|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-17-2019 04:42 AM|
|Mark_toro||Yes the 164 heads will fit on the 3.0 liter 75 block. I am in the process of building an engine using those components currently.|
|04-17-2019 02:26 AM|
So I say compare the heads mating surfaces, I think they are the same and then put the 164 head on the 75 Block to see if the holes mate properly with the head studs.
On the other hand I have tried to put a 2,5l GTV6 2,5 head on the 164 3L Block. In that case there was some overly resistance in gliding down the head studs. So that was not a proper fit. A test done just to see if it would fit.
However in the case of 3L 164 heads on the 75 Block I would expect a better result, but you need to see!
|04-16-2019 07:05 PM|
pics of 164 heads on offer
pics of heads... will they fit on the 3.0 block form a milano/75 and what mods if any I will have to make...obviously the distrbutor will have to be blanked off...but other things???
|04-16-2019 06:59 PM|
164 heads on a Milano/75 3.0 litre block
As you will have gathered by 3.0 lire engine...the left hand head....drivers side on US cars and passengers on RHD... wasnt done up properly by the machinist. I am now being offered 164 heads....
A small question... will the 164 12 valve heads fit onto the 3.0litre block from a 75/ Milano????? without modifications. Dont want to go through the expense of getting the heads all the way across several ponds to kick myself later
|02-25-2019 02:34 PM|
With regards to the AFM for the 635 CSI, mentioned by Jim Kartamalakis, I think he mentioned the first model which had L-Jet. in 1980 the model changed to Motronic, so after that would not fit. Look for model E24, engine M90.
|02-25-2019 09:51 AM|
I really appreciate your sharing these photos. Understand that Khyber Pass and the Afghan border have a completely different connotation to this isolated American guy. It is great to put some different images into my mind. Especially ones that I can relate to.
Looks like it was a great time out.
|02-25-2019 09:28 AM|
the petrol smell
the petrol smell has been traced to two things.....the fuel tank in the boot leaks and the holes in the fornt bulkhead havent been closed off.....the inetrior fills with the air form the engine compartment with the additional smell form the boot. Cant blame the workshop as I just the car out unfinished to check the engine drive train and mechanicals. Also to make a check list of things that need to be fixed.
Tried the 633 csi AFM....something happened that I have found strange. The car started and revved nicely... but did not idle so adjusted the idle on the new AFM and the car then stopped revving properly and did not pull. Brought back old AFM and it was back to driving OK on part throttle but with the stumble at 4000 rpm or so.
I am now looking for a L jetronic BMW 633 ECU.
John Kartalamakis mentions in his book that the 635 CSi ecu and AFM work and are plug and play.. well almost ... but these are Motronic and not L Jetronic whereas all GTV6s were L Jetronic so what is he talking about????
Some pics on our latest trip to the Khyber Pass and the Afghan border.. Torkham and the Michni Frontier Corps forward post on the Afghan border.
|02-18-2019 06:31 AM|
Originally Posted by AlfaHaze View Post
|02-07-2019 01:49 PM|
1) A nasty flat spot/stumble at 3750rpm, and
2) Exhaust fume smells unless the cabin blower was on.
My theory on 1 was the two OEM front stub resonators are tuned exactly to 3750rpm, and if you put a custom system on the injection will get all confused, and over-fuel, as it expects the engine to breath wildly at this RPM.
My theory on 2 is that the tail pipe needs to be centralised, or the exaust gets pulled into the wake vortex and into the rear cabin vents.
My theories held up when I got 3.0 75, I cured a bad flat spot at the magic 3750 by fitting standard front resonators in place of the straight pipes that were fitted. It is not very scientific, but it seemed to hold true on these two occassions. Hope that helps.
|02-07-2019 10:11 AM|
It would be really awesome to post a "before" and "after" picture of this car on one post. The change is really amazing. When I first started reading I thought "he will never make it - that is too far gone". Even when I saw the GTV6 parts arrive I thought " a junk car to fix a junk car".
But the results are truly amazing. Bravo on your determination. Sure there are details to finish - its an Alfa - but you are able to drive it now.
|02-07-2019 09:26 AM|
Fix the tappet noise. If exhaust, just a simple screw adjustment!
|02-07-2019 08:16 AM|
Started doing just that ...driving with both windows partially open. The car is still tappetty but loosening. Still stumbles at an indicated 4000 rpm. and on pushing the throttle. The AFM for the BMW from Cardone arrives....635 csi Ljetronic AFM... and guess what it has 5 pins....God it had to happen did it not.
So another one ordered ...lets hope its the correct one when it comes. Am also in the process of getting a spare one I have refurbished by Vickauto. I WILL WIN THIS.
|01-13-2019 05:38 PM|
|ghnl||I've found that if I drive with one window (driver or passenger side) partially open I notice an exhaust smell in the cabin. But if I drive with both windows partially open (or more) then no exhaust smell.|
|01-13-2019 04:45 PM|
If the underhood seals are in good condition and in place, run the hvac fan all the time, as that pulls in clean air from the base of the windshield, lightly pressurizing the inside. Do not drive with a door window partly open, as that can create a partial vacuum inside, potentially pulling air from the rear. Therefore, as mentioned above by alfaloco, make sure the seals around the rear lid are in good good/intact.
Really beautiful looking car. Just great work.
|01-13-2019 04:18 PM|
|alfaloco||On the exhaust fume problem, yes of course all the connections have to be leak tight, but also replace the hood seal and the hatch seal at the rear. That's how we solved that issue with my son's car.|
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