Verde Street, Track, & Restoration - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-15-2013, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well over the past couple days, I started tackling this rear wheel bearing job. OH JOY, is all i can say lol.

One side was, the bearing was grinding and growling, i could tell it was shot.

Other side was making no noise, but lots of play, either way im doing both bearings since im going all out here.

I took the big 36mm spindle nut off. One side took a breaker bar + a cheater pipe to get loose. The other side, i tried the same trick and ended up breaking my breaker bar . So i took it into my work, used my buddies 800ft lb Snap On gun and zipped it right off. Pulled the splines out, and began to get the hubs out.



I take it the Seals come off of these, can anyone confirm?

Anyways, i hooked up the slide hammer, and within a couple good hard pulls, off came the hubs.



That bearing that was grinding and growling? Yeaaaah....





Looks like reese peanut butter, if you ask me.
The race was stuck to the hub, but nothing a little specialty tool couldnt do to pull it right off there. Im kicking myself now, because instead of being helpful, i forgot to take pictures of the tools being used for any reference for someone. Other bearing stayed in tact

After all this, i did some research on best methods on getting those pesky retaining rings out. Some say special tool, some say make the tool. I took a chisel, and a hammer. The passenger side came out like a charm. The painful Reverse- threaded driver side, took some heat from the oxyacetylene and another trick. After tapping with a chisel, and still no movement. From the heat of the torch, i then took a birthday candle, and let the wax melt down into the threads to help loosen then grip it hand. I had heard about this trick, but never actually tried it. I was skeptical, but if youre doing this job, you could go out on a limb like me and try it.





After i succeeded in a total of about 10 mins when some said it would take possibly hours, a victory of not doing much for the rest of the evening and after working all day, I decided to clean my hubs up with the surfacing wheel, and call her quits.



My wheels should be here within a couple days, and depending if ill have to run a spacer to achieve the fitment im looking for, can anyone confirm if theres a way to get the rear wheel studs out? To me, it looks like the ABS tone-ring is blocking the way, and ive been trying to search for answers all day. To keep costs down, I would rather just run longer wheel studs if i can because i already have spacers.




Until another day....

Last edited by AlfaTechMD; 11-15-2013 at 06:57 PM.
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post #32 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-15-2013, 10:10 PM
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Haha, I broke 2 1/2" breaker bars doing the 36mm nut then the retaining ring. Gonna buy a 1meter 3/4 or 1" drive bar next time...
I milled up my own socket for the retaining ring. Made a bunch of bits to ease pressing and pulling etc etc and the job isn't to bad... Well, won't be bad if I need to do it again.
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post #33 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-16-2013, 08:58 AM
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Hi

You said "...can anyone confirm if theres a way to get the rear wheel studs out? To me, it looks like the ABS tone-ring is blocking the way, and...."

The answer is yes. I haven't done this myself, but the guy on this forum who is a LeMons racer has done this. Do a search for him.

Bye
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post #34 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-16-2013, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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I'm sure there's more then one "lemons racer" on here, so I could be searching for hours. I've tried searching already and no one seems to give a direct answer.
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post #35 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Since I will be running white wheels, can anyone recommend a brake pad that creates less brake dust then another?
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post #36 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 11:01 AM
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Here are the ARP #'s for the studs and Lugnuts I use in my cars.
.

Front wheel studs 7712 ARP $17.42 Summit

Rear wheel studs 7720 ARP $24.95 Summit

lug nuts 12mm x 1.5 3548-005 $2.99 Summit

You will need to press off the ABS trigger wheel and I believe the dust shield which is staked to the hub will also need to come off. I drill out each stud hole with a 14.5mm drill then ream with a .575" reamer (For the rear, fronts different). That makes a good press fit for the splines.

Greg

BTW my car & team placed 5th in the East Coast division and 9th nationally for the 2013 24 Hours of LeMons season. Not to bad considering most of the people in front of us are using multiple cars that get an automatic 3 points per car just for showing up.

1972 Berlina Vintage Racer, 1987 Milano Platinum (LeMons Car), 1982 GTV6 EP Race Car, 1974 GTV Vintage Race Car, 2012 VW GTI stage II, 1966 Corvette Coupe 327-350, 2007 Triumph T100 Bonneville. Dearly departed: 1971 Fiat 124 Spider, 1983 Saab 900 Turbo, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero, 1995 BMW 540i Sport, 2014 Audi A4 (swamped)

Last edited by GregSef; 11-18-2013 at 05:37 AM.
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post #37 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know where I can get new OEM brake line fittings? Like the cone style that screw on to front brake hoses?
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post #38 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 08:56 PM
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Dang, doesn't look like fun. I broke a rear stud 2 weeks ago. Got the tools from Totally Alfa. Going with ARP studs..

