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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-25-2015 03:27 AM
englishBob Going by Spiderserie4's post I had a look at the column stalk and bingo! A soldered wire is loose (the blue on in the pic - should be attached like the purple one with the black plastic cover) and it's actually this one that makes intermittent/park work!
Now all I have to do is to get it fixed. In the mean time I've re-installed the wipers motor and put the cowl / wipers back, complete with the new water nozzles! :-)
05-08-2015 10:06 AM
BobG
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
here you go Bob!
.....inside the Bosch wiper motor (mine is S4, but fairly sure they are the same on s3 as well, maybe even s2?).........hope the dropbox link works.
I have annotated some of the photos to help.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xm4c6b3fm...jGmSAFcEa?dl=0
Link works.

Thanks!
05-08-2015 09:44 AM
spiderserie4 here you go Bob!
.....inside the Bosch wiper motor (mine is S4, but fairly sure they are the same on s3 as well, maybe even s2?).........hope the dropbox link works.
I have annotated some of the photos to help.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xm4c6b3fm...jGmSAFcEa?dl=0
05-08-2015 08:26 AM
BobG
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
my non intermittant part of the wipers was in fact the column stalk.

But, as you have the wiper out I can heartily recommend you take the wiper apart, clear out all the hardened grease and put fresh grease in there on the plastic wheel, and the metal motor 'corkscrew', plus check the brushes and lightly emery (finest grade) the commutator.

It is not a bad job at all. You need just a T20 torx bit. The plastic cover (where the electric wires are soldered) just unclips (4 clips)

I have a lot of photos of the insides of the motor if you want a link.
Please post photos! (Perhaps start a new thread.)

I suspect that those motors are basically the same across all generations of Spiders and thus will be helpful to many of us.
05-08-2015 08:04 AM
spiderserie4 my non intermittant part of the wipers was in fact the column stalk.

But, as you have the wiper out I can heartily recommend you take the wiper apart, clear out all the hardened grease and put fresh grease in there on the plastic wheel, and the metal motor 'corkscrew', plus check the brushes and lightly emery (finest grade) the commutator.

It is not a bad job at all. You need just a T20 torx bit. The plastic cover (where the electric wires are soldered) just unclips (4 clips)

I have a lot of photos of the insides of the motor if you want a link.
05-08-2015 04:59 AM
englishBob As an update - after another long time of inactivity I've finally gotten round of working on the 'ole girl again.
I'm determined to fiw the wiper issue before I put the cowling and othr trim back in place.
I've already cleaned the wiper linkage somewhat, but that's it. Been banging my head about that blasted wiper issue:

It's a 2 speed, 5-wire wiper motor with 3 settings:
1) intermittent
2) slow
3) fast

Slow and fast work ok.
Intermittent doesn't work at all.
Also: wipers don't park so I have to time it just right when switching them off.

A visual inspection of the fuses checks out ok: I've removed each fuse and found no (visual) faults.
I've taken out the wiper motor and cleaned every one of the five contact pins at the end of the electric wire (by removing them individually from the black plastic pin housing).
Also tried to clean the wire coming from the car itself but wasn't able to get those pins out individually so I sprayed the plastic housing with contact spray.
Still no joy: same problem as before.

I've also located the wiper (intermittent ?) relay under the glove box of the passenger side, had it out and opened - didn't see anything wrong with it..

Does anyone have a good knowledge of how this 5-wire 2-speed (+ intermittent setting) wiper motor works (it's a BOSCH unit) ?
I'm determined to get it fixed but am at a loss where to look/what to check next.
I have a simple Voltmeter as my only electrical testing tool.
From what I learned so far: do the red/green wires coming from the motor unit, provide power for the parking function ?

Any help appreciated!

