|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-02-2018 05:59 PM|
Beautiful car! The wheels and stance look absolutely proper. Just followed you on instagram.
Going through a similar build on a rescue milano ourselves - on instagram at alfaddiction. Tagging @Caxny.
Hope to see more of this fine beast soon.
|11-06-2017 05:16 AM|
Great thread and great car, keep it up! :-)
|09-17-2017 07:42 AM|
|eurotechgtv||Very nice, Great to see a fairly local Alfa being built.|
|07-07-2017 06:19 AM|
|barboncino105||for street driving there is only so much lowering that can occur before the car becomes unusable. lower so control arms parallel to ground or a little lower than that is about all you can do reasonably. any lower and headers and sump become sacrificial bump stops.|
|07-06-2017 11:21 AM|
Originally Posted by NMMilano View Post
Drop spindles and castor joints are next on the suspension list for sure.
|07-06-2017 11:18 AM|
Originally Posted by barboncino105 View Post
+20? I think. It's been a while. I'm using 6mm spacer in the front / 18mm adapter spacer in the rear
|07-05-2017 06:49 PM|
|NMMilano||The stance is awesome but yeah if your gonna track it you need spindles. That A arm angle is gonna play havoc with your roll center.|
|07-05-2017 01:06 PM|
Scuderia Giallo-for sale
|07-05-2017 09:55 AM|
|barboncino105||sorry, missed it, what is offset of those wheels?|
|07-05-2017 08:03 AM|
|07-05-2017 07:48 AM|
Originally Posted by GregSef View Post
|07-05-2017 07:44 AM|
Originally Posted by jazig.k View Post
Yeah unfortunately I didn't get a chance to get any drIve by or full pull clips.
|07-05-2017 07:42 AM|
Originally Posted by Duk View Post
I was thinking about the flywheel. This maybe a stupid question ....
Is it possible to lighten the engine flywheel and not the trans? I figured it would throw the driveline off balance but I don't plan to take the trans apart. So if it's going to make everything unbalanced I'll probably just skip lightening the flywheel.
As for the wheels, I had a plan going in to it so i just trimmed up the rear quarter panel since I knew I was re painting it. If you look back a couple pages you'll see all I did was cut the rust out, then I welded in a 5/16 brake line in around the edge, also pushed the quarter panel out just a hair bit with a fender roller at some point during the auto body process. The posts I welded in to hold the flares weren't the brightest idea but they work 'ok' for the time being but I really want to do something else with them.
The front fits almost just perfect honestly. I'm running a 215/45 tire in the front because I had 2 good ones sitting around, but I really need a 215/40 for it to be perfect. The 225/45's in the back were given to me and they were brand new. But honestly the 215/45's in the back, and 215/40's in the front, will make this thing sit perfect and clear all angles.
The front bumper has been off the car longer than it's been on the car haha. It's actually a Milano gold bumper and it never did fit right, but the original verde one got smashed up. I feel the bumper has been off so long that it has potentially stretched out or something because it does not fit good at all right now. I'd really like to find a set of euro/twinspark bumpers (whatever you want to call them) and get rid of the stupid accordions.
Suspension has -1.5 camber front
She hugs and grabs these Western Maryland mountain roads though so it's hard to tell what adjustments it needs and now it's out of commission lol
|07-05-2017 06:28 AM|
My 2 cents:
If a liner has turned or popped up even a little with liner o-rings that have been in the engine for any length of time you have to replace that O-ring. The O rings harden and take on all the imperfections that they seat on. Change its seating position and they don't seal. Any time they are disturbed its over.
I had to pull a motor and change the O-rings the day before a race weekend to learn this.
Its way to easy to revolve a motor while you are breaking it down. So now the minute a head comes off the hold downs go on. If your not sure which liners moved then they all should be changed.
Also in my experience most of my head gasket issues on V6 motors were about leaking combustion pressure into the coolant system (3000 PSI) not with coolant (15 PSI ) into the crankcase. When I wound up with the dreaded milkshake in the crankcase it was almost always the liner seals. Of course it can and does happen that a head gasket fails and leaks coolant into the crankcase but that is usually very obvious and not a subtle indication at the fire ring. Coolant laying on top of a piston when you open a motor means nothing since it leaks out when you pull the head. Steam cleaning of a combustion chamber from a leak is an indication of a big enough water leak to get some water in the crankcase.
|07-04-2017 07:37 PM|
Of all people it surprises me the least to see Duk bring up the suspension [arms angled above horizontal]...
What's the purple on the block side?
**** those sound clips make me miss mine!
Can't wait to crank it over again and hear it wide open!
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