I've been running a Milano ('Alyssa Milano') in Lemons in the Midwest since 2012, and thought I'd share some info/experiences. I apologize in advance for the long post/wall of text.
Theme: Alyssa Milano, actress (Who's the Boss, Charmed, Mistresses, etc.) But has a line of sports clothing for women, as in, pro team logos on clothes for women, called 'touch'. So, that's the theme, so we put some football stuff on the car, a charity she supports, etc. We also put a sticker on the back that says 'Who's your boss?' Cracks me up...
3.0L V6, (installed July 2012.)
Platinum transaxle with 'enhanced' LSD (installed April 2014)
Rebuilt driveshaft (done before 1st race)
Stock brakes except with Wilwood manual proportioning valve (installed 2010), and vented rear disks (installed April 2014) Using ATE Type200.
Front pads: Carbotech XP10
Rear pads: Carbotech XP8
Stock suspension in front (poly AR bushings installed Oct. 2014)
Stiffer springs in rear, with 'red' Koni shocks (installed April 2014)
Stock fuel system
Stock in every way.
We spun a bearing in the first motor (2.5L) at Autobahn (IL) in our first race in 2012, about 5 hours in, and it got worse from there. Replacement was a 3.0L out of a 164, that ran good until Oct. of this year, when it slipped a timing belt tooth, and it got worse from there. Rebuild process is underway. Only mod to engine was setting oil pump clearance to min value to get better oil pressure. Just going by dash gauge, it always had plenty of oil pressure at idle, none of the typical ~<10psi nonsense!
This spring, we replaced the old trans that had developed a whine (like a supercharger!) last year. We ran it for a race and a half like that. Anyway, we swapped it for a platinum with an enhanced LSD, along with a vented rear disk kit (with Spider calipers) from Performatek, replaced the original rear bushings with poly stuff, installed stiffer rear springs and koni red shocks. Even the new rear springs help control body roll, though we still have a lot!
We struggled with brake fade/low pedal issues, and by fixing a combination of things seem to have gotten it under control. First was we needed a correct shim between booster rod and brake m/c, and second was getting the air out of the FRONT lines. This spring after swapping the rear brakes, a team member tapped on the front hard loops while we were struggling to get even a mediocre pedal back, and lots of bubbles came out. In the end, the pedal was better than it had ever been.
But, in the process of trying to diagnose the brake fade, we instrumented 1 front pad and 1 rear pad to get temps. Temps in the front were in the 800-850 deg F range, and the rears could go over 900 F, but still within the Carbotech specs for the pads. With the vented rears, the temps sometimes reach 900, but seem to cool down down much faster and usually are the same as the front, if not cooler. This is going by memory. I can look through the data files if someone wants more accurate before and after info.
Early on, I put ducts for the rear brakes in the rear passenger floor, with PVC pipe scoops, thinking we could pull some air in. Eventually I got a airflow meter and at a track day learned there was none! So, we put ducts in the roof in the bleachers we have (there is a football stadium on the roof) which got some airflow. This spring, I got some plexiglass rear side windows from a former Milano rally car, that had ducts, so we're using those now. Haven't noticed a difference in temps. Also, we cut some 'gills' behind the front fender, thinking it would help hot air get out. Haven't noticed a difference in brake temps with that either. I don't know why, but I continue to instrument pads and collect data. We're even investigating infra-red sensors to get rotor temps, using a harbor freight gizmo.
In July, I installed a thermocouple on the 'oil level' probe to measure engine oil temperature, and was quite horrified that it would get to 290 deg F, running Brad Penn 20w-50 (changed every race). For the last race, I installed a 164 oil cooler and switched to Mobil1 15w50. Oil temps were more reasonable, though maybe a touch high at around 250 to 260 deg F. For the last race, we added a thermocouple for trans temp. Being lazy, I didn't modify the drain plug as planned, so I just JB-welded a TC wire to the bottom of the transaxle case. No useful data the first day, as in the cold and wet I couldn't get the wire to stay on. (That data was mildly interesting, in that just dangling there, the air temp would get to 120 deg F at times). We got some interesting data the second day, with temps around 200 deg F. Keep in mind, this was running for about 40 minutes. With a healthier engine, running all day, brakes heatsoaking the transaxle case, I'm sure the oil will get a lot hotter than 200F. We ran Mobil1 trans oil for a while (changed every race), but switched to redline for the new transaxle.
As like others, we have front bearing issues. We smoked a front wheel bearing in April 2013 on the Sunday. Ever since, we remove and repack/(replace if needed) the front wheel bearings at the end of the first day. It took a few races to track down a clunk in the front suspension, which was apparently the front AR bar bushings. That particular thunk was gone at the last race.
I also tried tufting the car to get an idea of airflow. For the track day I took it to, I forgot my GoPRO, so had a friend take stills as I drove around, which didn't work that well. With a video camera mounted outside the car, it might work to see what is going on. I was thinking there must be a way to duct the rear of the car to pull
air out from the rear brake area, and was trying to locate a low pressure zone behind the car. That was the idea, but haven't found the right way, yet.