Clutch slave cylinder, rod, fork, boot assembly Help please! - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch slave cylinder, rod, fork, boot assembly Help please!

I reinstalled de Dion and everything that goes with it. Bled clutch and break systems and started to install slave cylinder and having hard time with it. Did it wrong way: glued the big/outer boot to the clutch fork opening and tried installing cylinder into it...didn't work.
What's a proper sequence of doing this? Getting bit tired of trial n error thing... Any tips from you experience would be much appreciated

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Zaza

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Last edited by Nakagtv; 11-05-2017 at 05:08 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 04:51 PM
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I would reverse bleed from the slave cylinder using a pressurized bleeder.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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I would reverse bleed from the slave cylinder using a pressurized bleeder.
Yep, that's how I do it. Breaks: from calipers up to master.
I'm having problem installing clutch fork, slave cyl. rod and boot on the transmission.

Zaza

Current Alfas:

2018 Stelvio Ti Sport
1987 Milano Verde
1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 12:32 AM
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Gotta line up the flats on the throw-out bearing with the fork

Hi Zaza

You said " I'm having problem installing clutch fork, slave cyl. rod and boot on the transmission."

The clutch fork will only go fully in when the throw-out bearing is in the correct position. The throw-out bearing has machined flats on two sides. The two "arms" of the fork rest on those flat surfaces. The correct position is for the flat surfaces to be parallel to the ground. Problem is that he throw-out bearing is hidden inside the clutch bell-housing.

Shine a light thru the fork opening and you can see the throw-out bearing (not well, but enough). Using a long screwdriver "bump" the throw-out bearing till the flats are parallel to the ground.

Put a little high temp grease on the clutch fork and on the pivot ball and slide in the fork. When everything is aligned correctly, it will go in with a satisfying clunk.

Nothing is easy on these cars.

Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 07:07 AM
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Sounds like I got lucky with the throwout bearing when I did mine.

As for the boot, I just sort of put it loosely in place, then worked around it to install the cylinder and then pushed it over the housing and end of cylinder when I was done. Is it supposed to be glued?

Al

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Milanoguy View Post
Hi Zaza

You said " I'm having problem installing clutch fork, slave cyl. rod and boot on the transmission."

The clutch fork will ....

Nothing is easy on these cars.

Hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by radioal View Post
Sounds like I got lucky with the throwout bearing when I did mine.

As for the boot, I just sort of put it loosely in place, then worked around it to install the cylinder and then pushed it over the housing and end of cylinder when I was done. Is it supposed to be glued?

Al

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Thanks gents, that's exactly what I wanted to know, I'll give it a second try
Al, boot on mine had few cracks so I fixed it with "shoegoo". Glueing it to the trans will keep it in place for good (I read this in one of the DIY guides created by alfabb member)

Zaza

Current Alfas:

2018 Stelvio Ti Sport
1987 Milano Verde
1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750

Refreshing 1750 GTV
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Last edited by Nakagtv; 11-06-2017 at 10:33 AM.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakagtv View Post
Thanks gents, that's exactly what I wanted to know, I'll give it a second try
Al, boot on mine had few cracks so I fixed it with "shoegoo". Glueing it to the trans will keep it in place for good (I read this in one of the DIY guides created by alfabb member)
I'll have to keep an eye on mine to see if it needs glue to stay put.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch is done and working. Was a b.... of a job, with added complication.
After bleeding the system, installed slave cylinder into the housing (trick is to put the front retaining ring first and then the rear one) while making sure piston is not jumping out of cylinder. Managed to put rod through the boot and into the clutch fork and had wife test the pedal. Seemed like everything was working, but I noticed that whole cylinder was moving/twisting bit too much inside the housing as pedal got pressed. As I pressed the pedal I could feel it needed to load up before anything happened. It turned out that new cylinder has grooves for the retaining circlips 0.5 mm farther apart than the original. Needed 35 x 0.5 mm spacer, which I did not have. Ended up using old housing with new piston and reinstalled everything.
Now I'm trying to adjust rear brake pads and as I turn adjusting bolts, nothing happens....