1987 Milano Gold 3.2 24V + JK Cams + JK headers + Autronic SM3
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post #39 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDmilano88 View Post
Anyone know where I can get new OEM brake line fittings? Like the cone style that screw on to front brake hoses?
Not sure what you are looking for but all the popular Alfa suppliers sell SS braided upgraded brake hoses. One of the best things for a very firm brake pedal.

If you want individual brake line components do a search for the Fedhill company. They sell really good components, tools and brake lines.

Greg

1972 Berlina Vintage Racer, 1987 Milano Platinum (LeMons Car), 1982 GTV6 EP Race Car, 1974 GTV Vintage Race Car, 2012 VW GTI stage II, 1966 Corvette Coupe 327-350, 2007 Triumph T100 Bonneville. Dearly departed: 1971 Fiat 124 Spider, 1983 Saab 900 Turbo, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero, 1995 BMW 540i Sport, 2014 Audi A4 (swamped)
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post #40 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSef View Post
Here are the ARP #'s for the studs and Lugnuts I use in my cars.
.

Front wheel studs 7712 ARP $17.42 Summit

Rear wheel studs 7720 ARP $24.95 Summit

lug nuts 12mm x 1.5 3548-005 $2.99 Summit

You will need to press off the ABS trigger wheel and I believe the dust shield which is staked to the hub will also need to come off. I drill out each stud hole with a 14.5mm drill then ream with a .575" reamer (For the rear, fronts different). That makes a good press fit for the splines.

Greg

BTW my car & team placed 5th in the East Coast division and 9th nationally for the 2013 24 Hours of LeMons season. Not to bad considering most of the people in front of us are using multiple cars that get an automatic 3 points per car just for showing up.
Thanks for the info! This is very helpful, as this is going to be a step coming soon that i plan to do.


The brake line fittings im looking for are these:





I made all new brake lines on the car including the one to the rear wheels.the fitting was too rusty and pitted to save. I want to try to keep some things OEM line this because im not using braided brake lines quite yet.

Anybody use, or recommend this new copper line? i had a roll and I was thinking of using it because it does not rust.



As you saw back on the first page, i used the copper lines to make the front lines on the master cyl. Now im thinking maybe this line is too flimsy or may burst under a certain pressure. then again, its used in houses?
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post #41 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 12:16 PM
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I would not recommend ordinary copper tubing, if that is what your picture is showing, for brake line use. You need copper-nickel which is formulated especially for this purpose; it does not work-harden like ordinary copper and is extremely easy to form. It is available already made up in various lengths with the proper flares and end fittings at stores such as AutoZone (NFI). Fed-Hill may have the nut you wish but if not, you should be able to find three good ones from a salvaged Milano and perhaps have them re-plated.
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post #42 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 02:30 PM
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right here

10mm x 1.0 Fine thread, female steel nut, SAE (double) flare, 16mm long.

Take a look at thee brake line.

Greg

1972 Berlina Vintage Racer, 1987 Milano Platinum (LeMons Car), 1982 GTV6 EP Race Car, 1974 GTV Vintage Race Car, 2012 VW GTI stage II, 1966 Corvette Coupe 327-350, 2007 Triumph T100 Bonneville. Dearly departed: 1971 Fiat 124 Spider, 1983 Saab 900 Turbo, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero, 1995 BMW 540i Sport, 2014 Audi A4 (swamped)
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post #43 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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It is copper nickel line. Thanks for the website on the fittings. I shall look.
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post #44 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDmilano88 View Post
My wheels should be here within a couple days, and depending if ill have to run a spacer to achieve the fitment im looking for, can anyone confirm if theres a way to get the rear wheel studs out? To me, it looks like the ABS tone-ring is blocking the way, and ive been trying to search for answers all day. To keep costs down, I would rather just run longer wheel studs if i can because i already have spacers.

You should just be able to pop the ABS ring off, it is a press fit but not that tight. I had one fall off as I was beating it with a dead blow hammer a couple weekends ago to get my hubs out. Didn't matter as I don't have ABS anymore either. Probably could get them to come off with a hammer and flat blade screwdriver.

Kevin

Currently Alfaless. Ex: 87 Verde, 86 GTV6, 67 Super, 86 Spider, 88 LeMons Verde
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post #45 of 199 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Alright thanks. I'll try that and see where I get lol.
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