Alfa Romeo Forums banner

A French Blue '69 GTV Restoration

878K views 2K replies 203 participants last post by  1750GT 
#1 · (Edited)
I’ve been meaning to post this thread for the longest time…so here goes. Last year (while surfing the net) I came across the ALFABB and the fond memories that were resurrected of my previous GTVs, made me decide to get back into one again.. (after about an 18 year abscence). Initially I thought to limit my search to local cars only. A few GTVs were available and after checking them out and driving them I realized that I wasn’t going to be happy spending maybe $ 6-8 K on a rusty GTV with worn out interior, botched up wiring, unknown mechanical condition and…and…and…If I was going to spend over $10K on an +30year old car….I might as well look for a project car from southern (salt free) states which (hopefully) would be relatively rust free (in the key critical areas at least) and which I was going to restore in as pristine a condition as my abilities (and budget) would allow. In my younger days I had restored a ‘71 FIAT 124 Sports Coupe and then a ‘72 1300 GT Junior with very limited budget …this time around I feel will be much more enjoyable.

My search ended last February after negotiating for a 1969 US Series 1750 GTV in Alfa color AR342 (French Blue)…the PO had convinced me to buy this in lieu of his other ‘69 ocra yellow GTV..and since I was only looking at photos I figured he probably knew better. I had the car shipped from the southwest to Buffalo and then drove down and trailored it back home across the border, about an hour’s drive away. I will be posting photos of the work as it progresses. For starters….these are the first pictures……

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Classic car Coupé
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Classic car Hood


Automotive piston Auto part Metal
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Classic car Coupé
 
See less See more
4
#1,386 ·
I believe that mistery bracket may be used on the spider. There is no way that it can fit between the lever assembly and the dash....so moving ahead with the dashboard installation....this is what the final fuse boxes and the hazard switch re-arrangement looks like. Everything is in plain sight and accessible without having to crawl underneath the dash to get at the fuses.:smile2:
 

Attachments

#1,388 ·
I don't think the dash itself would be strong enough not to eventually fail without the reinforcement bracket.

Plus surely there is a cover piece missing Rossano that goes around the levers and is attached via the 4 screws, thus the dash is sandwiched, as the hole/opening looks a little unfinished as it is. BTW why are you not fitting the choke lever?
Pete
 
#1,389 ·
I don't think the dash itself would be strong enough not to eventually fail without the reinforcement bracket.
Plus surely there is a cover piece missing Rossano that goes around the levers and is attached via the 4 screws, thus the dash is sandwiched, as the hole/opening looks a little unfinished as it is. BTW why are you not fitting the choke lever?
Pete
The steel sub frame of the dash should be strong enough I feel to support the lever assembly. I do wish there was a cover plate though....but I do not recall removing one from the original dash and I see none called out in the parts manual. Therein is the mystery of that sheet metal flanged bracket which will not fit at this location. The Spica system does not use the Choke lever....it has a built-in cold start solenoid instead.

Sorry, Rossano, that bracket is not for a Spider. It might be for a 71 model year GTV though.
If someone has a photo showing this piece installed on a GTV that should resolve this mystery....but for now I'm moving on with finishing off the rest of the dash installation.

BTW ...I'm installing a 1300 GT junior dash that I picked up years ago....it's not perfect, but the reproduction dashes (2 of them) that I picked up had to be returned due to poor fit and/or quality. In all....those cost me approximately $500 on shipping, duties & taxes that I have no way of reclaiming....so my advice to those considering a reproduction dash is to not bother. Look for a good original one instead.
 
#1,390 ·
Rossano,

'Raising Junior' is having door closing issues after replacing chassis rails and the sill/rocker pieces, potentially similar to what I had that you helped solve. I'm trying to help him confirm the clearances between the door and the chassis rails/sill/rockers but I of course cannot locate those wonderfully useful sketches you sent me, plus a decent photo of a closed door from the inside with the SS trim and seal installed.

Do you have such a photo that you could post in his thread?: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/7994409-post45.html

Heck if you could happen upon those wonderful sketches that would be amazing, but that was like 4 years ago I think. I'm sure I have the print outs still but they will be in one of the many storage boxes I have since the move back to NZ.

Keep up your amazing work :) ... a benchmark restoration!
Pete
 
#1,400 ·
Progress report (no pics)...

so I installed all the gauges, the dashboard lights, headlights and fog lights and have got them all working...finally! I won't say it was straightforward because it wasn't! Lots of trouble shooting required with the relays, switches, grounds, courtesy lights etc. and lots of disassembly and re-assembly to get them right. One thing I noted though is that the FOG lights don't seem to turn on any dashboard mounted indicator light when switched on (such as what the high/low beam lights have)......is this correct?
 
#1,402 ·
I managed to find an 18" piece of braided rubber hose that I lost track and was searching high and low for a while now. It's one that Papajam provided to me years ago at the time when I purchased one of his rebuilt MC's.

