing anyone, just enjoying the sound and physical interaction of driving an Alfa.
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