|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-04-2017 01:30 PM|
Originally Posted by mgsteve View Post
this white leads to the 'white' 6-wire connector block behind the dash, then on to the large 8-wire red connector block inside the monopod.
It is not too difficult to get inside the monopod, then you could maybe test continuancy of said wire from this connector block back to coil.
|01-04-2017 03:45 AM|
Tach question for don
Originally Posted by dghii View Post
|01-02-2017 05:47 PM|
|ghnl||I took the liberty of merging two of your similar threads. I hope this doesn't make it too confusing but I thought it might help to get all the replies in one place. Might be a good idea to go back and read through the whole thread to be sure you get everybody's input.|
|01-02-2017 05:42 PM|
While cranking your car, does your tach needle move or does it stay seated?
If tach doesn't move, your crank position sensor may be disconnected or bad. Given that you just did the starter, look for the two connections for the two sensors. There are two 3 wire plugs and sockets located just forward of the washer fluid tank (basically, just above the starter). The two connections are detailed in the L-jet troubleshooting guide.
Your car does not have to start to check these things.
|01-02-2017 04:56 PM|
|joe1958||Yeah I have that but I cant perform most of the checks because the car wont start.|
|01-02-2017 04:47 PM|
Have you tried the L-Jet diagnostic (available here http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...s%20(1982-1989) )?
|01-02-2017 04:23 PM|
No Start 89 Spider
My 89 Spider will crank but not start; no smell of gas, battery reads 13.0, just put in a new starter...don't know what to do, need help!
|01-02-2017 01:42 PM|
|ghnl||Measure battery voltage with everything off - a good battery should show ~ 12.6V. Next measure battery voltage during cranking. It must remain above ~ 10.5V for the computers to power on. It can sound like it is cranking over fine even when system voltage drops below that threshold. If either readings are low, check all connections in the battery to starter circuit (esp grounds) and re-charge the battery. If it remains low, consider having the battery load tested to see if it is serviceable or not.|
|01-02-2017 01:27 PM|
Trickle charged the battery to 13.0 volts, and now the car cranks hard.
New problem...no fire! Need help
|01-02-2017 01:24 PM|
What worked for us was using a short box end 14mm wrench but had to reach from the front around the bracket putting your hand near the block and pull towards yourself.
|01-02-2017 12:52 PM|
Originally Posted by mgsteve View Post
When I did my engine mounts, I got at both those 17mm bolts from underneath with a long 60cm extension on a ratchet....but car was jacked up.
But, many people here have somehow got at that rear bolt, also going in from the front as you have done....
great photo here showing what you are up against
|01-02-2017 12:27 PM|
Joe, How did you get to the rear most bolt under the plenum, that holds it to the support bracket? I got the others from the front
|01-02-2017 11:22 AM|
yes, the small wire attached to the solenoid (usually a simple spade connection) makes the starter engage when IGN key is turned to 'start'.
the thick red and the thick black wires both attach to the upper stud with a nut (the longer stud)
The other connection with the stud (the shorter stud) just has the bare braided wire coming out the starter motor itself (field coil terminal)
I wonder if you wired the thing back up wrong?
Nb.: disconnect battery when doing anything on/near the starter
|01-02-2017 10:31 AM|
|joe1958||Trying t figure out how the starter engages, does the small wire on the side of the solenoid engage when power is given to it?|
|01-02-2017 10:26 AM|
|joe1958||we did not remove the wiring, just the plenum an the hoses.|
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