Tire



I've seen similar products on ebay...but just not this exact material spec. I don't know exactly what the rubber is...but since it came from Papajam...I know it must be correct for the brake reservoir hoses. With that I was finally able to reconnect all the new hydraulic reservoirs to the new brake lines.......:smile2:

Fuel line Electrical wiring Auto part Engine Wire
 
#1,404 ·
ok. Getting really close now. Half the bb is going to want to attend the starting ceremony.

What's left, anyway? I can remember when I was close to the end on my Jr. Z build I had been spending so much time zooming in on details that I nearly forgot that I was working on a car!

cheers,
Brian
 
  • Like
Reactions: jthames
#1,405 ·
ok. Getting really close now. Half the bb is going to want to attend the starting ceremony.
What's left, anyway? I can remember when I was close to the end on my Jr. Z build I had been spending so much time zooming in on details that I nearly forgot that I was working on a car!
cheers,
Brian
Believe me....I wish that day was tomorrow! But no such luck...I tried not look too far ahead too many times on this project (I didn't want to get overwhelmed). I can say though that I've started in some way or another on every aspect of the remaining tasks....drivetrain, engine, interior and suspension.

Nice JrZ by BTW.....had my Montreal not happened along...that is one model I was going to look as a next project candidate.
 
#1,408 ·
Looks great! I got a Eastwood tin/zinc anode and some of their plating solution and it works well. More of a I wanna see what it does than anything else.
 
#1,409 ·
Time for a small update. I 'm finally at the point of reassembling some of the other systems...like the fuel lines. I stayed with steel as the material of choice...with the added benefit that these come copper lined. It's a rather simple task of using the originals as the template for the new.

Auto part Automotive exhaust Pipe Exhaust system


New grommets from gprocket worked like a charm to hold the lines firmly in position. I also kept the foam/rubber coverings....corrosion is not an issue to me since this car won't be driven very often (if at all) in poor weather conditions.....but the foam protect the line from potential stone fragment punctures.

Auto part Rim Plastic


I also finally got around to applying rocker guard undercoating all underneath the car.

Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Car


This is another one of those tasks that would have been ideally done when I had the car in the paint shop. But I managed to get it done regardless. I was quite happy with how it turned out after all that effort.

Vehicle Car Trunk Automotive exterior Bumper
 
#1,413 ·
Time for a small update. I 'm finally at the point of reassembling some of the other systems...like the fuel lines. I stayed with steel as the material of choice...with the added benefit that these come copper lined. It's a rather simple task of using the originals as the template for the new.

View attachment 1488577

New grommets from gprocket worked like a charm to hold the lines firmly in position. I also kept the foam/rubber coverings....corrosion is not an issue to me since this car won't be driven very often (if at all) in poor weather conditions.....but the foam protect the line from potential stone fragment punctures.

View attachment 1488585

I also finally got around to applying rocker guard undercoating all underneath the car.

View attachment 1488593

This is another one of those tasks that would have been ideally done when I had the car in the paint shop. But I managed to get it done regardless. I was quite happy with how it turned out after all that effort.

View attachment 1488601
Por 15, waxoil, zink spray?

Sent from my F8332 using Tapatalk
 
#1,412 ·
Body color on the underside is not a top priority for me at this point in time.....( I've gone backwards on too many occasions on this project). I 've progressed on both sides of the front suspension...the usual work was completed on these....strip, blast, paint, new bushings, seals, rotors machined, ...etc. etc...Koni Reds....no magic here....simple simple.

Auto part Vehicle Suspension part Vehicle brake Suspension


Brake calipers calipers were the next mini milestone for me...but not for the disassembly / reassembly aspects. I've been staring at these calipers for years! and was always putting these on the back burner till now.

Auto part


My plating system's power unit is at the limit of amperage (5A) for parts the size of half of one rear caliper. But the end result was not too bad ...for an amateur. The front calipers on the other hand are much larger and so I would have to either plate half of one of the calipers halves at a time...or look for a bigger power unit....one that can output 10A.
 

Attachments

#2,173 ·
Body color on the underside is not a top priority for me at this point in time.....( I've gone backwards on too many occasions on this project). I 've progressed on both sides of the front suspension...the usual work was completed on these....strip, blast, paint, new bushings, seals, rotors machined, ...etc. etc...Koni Reds....no magic here....simple simple.

View attachment 1489209

Brake calipers calipers were the next mini milestone for me...but not for the disassembly / reassembly aspects. I've been staring at these calipers for years! and was always putting these on the back burner till now.

View attachment 1489217

My plating system's power unit is at the limit of amperage (5A) for parts the size of half of one rear caliper. But the end result was not too bad ...for an amateur. The front calipers on the other hand are much larger and so I would have to either plate half of one of the calipers halves at a time...or look for a bigger power unit....one that can output 10A.
Rossano, I can't tell in your photos here but are the suspension bolts black oxide or zinc plated please?

Pete
 
#1,415 ·
Rossano, You are going to have the best 1750 GTV around, did you see what the last two USA S1 1750 GTVs sold for on BaT? I like the black underbody, Alfa may have painted underbodies same color as the top of the car but that was for economic reasons.
 