Grtz,

S.
07-04-2014 01:14 AM
englishBob Hi all,

After a few months of inactivity (bathroom refurbishment to blame for that) and the passing away of a dear friend I finally got around to the 'ole SpiderWorks again...
Windshield was removed as recommended by the distinguished members of this forum. Windshield frame was treated with anti-rust.
The "hole" on top of the windshield frame holding one of the 4 screws that keeps the top chrome strip in place was welded.
I've installed 7 clips and after a cleanup of the rubber and windshield itself re-installed it. Bit of a fiddly job but with a bit of help we managed... see attached picture.
Next up is the wiper issues so I can finally re-install the cowling and concentrate on the next nest of issues ;-)

Grtz
09-11-2013 01:27 PM
spiderserie4 someone else on BB also had 10!
5 is too few, imo........the eper parts online shows Qty 7 clips for the S4 spiders. (I guess one in the centre and 3 either side)
I guess no harm in having 10, the more the merrier () but fiddly things to get the cowl to fit into.
09-11-2013 12:57 PM
englishBob Hey Guys,

Another day, another chapter :-)
Finale got around to work on the Spider again.. After some fiddeling I managed to pry the rubbers holding the windshield loose and yessiree, out came the windshield in onze piece!
Thanks for the tips guys.

Meanwhile I also got me one of the afore-mentioned nylon 'brushes' to use with a drill.
So, next chapter is cleanup...

I'll post some pics as the area directly under the windshield where the clips should be seems relatively ok. Clips aren't though: they've all rotted away.
Onze thing puzzels me: based on the visual evidence I counted 10 (?) used-to-be clips.
On this forum I've read 5 or 7 but never 10?..

Cheers
09-04-2013 08:08 AM
Luscombe1940 Stefan,

Since you are planning on keeping the car. the best way to fix this is to cut that rust out and then weld in a new piece of metal. It is not difficult but will require you to remove the windscreen and have access to a MIG welder and some 1mm sheet metal and a grinder.

Once the wind screen is out, you can address any other rust issues around the perimeter. Dealing with these issues now will prevent water from getting into other areas that would be much more difficult to fix later.
If you are not up to doing this yourself, I would have it done by a reputable body repair shop.

It will be easy to then take the finish down to bare metal and then prime the entire perimeter that supports the windscreen since everything will be out of the way. When that is finished, you can sleep nights and not have to worry about future rusts issues in that area. All of the surfaces in this area are covered by the gasket or trim pieces so they really do not have to match the rest of the car color.
09-04-2013 05:53 AM
englishBob Hey guys,

thanks again for your input - the removal of the rear view mirror was easier than I thought - by using the described technique and application of deblock-oil.. :-)
Tis is what I found in the mean time - the most worrysome being the hole on the top of the windscreen frame. The top chrome strip is held in place by 4 screws. Mine was held by 3 screws - the hole of the 4th screw has enlarged through corrosion. Will the rest of the corrosion be 'ok' if I tackle it with sandpaper and some rusteater-product ?
The plan is to go for a complete respray in 5/10y time so for now rapairs will do - though they have to be good ones and the car needs to be mechanically sound and not rotting away underneath me.. ;-)
09-03-2013 05:38 AM
Luscombe1940
Corrosion Removal tool

Stefan,

The attached photo shows the hand drill and fiber cup attachment I used to strip corrosion from my car. These work so much better than wire wheels. They can be found here in the US at hardware stores. They are called Abrasive Nylon wheel brushes and come in various shapes and sizes.

I found that this type of fiber brush in a hand drill really worked well to remove corrosion and prepares the surface for final cleaning and painting. After discovering these, I seldom use wire wheels any more.
Attachment 353298
09-03-2013 01:37 AM
englishBob Hey guys,


I removed all the windshield trim yesterday. Inside and outside. Windshield itself is still in place as I started late in the evening.
Anyway - unfortunaty I found some corrosion needing attention - will post pics later on.

Regards
09-02-2013 03:31 AM
englishBob Hey guys,

Thanks again for your input - I've had no time to work on her this weekend unfortunately but I'll keep you posted on my progress anyway!

Grtz for now
08-30-2013 08:50 AM
Luscombe1940
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
the one thing that might confuse you in the screen removal process, is removing the rear-view mirror....this is held on with a ball joint of sorts inside the base where it meets the top of the inner windscreen.....you need to push the mirror down and towards the screen (preferably by the stem, as the actual mirror part is fragile) and it should "snap" off the base plate(as in come off!)...........all a bit scarey for your first time because you think you are going to bust the thing in half, but that is the way it goes!....then you can get to the screws holding the baseplate to the top frame....to remove the inside screen top trim....etc.
I agree!
Mine was stubborn and I was afraid. I applied a liberal dose of WD40 to the joint area, worked the mirror back and forth a bit and then gently but firmly smacked it with the palm of my hand, down and forwards. It popped right off.
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