|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-06-2019 11:52 PM|
Ok, for what it takes to put the door on I’ll do it. I guess better to be sure now than find it’s out later.
|09-06-2019 11:21 PM|
Since you are doing inner and middle sill, I'd trial fit the door ... but if you are 100% sure the new one is going in ecsvtly the same place, you probably don't need to
|09-06-2019 08:46 PM|
|Lawso||So here you see the steel sat on and against the old sill, one to the front and one to the rear for reference.|
|09-06-2019 08:42 PM|
|Lawso||Before welding in the inner and middle sill I have a question; before I cut the old sill out I braced the shell, I then set pieces of steel on top of the inner sill and up against the flange where the seal attaches then welded them to the bracing. This was done just to help locate the new sill. So... old sill off and new sill locates in pretty much exactly the same place, can I now weld it in or do I need the door back on first. I’m not fitting the outer sill yet, just inner and middle.|
|07-18-2019 02:17 PM|
|1300junior||Just getting going on my 69 1750 GT, Lawso! It needs much of what you are doing, but I am correcting incorrect and really bad previous repairs. I'll be watching with great interest!|
|07-17-2019 03:32 AM|
Making good progress Lawso! Cracking work so far.
Don't be too daunted by it all. The road to restoration is to think of it as just lots and lots of small jobs, rather than one big job!
I don't focus on finishing the project, just on each small piece of it...and then try to enjoy each piece.
If motivation wanes then just walk away for a few weeks...and come back refreshed.
And don't set timescales
Im enjoying the journey and gaining satisfaction at gaining new skills (and tools!)
If you need anything just ask
|07-16-2019 11:33 AM|
|07-16-2019 07:43 AM|
Top repair panel done now. Just got the A post panel flange to repair to the arch panel then the inner sill can go in. Even though there’s still so much to do I feel like I’ve achieved my first milestone...making a start!
PSK... your advice in an earlier post was perfect “it’s just metal” and “practice”. I’d talked myself out of doing it for months, now I feel I’ll get it done in no time!😬👍
|07-16-2019 04:29 AM|
|Lawso||Before fitting the new inner sill I had to address the corrosion on the front inner arch panel , this in turn led to addressing corrosion higher up and into the bulkhead corner and scuttle area. Each repair needed to attach to a panel that needed repaired itself!! So I’ve got my first repair panel made and welded in, excuse any imperfections, this ain’t going to be a concourse job but just as good as I can make it look to original within my capabilities.|
|07-09-2019 11:35 AM|
|Lawso||So after what feels like forever I made a start cutting out rusted metal today, I’m starting on the o/s sills. First I cut out the outer sill and took photos of the original welds/fitment of the middle sill(well what was left) then cut out the middle sill and took plenty photos of the welds/fitment of the inner sill, then off came the inner sill. Extremely apprehensive to begin with but with each cut the nerves eased. Just getting rid of a lump of rusty metal makes it feel better already. Last photo shows inside of the outer sill, note how the top half is solid along most of it.|
|09-20-2018 02:11 PM|
|Lawso||You can’t beat advise based on experience, please keep it coming. Not only will I be referring to my notes and photos during the course of the restoration but also this forum, in fact mainly this forum. So I take all advise gratefully. I’ve removed the front guards by drilling out the original spot welds, however I made the cut from the front panel (clip) a little further forward as the front panel won’t be reused(well it’s unlikely) but I may re-use the guards.|
|09-20-2018 01:05 PM|
As you will be hanging your doors many times to check your new sills it is wise to remove the door from the hinges, and leave those in place on the body, so you have a good reference point to start rebuilding the front and rear.. It's very easy to just start and keep removing steel, but it's better to keep some true points.
|09-20-2018 11:47 AM|
I'm no expert, but I think it would be wise to buy the new panels first so you can then ensure you are removing the old panels at the correct place ...
(And yes if I ever do another 105, I think I'll remove the whole front clip to repair and reinstall because then you can get to both sides of the outer panels everywhere. Same could be done with the rear ... keeping guards and rear panel as one assembly. Live and learn )
|09-20-2018 02:03 AM|
I took a similar approach with my Duetto.
Completely removed the front clip exposing the inner wings, rad support etc (all replaced with new).
Completely removed the rear clip and transom exposing the inner arches and superstructure. All sills both sides (inner, middle, outer). Rebuilt the rear parcel shelf floor as new (3 layer construction). New floors, panels fitted as factory where possible or remade if unobtainable and then fitted as factory.
Saved an inordinate amount of time as we just disassembled the body and refitted panels as they did originally. Amazing how little primer there was on inner surfaces. The rear inner arches under the rear ‘fender’ was unpainted bare bright steel (still, amazingly).
It’s quite surreal to see the car without any outer panels. Even more surreal to know it’s now rust free and better protected than most new cars
Best of luck!!
|09-20-2018 12:20 AM|
Originally Posted by Lawso View Post
I've done them! I've updated the thread linked above. Let's just say I'm glad I don't have a Super or Berlina.
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