#1,419 ·
I'm sure you can't wait to sell it and be done with it after all these years of tedious labor ;^)

Sure looks like you're getting close, Rossano. When is the motor getting dropped in? Are you going to throw a big party the day you turn the key? I bet a pretty significant contingent of us who have been following your project since we were just wee lads would show up!

Honestly, I'm almost as excited as you must be to see your car on the road.

cheers,
Brian
 
  • Like
Reactions: mathcg
#1,420 ·
Braino....wee lads? Well...you're invited to the unveiling! Ok....no more idling about! Time to finish off the rear calipers....new bleeders valves, pins and springs.....pads are the orignal ATE's still in good condition with plenty of thickness.....so why waste them. I decided to use teflon tape on the threads....why not...should help to keep out some of the moisture from getting in between the threads.

Auto part Screw


I think these are finally ready to go......I better get moving on the rear axle refurb next.

Auto part


Auto part Automotive alternator
 
#1,421 ·
Continuing on with more of the fuel system bits. The Fispa fuel filter was one heck of a mess with the varnished up fuel gunking up every passage and component...

Auto part




Wheel Metal


Needless to say I re-plated the Romablock clamps, fittings, sending unt and the inside of the fuel bowl.

Automotive wheel system Wheel Circle Auto part Plumbing fixture


...polished out the brass pieces and installed a new filter cartridge & label for the bowl.

Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Carburetor


I still need to clean & seal the gas tank....and the electric fuel pump assembly.
 
#1,422 ·
Nice! Is the low pressure sender compatible with the fuel system? Can't remember what you are using. I've been trying to find a sender that trips below the 2-3 pisg Webers get. Mine like most is really old and will shut the light off at idle but it flickers when running. My pump is delivering 2-3 psi at the ball valve.
 
#1,423 · (Edited)
Nice! Is the low pressure sender compatible with the fuel system? ..... Mine like most is really old and will shut the light off at idle but it flickers when running. My pump is delivering 2-3 psi at the ball valve.
At this point I haven't been able to test the fuel system since I'm still refurbishing all the components. The sender is the original sender so I expect it to be correct for the Spica FI system but until I power up the system I really don't know.
 
#1,424 · (Edited)
Update time....I spent the past 4 or so weekends working on the wheels. I starting off with having them stripped and acid dipped at Technostrip....saved me a ton of time.....so I thought. Problem was that because I wasn't able to get to them till a few weeks later (due to work obligations) ....the nicely bare metal developed a lot of flash rusting with some acid bleed- out of the joints between the centre and outer ring joints (sorry no photos taken)...I expended a lot of effort using naval jelly to get rid of all the rust and followed that up with a liberal amount of Metal Ready (zinc phosphate). Doing five wheels takes a ton of time.....patience is key here.

Rim Wheel Auto part Tire Alloy wheel


After that phosphate I went with self etching primer and high build primer to fill in the areas where originally the wheels experienced some surface pitting due to rust.

Rim Wheel Alloy wheel Auto part Tire


After the primer....a couple of coats of Silver base enamel (code BMW Polaris 60)....finished this off with a few coats of clear coat.

Tire Alloy wheel Wheel Automotive tire Auto part


I can't wait to see those new Pirelli CN36's mounted on these wheels.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Steering wheel Steering part


I also.... finally........... got around to installing the steering wheel.

I'm tackling the gas tank next and hope to get it done this week.
 
#1,426 ·
The shift gaiter looks forlorn.... ;-)

Update time....I spent the past 4 or so weekends working on the wheels. I starting off with having them stripped and acid dipped at Technostrip....saved me a ton of time.....so I thought. Problem was that because I wasn't able to get to them till a few weeks later (due to work obligations) ....the nicely bare metal developed a lot of flash rusting with some acid bleed- out of the joints between the centre and outer ring joints (sorry no photos taken)...I expended a lot of effort using naval jelly to get rid of all the rust and followed that up with a liberal amount of Metal Ready (zinc phosphate). Doing five wheels takes a ton of time.....patience is key here.

View attachment 1522776

After that phosphate I went with self etching primer and high build primer to fill in the areas where the original wheels experienced some surface pitting due to rust.

View attachment 1522778

After the primer....a couple of coats of Silver base enamel (code BMW Polaris 60)....finished this off with a few coats of clear coat.

View attachment 1522780

I can't wait to see those new Pirelli CN36's mounted on these wheels.

View attachment 1522782

I also.... finally........... got around to installing the steering wheel.

I'm tackling the gas tank next and hope to get it done this week.
 
#1,428 ·
First post! well welcome to this awesome Bulletin Board. The second post that you must now make has to be one documenting your restoration. I urge you to do so...I found that it will help to provide you with the much needed support and encouragement during those long stretches of challenging work....that will cause one to lose steam and momentum....believe me I've gone through a few of those during my resto. Those photos you just posted are ideal as the introduction in your thread. Go for it!
 
Top