Zaza

Current Alfas:

2018 Stelvio Ti Sport
1987 Milano Verde
1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750

Refreshing 1750 GTV
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 09:37 PM
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Okay

"Now I'm trying to adjust rear brake pads and as I turn adjusting bolts, nothing happens...."

Need to specify here, the inboard pads are the ones closest to the the transaxle. The outboard pads are well, ... outboard. Normally the inboard pads are easy to adjust, the outboard ones much less so.

When you turn the inboard adjusters nothing happens?? Looking at the pictures in this thread your rear brake calipers look new, are they new?

What happens when you press on the brake pedal? Do the rear brakes engage?

Bye
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Calipers are new. Pedal is still bit spongy, thinking about bleeding them one more time. I did around 20-30 turns CW on outboard adjusters...nada. Left inboard worked, the rest 3 could not move.

Haven't looked at calipers while pedal gets pressed, don't know whats happening down there.

Zaza

Current Alfas:

2018 Stelvio Ti Sport
1987 Milano Verde
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Refreshing 1750 GTV
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Last edited by Nakagtv; 11-06-2017 at 09:54 PM.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 10:08 PM
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I use a 0.004 inch feeler gauge when adjusting the rear brake calipers. I normally adjust the inner pad first and then adjust the outer pad. The inner pad is adjusted using an 7 or 8 mm socket and the outer pad is adjusted by loosening the 17 mm nut and turning the inner part using an allen wrench.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 04:00 AM
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When you loosen the lock nut and turn the outboard adjusters clockwise with an allen key the pads should very quickly move against the rotor, definitely not 20 turns.

Sounds like those calipers aren't adjusting properly which explains poor pedal pressure

Restoring a 75 TS aka the tickspark.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuni123456 View Post
I use a 0.004 inch feeler gauge when adjusting the rear brake calipers. I normally adjust the inner pad first and then adjust the outer pad. The inner pad is adjusted using an 7 or 8 mm socket and the outer pad is adjusted by loosening the 17 mm nut and turning the inner part using an allen wrench.
Check out the discussion from Sept 15 on brake adjustment. I wish I had seen that before I did mine! My way involved a whole bunch of trial and error. I don't know if the manual had some errors or if I just misread it.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 05:48 AM
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Piston may be stuck in caliper bore

Hi

You said.


"Calipers are new. Pedal is still bit spongy, thinking about bleeding them one more time. I did around 20-30 turns CW on outboard adjusters...nada. Left inboard worked, the rest 3 could not move."

Sound like the brake pistons are sticking in their bores, again a common problem. The rebuilt calipers on the market now aren't very good, the pistons are very prone to sticking.

First of all make yourself a little chart of which way to turn, which adjuster, to make the pistons move in and out.

Now take out the brake pads. See if you can get the right inboard piston to move. If you can, move it back and forth (using the adjuster) until it moves easily in both directions. If the piston refuses to move....then you have to remove the caliper, take it apart, pull the pistons from their bores, and grease them with super high temp brake lube. This should have been done by the !!**/^ who rebuilt them the first time.

On the outboard adjuster, it's important to maintain a heavy pressure, pushing in on the adjuster as you turn the Allen key. If you're just lightly turning the Allen key it's easy for the friction drive inside the piston just to spin without moving the actual piston.

On this board you can exploded diagrams and pictures of the diabolical mechanisms inside the caliper pistons, this may give you some insight on why work/ don't work.

Finally to ATE who designed and built these things, Damm you, Damm you to Hell

Hope this helps.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Ok,
Thanks guys for the help and after seeing Nizam's pic, it made sense why only the left inboard was getting adjusted: I was turning them all clock wise. Thanks Nizam, hope you don't mind me borrowing it.
The good news is that adjusters are working and got hand brake to bite on disc, so calipers seem to be functioning.
Now the bad news is that, pedal's still bit spongy and hand brake sets too high. As I tighten/adjust hand break cable, seems like it makes pads go out of settings...
Got no more leaks, will go down there and try to readjust pads again...
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Zaza

Current Alfas:

2018 Stelvio Ti Sport
1987 Milano Verde
1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750

Refreshing 1750 GTV
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