|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 09:20 PM|
|horsewidower||This is for you, Dave:|
|Today 09:06 PM|
That's what I did on my Spider injector hoses. I just snipped off the old ones, but I did use a soldering iron to burn through and peel the hose ends off the barbs. It's true, you don't want to gouge a leak path into the aluminum barb with a steel Xacto blade!
And Bob-- I'm rejoicing with you man, on that electrical success on your tail lights. Those little finger contacts on the PCB relax, thereby increasing resistance, and bingo you got no lights. I always got a big kick out of finding and correcting these electrical gremlins, I guess because the results are so satisfying!
|Today 09:10 AM|
The hard part is over. I know the factory recommends the “welder” method but it’s crap. Cutting the slits like you did is the way to go.
It’s just as much a pain on Fiats. I’ve only worked on 35 year old Bosch systems and they were all a PITA.
My son just bought a first gen 4Runner so hopefully according to your experience it will be much easier with the Nippondenso right?
|Today 08:21 AM|
Originally Posted by alfaparticle View Post
|Today 06:55 AM|
|alfaparticle||You think that was hard, just wait until you try to replace the fuel rail and align six injectors that don't want to be aligned with holes in the head, without damaging the brittle plastic collars.|
|Yesterday 10:29 PM|
The other GTV6 item I worked on, in order to rest my back from peering over the hatch opening, was trying to get fuel injectors ready to send off to RC engineering.
I don't know that I've ever dealt with a crappier fuel injector arrangement. I've worked on a bunch of fuel injected cars, and these are a PITA!!! Trying to get 35 year old hoses off these fuel rails and injectors is a trial. I tried the "melt off the hoses" with a "welder" (which is a soldering iron) and it was taking FOREVER. Eventually, I just decided to cut the injectors off the rails at the middle of the hose between the barb from the rail and barb from the hose. I removed the snap ring, seal and mounting ring and then tried to "melt" those hose remnants...all it did was give me a headache from breathing noxious fumes. Eventually, I cut several slits in the hose remnants and then use a special Crescent set of little bitty pliers to essentially peal the hose off the injector barb. If anyone has a better way, I'm all ears.
|Yesterday 10:15 PM|
Spent way too much time trying to figure out why the right side brake light doesn't come on...the Borg were wrong, resistance is everything. Because everything is daisy chained together, each corroded, deteriorated link adds up to not getting any juice to the right side. When using the power probe to light up the right side lights (which bypasses all the stock wiring) everything worked fine. I thought the power wire from the left side lights must have a break in it...not so fast. When I used the power probe straight to the linked wire at the left side, things would come on on the right side. Huh??? So I went through and started cleaning all the boards and linkages...and found the initial connector's (to the far left, if you've done this dance you know what I'm talking about) power wire had a corroded, blackened connection to the circuit board. I'm mildly proud of myself in that I could track this down (Thank YOU, DAVE). Of course by the time I thought I had it figured out, the battery was starting to flatten out, so it's on the charger.
|10-12-2019 09:45 PM|
|cda951||Remember to also send the cold start injector to RC, and get a new seal for it.|
|10-12-2019 06:43 PM|
|alfaparticle||I think that there is an idle control device in that box of parts that you just bought from me. You can play with O-rings off line.|
|10-12-2019 05:48 PM|
|alfaloco||That's a handful of work, Bob, but worthy items that will return dividends in reliability. IIRC there are just three pieces of hose there, the fuel line incoming from the pump, the cold start injector looped hose, and the discharge hose to bypass off the pressure regulator. Do you suspect the regulator? Normally they're pretty doggone reliable. Again, IIRC the idle o-ring is 1/4" ID x 1/2" OD.|
|10-12-2019 04:45 PM|
|alfaparticle||Injector hoses would be top of my list. I would leave the regulator alone unless you suspect it to be defective. New Bosch connectors to the injectors if the current ones are going brittle. Slightly loose hoses to the runners are a safety device. You want the plenum to lift on a backfire - less chance of damaging the AFM.|
|10-12-2019 04:32 PM|
"While I'm here..."
OK, in order to get to the oil leak and properly fix it, I need to pull the plenum. So...while I'm there what other items should be addressed?
Here's my current list, I encourage anyone with additional items to sing out:
-Change out the injectors with some I'm sending to RC fuel injection to have cleaned and characterized.
-Change out the hoses from the fuel rail to the injectors
-Change out the rubber hoses from the plenum to the runners
-???Change out the fuel regulator.
-R&R, if necessary, the engine harness for the fuel injectors
-New idle O-ring?
Anything else? I'll start getting everything ordered or sent off this week.
|10-07-2019 10:08 AM|
After the two hour drive over to Sears Point, wonderful drive through the delta and then wine country, I broke down and bought a set of OMP recliners. My shoulder blades were too sore to not take advantage of the 15% off special during the CSRG race meet. Very very nice at the shoulders, a bit tight in the seat. Something that would probably be cured by losing the 30lbs I need to take off. I may take it over to a local upholstery shop and have them take off 1/4 inch of foam from the inside of each thigh bolster. They did not have the mounting plates in stock, so I'll either have to fab them, or order them before installation.
I also talked to the guy that I purchased the car from. It runs like a top and will zing the redline at will. He states that he advanced the cam timing and port matched both the intake and exhaust and trimmed the respective gaskets to fit. I've seen what he did to the exhaust, and he did a great job. Details are important when playing with engines.
The oil leak has made it to the top of the list, but not until 12:30 on Sunday. My rule is that you don't start working on something on Sunday if you're going to use it on Monday, if the worked involved isn't curing something life threatening and if you "fubar" you're made incapable of using it. Next weekend's must do job.
|10-04-2019 10:50 AM|
Originally Posted by alfaparticle View Post
|10-03-2019 01:40 PM|
|alfaparticle||Different mirror I know but the outside mirrors on my Spider flopped back like a dogs ears (do horses do that? ) due to air pressure at speed. The fix was to put a few drops of wicking Loctite, the green stuff onto each joint. They passed the 100 mph test|
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