|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-26-2019 02:45 PM|
The red Super went home, owner got it registered, is going to drive it.
My car, took to Berkeley Cars n Coffee yesterday. Three Giulia sedans, one Berlina, a Fulvia GT, and a Ferrari F40 (yawn). Not a bad showing at all.
My car hanging out with birds of a feather. The blue Berlina used to be mine but at some point they all were.
|08-07-2019 09:33 AM|
|180OUT||I attached some tubing to the spray nozzle so I could spray directly into the carb. That worked a lot better.|
|08-07-2019 09:02 AM|
Wow, thanks, will check. I put in Marvel Mystery Oil and some kerosene, so far merely to oily effect.
Larry from APE says they often see engines that have sat come up after use. So far this one's pig-headed.
|08-07-2019 08:54 AM|
|180OUT||Andrew, Crysler has an aerosol spray that is designed to help rings re-seat after the cylinder walls have become glazed. You can get it at the parts counter (can't remember the exact name). Anyway, a friend tired it on an engine with low compression and, quite surprisingly, it worked. I had similar results on one cylinder that wasn't up to snuff. Sure, it's mouse-milk but it's not expensive and might be worth a try.|
|08-07-2019 08:14 AM|
It's not the point of this thread to cover other than my green Super, but what the heck. The red car is up and running. The owner and I discussed at length; #1 cylinder has not yet joined in much, continues to have about 50 lbs compression. It is producing power, barely. It eventually fouls the plug. But it runs well enough to drive. So before he and I agreed to spend big time and money on an engine rebuild, I talked him into making the car safe to drive first, see what he thinks of it. Because he's never really driven it. So over the last two weeks I did brakes, front end, tires, to get it operable and safe enough for him to piddle around the Peninsula and get a feel for it.
Rebuilt all that stuff, new calipers, hoses, pads, MC, and I rebuilt the booster with a Classic Alfa kit. All new tie rod ends, upper ball joints, caster rods. Bottom piece of the oil pan, which barely kept the oil in, I removed, to discover it had no gasket, no sealer, and a bunch of big gouges in the sealing surface. Had to sell him a new pan bottom, and now the engine retains its oil. Got the car on the road yesterday, it drives well. Brakes came together on the first try. Drove it around, works well. So I'm going to give it back to him to drive around, enjoy, get used to it. If #1 doesn't eventually sort itself out we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.
Supers are so great, let them sit for 10-20 years, do some basic maintenance and they're wonderful to drive again. Here it is comparing notes with my car.
|07-29-2019 06:24 PM|
Ian, funny choice of words on my part sure; if you're inclined as a Freudian, everything looks like a [fill in the blank]. I had a Freudian lit professor at Cal and it was very tiresome. He knew only one note.
I wouldn't take the car onto the freeway, for instance, what I was getting at.
More tinkering today, trying some kerosene in #1. Might take ages to free up the rings, if at all. Leaks a good amount of oil too, including right out the join on the pan bottom. I'm talking to the owner about what he wants to do. He bought this car for probably not much 10 years ago. I'm doing this see-how-it-is work for almost nothing, but to do an engine and brake rebuild, I need to get paid. It may not make sense for him or me. We'll see.
|07-29-2019 03:21 PM|
Bit like removing a VW Golf Mk4 gearbox without removing the suspension cross member. It can be done by angling this and that (youtube videos have even been made), cursing, etc., but to remove that suspension cross member only requires removing 4 large bolts and 4 small ones (to let the steering rack go); its a ten minute job, and then the gearbox comes out ridiculously easy.
|07-29-2019 01:29 PM|
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
|07-29-2019 01:06 PM|
I wouldn't do that. The trim is very soft and once crazed, you can't uncraze unless you polish the finish off. I can't see a reason to go in that order. We didn't have any trouble. Just my experience.
|07-29-2019 01:00 PM|
If you say so, I'm willing to believe it. But I'm still not getting why you would do it that way, when it's so simple to press the trim into the gasket prior to installing it around the glass. It has to be less traumatic to the fragile trim to do this operation by hand, rather than rely on the specialized tool.
|07-29-2019 12:51 PM|
We did all out trim removal and insertion by hand, was not an issue.
|07-29-2019 12:43 PM|
|180OUT||Jay, there's a little tool that functions like a wedge to open up the gasket and allow the trim to be fitted. Yachtman posted a photo of the tool and it looks like something profession al installers would have. I think I've seen one before but didn't know what it was. Perhaps Yachtman can enlighten us? I've been putting off replacing a cracked front windshield . . .|
|07-29-2019 09:32 AM|
4.5 Reinstall trim into gasket
5. Put new gasket & cleaned-up trim on glass.....
Originally Posted by 180OUT
|07-29-2019 08:35 AM|
|180OUT||Thanks, Andrew. I'm moving from relative to specific ignorance on this topic. Oh, yeah. How did the repaint turn out?|
|07-29-2019 08:28 AM|
1. Remove old glass as complete unit by cutting the gasket with a box cutter. Go carefully, don't cut headliner. Just pull it out of the opening. This assumes you'll use a new gasket.
2. Off the car, set glass on something and work, or cut, gasket off glass.
3. With gasket removed, just pull trim out. Bend rubber to open trough and it comes right out. Don't bend it! Finish will craze if you do.
4. Clean up, etc.
5. Put new gasket on glass. Center it, get it happily in place. You can stretch and bunch as needed to make it happy.
6. Lube gasket and trim (Vaseline, silicone spray, your special blend), press trim into gasket by hand, working around. Corners can be tricky. Be patient, don't hit or bend trim.
7. Further lube gasket and body lip, put lubed cord in gasket trough, insert top of glass in body.
8. One [wo]man inside, one out, push glass up and in, center it, start pulling rope to lift gasket edge over body lip. Work slowly carefully across the top, down each side, then across the bottom. Outside person pushes in/up/sideways as needed. Use a not-sharp 90* pick of some kind to help guide gasket onto body lip.
9. Clean up Vaseline or spray lube. Seal further if so inclined with mastic, silicone, whatever.
Dot's it mon.
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