Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huntington, New York
We had two second place finishes, a fourth and a crash while leading last season so I will second the idea that these cars can win or run up front. And all of this with very lightly breathed on 2.5 liter motor.
Ditto on the front wheel bearings. Get yourself a set of new Timkens or other quality bearings. Do not use the chinese bearings your local auto supply store sells! Replace cones and cups in matched sets. Use a good quality synthetic grease such as redlines or Amsoils.Very important to reset the front bearing adjustment after running a good number of hot laps. They loosen up more than you can imagine and that is a the normal failure mode kickoff. You can run a whole season on a set if you look after them. Iv'e got 4 hard LeMons races on mine. But I always, always grab the front and rear wheels and give them a tug to see if something is beginning to get loose everytime the car is up on a jackstand. I had to do the rears bearings as well. Brian will concur we drive the wheels off the car and it has been good to us.
I also ducted air to the front brakes and the rear as well. Andy's carbotech pads are better than the Porterfields I ran for the first two seasons.
Modify the fuel filler neck by removing the restrictor plate in there. Also make absolutley sure that the filler neck vent line loops up above the filler hose so no fuel can get trapped in it. If it can you will have a hell of a time filling your fuel tank. With a big hose on your 5 gallon can you should be able to put in 5 gallons in about 40 seconds.
Anything you can do to help with engine cooling and cooling system reliability is a great idea. Try not to ever rely on the cars original wiring to take care of anything, take some time and care and do all the critical circuits yourself.
Change all the guibo's as well.
The transaxle gets a lot of heat from the brakes if you can take care of some of that you migfht be OK. In high ambient heat areas on short tracks without good long straights the transaxle can heat soak both from its own heat load and the heat from the brakes soaking in. A winglet on the dedion triangle can scoop up some air and get it to the dead air space the transaxle / brakes live in. But there is a modification I have been doing to the transaxles after having the same trouble s back in 2008 & 2009. The pressed in steel shaft the reverse gear idler spins on will rotate in its bore and come into contact with 5th gear after the transaxle stays above 250 degrees F for a few hours. It will still work and shift but you will hear a zing, zing sound all the time. The mod is to drill a hole in the case through the shaft and pin it in place. If your interested PM me and I can send a couple of pictures. If thistransaxle problem happens to you, then congratulations. You are officially driving the wheels off the car.
But in short. Stuff will break, fix it, improve it and move on.
1972 Berlina Vintage Racer, 1987 Milano Platinum (LeMons Car), 1982 GTV6 EP Race Car, 1974 GTV Vintage Race Car, 2012 VW GTI stage II, 1966 Corvette Coupe 327-350, 2007 Triumph T100 Bonneville. Dearly departed: 1971 Fiat 124 Spider, 1983 Saab 900 Turbo, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero, 1995 BMW 540i Sport, 2014 Audi A4 (swamped)
Last edited by GregSef; 01-30-2012 at 05:40 AM.
Reason: more info