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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 04:43 PM
horsewidower Abruptly cut out three times on the way home. Definitely ignition as you can smell unburnt fuel as it just as abruptly cuts back in. Took the slow lane all the way, just in case I needed to turn out.

I'll clean all the connections and test wiring this weekend. Taking the Acura tomorrow. Del, I'll definitely look at that.
Yesterday 03:28 PM
Del My 86 GTV6 would every once in a long while suddenly have the engine die. Turns out the multiwire plug to the AFM didn't quite match up, and so was always slightly ajar when connected, causing it to lose contact at weird times.
Yesterday 03:12 PM
horsewidower Pete, the one thing this this car has in abundance is "fubar'd" wiring. At least the ignition circuit is generally well defined. So I just need to do a rigorous inspection.

I'll probably go out there and find out I didn't get the connection together securely, or that I didn't tighten the nut well enough.
Yesterday 02:23 PM
PSk Back when I was a teenager my father's garage had a 280Z Datsun dropped in because an auto-electrician had given up trying to resolve a fault. This fault was random and would just stop the car. My job was the test driver ... lots of fun but this was before mobile phones and we had no idea when and where it was going to cut out, so lots of walking back to the shop.

Eventually we worked out that acceleration or braking could cause the issue, and low and behold around the water pump area we found a wire that had a small bit of bare wire showing and if and when it touched the engine block or water pump the engine would stop. Took days to find but a simple fix in the end.

I wonder if you have something like this, due to an old wire somewhere?
Pete
Yesterday 12:23 PM
chairmankaga
Quote:
Originally Posted by bibendum59 View Post
My gtv6 had a bad connection in the wiring that connects to the distributor. My driveway had a small bump and sometimes when I would pull into the driveway I'd hit the bump and the car would sputter and die.

It never seemed to happen on the open road, just when arriving at home (which seems like a very considerate place for the car to choose to have a problem).
Mine would die in hard left turns, but it was a bad connection in the ignition switch.

\_(ツ)_/
Yesterday 11:16 AM
horsewidower Well, bummer. I though I had that problem whipped when I found the torn up connector. It ran great last night, and for 20 miles this morning before reappearing about a mile from work.

Crossing my fingers for making it home.

Bob
08-21-2019 09:34 AM
horsewidower Hmmmm:
08-20-2019 01:47 PM
horsewidower I'll definitely check the distributor leads, they've been hinky since day one. I'll also go through rest of the ignition wiring to see if anything has gotten loose.

I picked up the hint on the air hose on a different thread I was reading, although they described the problem as "bucking", which is more severe than this issue. This issue is more like ignition dropping out for a moment. Much like Bib describes above, although not dying.

I picked up a Blackstone sample bottle; I'm going to have the oil analyzed. Talking to the PO, he substituted this engine for whatever reason. For $30 bucks I can get a window into its health.
08-20-2019 01:20 PM
bibendum59 My gtv6 had a bad connection in the wiring that connects to the distributor. My driveway had a small bump and sometimes when I would pull into the driveway I'd hit the bump and the car would sputter and die.

It never seemed to happen on the open road, just when arriving at home (which seems like a very considerate place for the car to choose to have a problem).
08-20-2019 12:39 PM
alfaloco I think I recall you checking and cleaning the AFM connector, right? And what about the coil and coil primary lead? The engine temp sensor at the front? That's a critical item for the ECU. The distributor wire leads and connector??
08-20-2019 12:28 PM
NMMilano Shoe goo works wonders on the Plenum air hose although I don’t think that’s your problem. It would have to a huge crack.
08-20-2019 12:18 PM
horsewidower Drove the car to work all 5 days last week. The last couple of days, it seemed to cut out when I hit a particularly nasty bump. It would cure itself as things got warmer.

I can think of two potential issues:

1. An ignition problem that is cured by heating up. Perhaps a connection grows just enough.
2. The induction air hose from the air flow meter to the plenum has a crack that seals as it grows from heat.

Drove it this morning, no problem. Intermittent issues are a PITA to trouble shoot.

Friday I had a great day driving through the Sacramento delta to pick up some parts. Nice curvy roads next to the Sacramento River. Kept the heat down, and scratched the curvy road itch.
08-16-2019 10:18 AM
Del "I was thinking about trying 15-40 synthetic. What do I have to lose? I've got 4 other engines"

Well, since the coolant thermostat basically regulates the engine temperature to the same reasonable range (provided the engine doesn't have an existing overheating problem), whether the ambient air temperatures are high or low, I wouldn't bother to change to something different. I've used either 20W-50 or 15W-50, in my 91S for instance, for decades, and the oil pressure is still as new it seems, ~30 psi hot idle, ~55 psi hot cruise (~3000 rpm). Same for the other V6 engines in the stable.

I don't know which 20W-50 you use, but if one is worried about cam/flat tappet wear (some do, some do not), pay attention to the zinc additive content percentage. Some 20W-50 oils are not what they were, zinc content-wise, or don't have desirable amounts of detergents for daily use, such as VR1. I've also read that very high percentages of zinc additives, >~1400? ppm, can also possibly cause cam/flat tappet damage, ~1200 ppm seemingly the desirable value.

Certainly your choice, there being a few proper lubes out there to keep Alfa owners happy.

Just some thoughts.

Very pleased the GTV6 is giving you much driving pleasure. I enjoyed my 86, until I drove the 91S for the first time, lol.
08-15-2019 09:00 PM
Jim G
Quote:
Originally Posted by horsewidower View Post

Where is the normal take up point on the clutch with these things? Mine is right at the top. I'm thinking a clutch is in my near future, and maybe it's part of the problem with the shifting.
It depends on whether you have the original twin disc clutch or the later single disc Milano clutch in it.

They fail 2 ways. They either start slipping or the pressure plate becomes sprung and the pedal gets really hard to push in and you start breaking pivot balls.
08-15-2019 08:30 PM
horsewidower
Quote:
Originally Posted by Del View Post
I suggest the Mobil 1 15-50 oil. Proper for these engines. I buy it in the big containers off of eBay (free shipping) for about $35 or so. Not a bad deal.

You might think about the 75w-90 NS gear oil for the transmission as recommended by Alfar7, Richard Jemison.
I changed to the 75w-90 NS when I got it back on the road. I just think the synchros are used up.

I was thinking about trying 15-40 synthetic. What do I have to lose? I've got 4 other engines. LOL

It currently has 20w-50.

Where is the normal take up point on the clutch with these things? Mine is right at the top. I'm thinking a clutch is in my near future, and maybe it's part of the problem with the shifting.

Last couple of days have been 120 mile days in the heat. I'm getting about 22mpg in very mixed driving.
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