|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 02:00 PM|
|Alfasteve91||Hi Bob - thanks for the reply - totally get that - much integrity. I'll watch with interest as you document that construction. Keep up the awesome threads -|
|Today 01:10 PM|
Originally Posted by Alfasteve91 View Post
I'll probably document the building process for the mounting here. I'm not in the business of selling aftermarket parts or the liability associated with it. I don't mind risking my life, yours...not so much. I hope you understand.
|Today 12:03 PM|
|Alfasteve91||Nice... thanks! Did you get both R&L seats? Also, wanna fab up another set of mounting plates and Iíll pay you for them? 76 Alfetta... I think mounting points are same. PM me if you wanna discuss...|
|Today 11:00 AM|
Originally Posted by Alfasteve91 View Post
Great in the shoulder area, tight in the thigh bolsters (a nice way of saying I need to lose weight...). Which they should be. I haven't mounted them, yet, as I have to do some additional work that requires removing the seats. I purchased the sliders, which are SPARCO branded (Sparco and OMP are manufactured by the same company) but I have to fab a mounting plate, as they do not have one for the GTV6-Alfetta. I did not purchase the "Style" series as I don't need a submarine strap/racing harness. I like the breathable fabric.
|Today 09:37 AM|
Hi... just catching up on this killer thread... can you tell me about the OMP seats? Model number and features? I need to get a set of recliners for my Alfetta and have been looking. Watching the bb for similar threads but hereís someone with real purchase experience!
|Today 05:58 AM|
|alfaloco||HOT D*MN! Let there be LIGHT!|
|Yesterday 09:20 PM|
|horsewidower||This is for you, Dave:|
|Yesterday 09:06 PM|
That's what I did on my Spider injector hoses. I just snipped off the old ones, but I did use a soldering iron to burn through and peel the hose ends off the barbs. It's true, you don't want to gouge a leak path into the aluminum barb with a steel Xacto blade!
And Bob-- I'm rejoicing with you man, on that electrical success on your tail lights. Those little finger contacts on the PCB relax, thereby increasing resistance, and bingo you got no lights. I always got a big kick out of finding and correcting these electrical gremlins, I guess because the results are so satisfying!
|Yesterday 09:10 AM|
The hard part is over. I know the factory recommends the “welder” method but it’s crap. Cutting the slits like you did is the way to go.
It’s just as much a pain on Fiats. I’ve only worked on 35 year old Bosch systems and they were all a PITA.
My son just bought a first gen 4Runner so hopefully according to your experience it will be much easier with the Nippondenso right?
|Yesterday 08:21 AM|
Originally Posted by alfaparticle View Post
|Yesterday 06:55 AM|
|alfaparticle||You think that was hard, just wait until you try to replace the fuel rail and align six injectors that don't want to be aligned with holes in the head, without damaging the brittle plastic collars.|
|10-19-2019 10:29 PM|
The other GTV6 item I worked on, in order to rest my back from peering over the hatch opening, was trying to get fuel injectors ready to send off to RC engineering.
I don't know that I've ever dealt with a crappier fuel injector arrangement. I've worked on a bunch of fuel injected cars, and these are a PITA!!! Trying to get 35 year old hoses off these fuel rails and injectors is a trial. I tried the "melt off the hoses" with a "welder" (which is a soldering iron) and it was taking FOREVER. Eventually, I just decided to cut the injectors off the rails at the middle of the hose between the barb from the rail and barb from the hose. I removed the snap ring, seal and mounting ring and then tried to "melt" those hose remnants...all it did was give me a headache from breathing noxious fumes. Eventually, I cut several slits in the hose remnants and then use a special Crescent set of little bitty pliers to essentially peal the hose off the injector barb. If anyone has a better way, I'm all ears.
|10-19-2019 10:15 PM|
Spent way too much time trying to figure out why the right side brake light doesn't come on...the Borg were wrong, resistance is everything. Because everything is daisy chained together, each corroded, deteriorated link adds up to not getting any juice to the right side. When using the power probe to light up the right side lights (which bypasses all the stock wiring) everything worked fine. I thought the power wire from the left side lights must have a break in it...not so fast. When I used the power probe straight to the linked wire at the left side, things would come on on the right side. Huh??? So I went through and started cleaning all the boards and linkages...and found the initial connector's (to the far left, if you've done this dance you know what I'm talking about) power wire had a corroded, blackened connection to the circuit board. I'm mildly proud of myself in that I could track this down (Thank YOU, DAVE). Of course by the time I thought I had it figured out, the battery was starting to flatten out, so it's on the charger.
|10-12-2019 09:45 PM|
|cda951||Remember to also send the cold start injector to RC, and get a new seal for it.|
|10-12-2019 06:43 PM|
|alfaparticle||I think that there is an idle control device in that box of parts that you just bought from me. You can play with O-rings off line.|
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