Verde Street, Track, & Restoration - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Verde Street, Track, & Restoration

My name is Sam. As some of you have seen me post some of my 164S and others ive delt with me in the Classifieds! Well here is my 1988 Milano Verde.
Hope all enjoy!

Finally decided to put my build on here, even though i shouldve started it a while back. So you can read through, just figured id share my project with everyone!

Bought to be a track car, but also a street-able car for nice days.

I dont have a fancy camera so basically, iphone camera is all ive got. You can follow along if you choose, so here goes...


Basically this build started back in November of 2012 when my alternator took a crap, so i decided to park it for winter while i tore it apart and got all my funds together and figured out a plan.

First plan of action, get the local to rebuild one of my ****ty alternators.

This may be the boring part for all of you, so you can back out now if you'd like..





The plan was to clean up the crappy overfilled engine bay of all of its useless stuff.



First: to get rid of most of the wires on the drivers side of the engine bay, i decided to switch to a Non-abs brake system. The 25+ year old system didnt function anyways, So its gotta go.

first comes the terrible ABS harness.



all this unnecessary stuff





second, abs accumulator pump, master cylinder, and wheel speed sensors.



During all that, also removed cruise control and cruise control harness and module.

I know, boring stuff, right?

okay. so all that is out, starting engine bay prep.

moving battery to back eventually, so battery tray needs to go.



big rust hole underneath that once i got it removed.

cut it out, and cleaned up that area, cut a patch panel, welded in.





did some welding on the other side



over view of progress



over the following days, i grinded down all the welds, filled some stuff with fiberglass, and put very little bondo to cover the minor imperfections.

Also some new used parts dropped in from a friend. (Mike164S on here)
IAP headers, with mating downpipes (need re done), and an S manifold which i dont think im going to use.



friend was over with his camera, so he snagged a good pic of midway progress!



rolled outside to blow the body dust and stuff off and clean off the bay in prep for primer and paint



primer passenger, driver side, front rad support, rear of bay also but no progress picture.







moved on to painting the bay, thank god. shaving the bay was a pain.



finshed with that, moving on finally.

In the meantime did some random things while i saved money and also spent it as quick as it was coming in.

took my calipers, had them sandblasted and cleaned up.





painted them. my new brake hardware came in. ended up being the wrong hardware so awaiting new.







Good many parts rolling in to get started on.

Since im switching to Non-Abs system, new master cylinder, brake booster, pedal assembly, and some miscellaneous parts.



Koni adjustables were on sale, so i couldnt resist saving $150 during the build



Also needed new radiator, so i bought new hose, thermostat.

Needed to do a valve adjustment as well, so valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, and some other gaskets ordered too.





Cleaned up all my non abs parts, made sure everything was in tact, painted, and used that newer copper brake tubing to make some lines.



made some more lines, set up proportioning valve. found out the valve leaks, so for better track adjustment, i picked up a universal adjustable one from jegs

(Does anyone know much about them? ive herd of a few guys on here running them but not sure how to connect all the lines)





Made sure it started up, ran, and everything functioned properly. Will be a while untili can road test as i have the suspension building approaching.



Now one of the big obstacles out of the way, moving forward.

All the suspension arrived so i can actually get to my favorite part.

ball joints, all bushings, tie rods, rear springs and perches.



Last pic of the car being on the ground. my friend is excited for the new change.



Ripped everything off, forgot to get pictures, but definately needed to clean up.



lots of scrubbing, sanded down, primered and painted



I knocked the old bearings out of lower control arm. prepped for sandblasting the control arms and paint.



After i had sandblasted everything, i painted everything, then i put the bushings in.



after i sandblasted and painted my lower control arms, i forgot i broke a shock bolt in the arm. big pain in the butt drilling out, thread chasing, but i got it surprisingly fast.



got that situated,now to adjusting the ride height per the torsion bars

terrible picture, sorry



i quickly bolted up the minimum to test my ride height



terribly wrong on my adjustment, all i could do is laugh as i wanted to lower it (first time with torsion bars)



so, yeah. pretty much brings me up to date on what is going on currently. i took everything back apart for some serious adjustment. While i wait on new front rotors and brake pads, i sent my wheel hubs to a friend for some cleaning.



Wheel bearings are packed and put into the one wheel hub ive got back from my friend.

waiting on my new brake hardware kit, rotors, and pads to get here, then i can recheck my ride height and see what im at.
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post #2 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Rotors arrived today from Centerline so i could put the rest of my suspension together, get it on the ground, and check my ride height again.





Ill be running 17's when i get closer to the point of it actually being road/ track worthy.





Since the front is on the ground, ill be starting the rear suspension. I will get updates in the next couple days.

Stay tuned!
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post #3 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 09:10 PM
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The work you've done so far look fabulous! That is going to be an amazing car when finished.

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post #4 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 09:40 PM
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awesome engine bay! cant wait to have the chance to do mine
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post #5 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 11:19 PM
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Plumbing the adjustable brake pressure regulator into the braking system is quite straight forward.
The brake port at the rear of the master cylinder (closest to the vacuum booster) is for the rear brakes. Have a brake line go from the MC to the input side of the pressure regulator and the output go to the brake line for the rear brakes.
The other 2 lines are for 1 of the front brakes and provide a pressure reference signal to the factory pressure regulator. All you need to do is connect the brake line that goes to the front left brake, directly to the master cylinder.

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post #6 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 01:59 AM
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Love the work so far, particularly the shaved engine bay panel work.


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post #7 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 06:42 AM
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good work! well done!
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post #8 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Plumbing the adjustable brake pressure regulator into the braking system is quite straight forward.
The brake port at the rear of the master cylinder (closest to the vacuum booster) is for the rear brakes. Have a brake line go from the MC to the input side of the pressure regulator and the output go to the brake line for the rear brakes.
The other 2 lines are for 1 of the front brakes and provide a pressure reference signal to the factory pressure regulator. All you need to do is connect the brake line that goes to the front left brake, directly to the master cylinder.
Thank you! It was something so simple yet I made so difficult in my head.


Everyone thank you for the kind words. I just through one big update together to put it on here. There will be more to come
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post #9 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 08:55 AM
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Looking good.
For a track or street car I'd replace those caster bushings with ball joints, now's the time to do it while you have clear access in the engine bay. Even with those nice bushings you have your values will change every time you align the car.
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76 Alfetta GT race car
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post #10 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 09:24 AM
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Project is looking good!

I have some nice 16" TSW EVOs for sale in case you are interested. Not 17"s but fits the Milano's wedge styling well.

1987 Milano Gold 3.2 24V + JK Cams + JK headers + Autronic SM3
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post #11 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Looking good.
For a track or street car I'd replace those caster bushings with ball joints, now's the time to do it while you have clear access in the engine bay. Even with those nice bushings you have your values will change every time you align the car.
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Yes I plan on doing the caster ball joints. I got the bushings a while back and just used them to set everything up then read some good stuff about the ball joints. I also need to figure out my caster rods, because I could not get them to bust loose for ANYTHING. Any suggestions?
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post #12 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 10:39 AM
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Heat in a vice usually works. Also look closely at the threads, some are reversed.

87 Milano Platinum
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post #13 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking if there was a way to make some custom ones effectively. But I suppose ill have to give the heat treatment a try!
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post #14 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 05:16 PM
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Looks awesome... let me know when I can drop mine off :>
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post #15 of 199 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Haha. I will never tuck the bay on one of these again. Big pain in the butt! Everytime I look into my S bay, I will probably end up wire tucking that one day.
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