Verde Street, Track, & Restoration - Page 8 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #106 of 199 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 12:31 PM
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Murray Signs between Frostburg and Grantsville on Rt. 40 does nice work (paint graphics/airbrushing) if that kinda thing is in the works. This is fun to read thru. Can't imagine how much fun yer having!! ciao jc

Maintaining my tenuous strain on reality.
89 164 2l Twin Spark, 2011 Tonka Dump

Recently added: an 89 75 (Milano) 1.6 litre w/44K on the klok.

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79 Alfetta GTV w/Spica, my 1st Alfa

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79 Scirroco, ex plowed into an illegally parked house with it...
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post #107 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Rolled her out to blow the dust off. Engine bay is 98% complete.






More updates to follow as soon as I get all my pics loaded up!

Last edited by AlfaTechMD; 06-06-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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post #108 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 10:36 PM
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Looking good!! More pictures!

In the process of engine bay shaving myself (along with full front end rebuild). Motivation right there!
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post #109 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-07-2015, 04:22 PM
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Yeah, love the 'shaven' look.


2009 159SW Ti 3.2 Q4 . Alfa Red - Black | 2006 GT 3.2 . Kyalami Black - Red
1994 155 2.0 8V TS . Gunmetal Grey - Grey | 1989 75 3.0 . Alfa Red - Grey
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post #110 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-07-2015, 05:57 PM
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Great post.. Bravo!

Thanks,

Rob from New Hampshire. (Robnh)

Current line up: 76 Alfetta Sedan Euro 1.8L, 88 Milano Verde, 88 Milano Platinum Auto, 1992 164L Automatic
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post #111 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-07-2015, 06:30 PM
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That's one good looking V6!

87 Milano Platinum
76 Alfetta GT race car
70 Fulvia 1.3 Rally S
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post #112 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-07-2015, 10:41 PM
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Nice project.
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post #113 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Did this nice little project. Made a 3 piece line for the clutch. Instead of it being buried in the top the driveshaft tunnel, I ran it in place of the where the factory fuel lines were. (I'm running a whole new fuel system so I'm not concerned about the placement.)

Issue: -slave cylinder is new
-all lines are new
-clutch master cylinder is new

I've read a couple diagnosis on how to bleed the clutch and I cannot get anything.


Problem: I pumped and pumped and pumped, most I've got is a few dribbles out of the slave.

The only thing I have not tried is raising the rear higher than the rest of the car.

A lot of info, but if you follow me, any other suggestions?













More updates to come!
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post #114 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 12:29 PM
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Whenever I've tackled this task - many times, BTW - I've always had the rear end up pretty far, simply because I was underneath the car and working in a sitting position. After raising up the rear, I would recommend applying a vacuum pump (Mity-Vac) to the slave bleed valve. First, wrap the threads of the bleed valve with plumber's teflon tape and you'll get better results.
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post #115 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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I do not have a mity-vac to use so I'm going to need another method. I'll try jacking the vehicle up and see what that results in.
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post #116 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 01:31 PM
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With a crow bar, pry the clutch fork and pushrod back, fully depressing the piston in the cylinder. Have the rear of the car elevated. Bleed it like this.

Also make sure the slave is properly supplied with brake fluid, the hose to it sometimes has a huge air bubble in it. Work the hose to get it out. I use clear hose to see this.

Lastly, sometimes a drip bleed is a good idea. Top off reservoir and slightly crack open bleeder and walk away for sometime.

Also this all assumes that you have rotated the slave so that the bleeder fitting is at the top.

Greg

1972 Berlina Vintage Racer, 1987 Milano Platinum (LeMons Car), 1982 GTV6 EP Race Car, 1974 GTV Vintage Race Car, 2012 VW GTI stage II, 1966 Corvette Coupe 327-350, 2007 Triumph T100 Bonneville. Dearly departed: 1971 Fiat 124 Spider, 1983 Saab 900 Turbo, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero, 1995 BMW 540i Sport, 2014 Audi A4 (swamped)
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post #117 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Greg, thank you for the input. I've also done all that except for the "drip bleed" method. I'll try tonight and report back. Thanks!
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post #118 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 03:41 PM
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You should be able to 'rent' a Mity-Vac for 'free' at your nearest auto supply store.

Another thing I strongly encourage is to, if you have not already done so, is to [U]thoroughly[U] clean out the bore in the cast bracket that mounts the slave; then give both items a liberal coat of nickel-antisieze compound. It will make rotating the bleed valve to the top a breeze now and in the future. Just sayin'.

Last edited by Graham D; 06-19-2015 at 03:51 PM. Reason: addition
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post #119 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Just the vacuum hand pump type tool? Wasn't sure the legitimate name of that.
Anyways, no clutch slave cylinder diagnosis tonight because of previous error.



Unfortunately, just my luck. Go out to the garage, see that both sides of both calipers were slightly dripping.
I figured bleeders weren't tight enough (my bad). I got reman calipers and I was particular about how tight the bleeders felt bleeding the brakes previous to the clutch question.

I tighten the first bleeder - STRIPPED

other 3 bleeders - Ok, completely tight.


What the hell to do now with a stripped caliper bleeder. I don't know if the threads ate on the screws or inside the caliper port....
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post #120 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 06:23 PM
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Read that you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it too?

I did this when I replaced the master cylinder and the flexible hose to slave cylinder, and I was able to bleed the system without a problem.

'88 Milano Verde [sold] - '99 Silverado - '15 Mustang
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