Verde Street, Track, & Restoration - Page 13 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #181 of 199 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jazig.k View Post
Coming along great!

What's you plans to tackle the air-oil separator? That filter type will just fill with oil and make a mess in the general area.

I've been looking at finding a smaller neater alternative but I haven't come up with anything yet. Thinking about machining my own, or incorporating one into a cold air box. Plastic fabricator friend dropped off all the sheet, I just need need to make the cardboard templates then start cutting and welding. Still not sure though.
Yeah a oil catch can is definitely in order. This was temporary. I have a spare set of valve covers, so I may cut the factory nipple off and weld on an AN fitting then route it in a clean way. All my emissions stuff is deleted, so I'm probably going to hide a catch can behind the front bumper or something.
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post #182 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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I got the car running and driving great.
Coolant temps around 175-180
Oil pressure was good ~ 60-80psi on cold start , 25-40psi on warm, closer to 25 idle.
Fuel level sending unit ~ works perfect

Some kind of minor electrical issue with gauge cluster though. When I am on the brakes, the gauge cluster gets power and operates
Not on the brakes, no power. Short somewhere it seems

Speedo is intermittent. Works when you're above a certain speed

Drove the car around for 3 days and the sway bar link kept popping off the bushing so I said screw it, went to the local race car shop and had them fix me up with some adjustable sway at links for somewhere right around $50.





Here's a couple good shots.







Ran awesome but I guess all the sitting and old age decide it was time for head gaskets. There were a couple hints showing it was time. My friend said i was getting white smoke more frequently and then under normal driving it went up it some white smoke.
I had zero coolant in the reservoir or lines and when I checked my oil it was very milky ...
Since I have deleted power steering, abs, a/c it took about 2 hours to get the engine completely broke down up top and ready to come out






Can't stress enough that jacking the rear of the car up is a BIG help for anyone new to the process. By jacking the body up in the air, I was able to drop the dedion a little bit further. Engine pulled off the pinch yoke on its own.





onto the ground for the time being until I get home tonight.

So engine out



Made some marks



Valve covers off



Pretty pumped about this. Digging around in an old box of parts and found a brand new tensioner to replace my old broken one.



The headers were a little banged up so they are getting recoated



One cylinder head off
Old gasket is crap.
Found middle liner that spin freely by hand
Coolant in one cylinder





Other head off
Found middle liner on this side also spins freely
Coolant in one cylinder
Gasket on this side also crap
Made quick hold down tools. Since I plan to do completely tear down, I decided to go quick and cheap by making them out of plastic pvc instead of metal tubes





Bad spot in the gasket







Drained some more milk out





Dropped the oil pan off and continued cleaning


Last edited by AlfaTechMD; 07-04-2017 at 05:39 PM.
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post #183 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Couple of test pulls before she bit the dust. I love the way she sounds.




Last edited by AlfaTechMD; 07-04-2017 at 05:40 PM.
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post #184 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 06:34 PM
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Unfortunate about the coolant leak.

Car sounds nice.

Maybe take the oportunity to lighten the engine (and clutch) flywheel while the engine's out? Would certainly help the acceleration.

How much adjustment was needed to get that wheel/tyre combination to fit?

She needs either simple non-impact type bumpers or Veloce bumpers. With that colour and the white wheels

And sort out that front suspension geometry...............

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post #185 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 07:37 PM
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Of all people it surprises me the least to see Duk bring up the suspension [arms angled above horizontal]...

What's the purple on the block side?

**** those sound clips make me miss mine!
Can't wait to crank it over again and hear it wide open!

Message me if any of my pictures are down and you would like them. Send me the topic link and I'll reupload them properly.
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post #186 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 06:28 AM
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My 2 cents:

If a liner has turned or popped up even a little with liner o-rings that have been in the engine for any length of time you have to replace that O-ring. The O rings harden and take on all the imperfections that they seat on. Change its seating position and they don't seal. Any time they are disturbed its over.

I had to pull a motor and change the O-rings the day before a race weekend to learn this.

Its way to easy to revolve a motor while you are breaking it down. So now the minute a head comes off the hold downs go on. If your not sure which liners moved then they all should be changed.

Also in my experience most of my head gasket issues on V6 motors were about leaking combustion pressure into the coolant system (3000 PSI) not with coolant (15 PSI ) into the crankcase. When I wound up with the dreaded milkshake in the crankcase it was almost always the liner seals. Of course it can and does happen that a head gasket fails and leaks coolant into the crankcase but that is usually very obvious and not a subtle indication at the fire ring. Coolant laying on top of a piston when you open a motor means nothing since it leaks out when you pull the head. Steam cleaning of a combustion chamber from a leak is an indication of a big enough water leak to get some water in the crankcase.

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Last edited by GregSef; 07-05-2017 at 07:57 AM. Reason: clarity
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post #187 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Unfortunate about the coolant leak.

Car sounds nice.

Maybe take the oportunity to lighten the engine (and clutch) flywheel while the engine's out? Would certainly help the acceleration.

How much adjustment was needed to get that wheel/tyre combination to fit?

She needs either simple non-impact type bumpers or Veloce bumpers. With that colour and the white wheels

And sort out that front suspension geometry...............

I was thinking about the flywheel. This maybe a stupid question ....
Is it possible to lighten the engine flywheel and not the trans? I figured it would throw the driveline off balance but I don't plan to take the trans apart. So if it's going to make everything unbalanced I'll probably just skip lightening the flywheel.

As for the wheels, I had a plan going in to it so i just trimmed up the rear quarter panel since I knew I was re painting it. If you look back a couple pages you'll see all I did was cut the rust out, then I welded in a 5/16 brake line in around the edge, also pushed the quarter panel out just a hair bit with a fender roller at some point during the auto body process. The posts I welded in to hold the flares weren't the brightest idea but they work 'ok' for the time being but I really want to do something else with them.
The front fits almost just perfect honestly. I'm running a 215/45 tire in the front because I had 2 good ones sitting around, but I really need a 215/40 for it to be perfect. The 225/45's in the back were given to me and they were brand new. But honestly the 215/45's in the back, and 215/40's in the front, will make this thing sit perfect and clear all angles.

The front bumper has been off the car longer than it's been on the car haha. It's actually a Milano gold bumper and it never did fit right, but the original verde one got smashed up. I feel the bumper has been off so long that it has potentially stretched out or something because it does not fit good at all right now. I'd really like to find a set of euro/twinspark bumpers (whatever you want to call them) and get rid of the stupid accordions.

Suspension has -1.5 camber front
-.5 rear

She hugs and grabs these Western Maryland mountain roads though so it's hard to tell what adjustments it needs and now it's out of commission lol
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post #188 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jazig.k View Post
Of all people it surprises me the least to see Duk bring up the suspension [arms angled above horizontal]...

What's the purple on the block side?

**** those sound clips make me miss mine!
Can't wait to crank it over again and hear it wide open!
Purple stuff is just degreaser/purple power mix.

Yeah unfortunately I didn't get a chance to get any drIve by or full pull clips.
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post #189 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GregSef View Post
If a liner has turned or popped up even a little with liner o-rings that have been in the engine for any length of time you have to replace that O-ring. The O rings harden and take on all the imperfections that they seat on. Change its seating position and they don't seal. Any time they are disturbed its over.

I had to pull a motor and change the O-rings the day before a race weekend to learn this.

Its way to easy to revolve a motor while you are breaking it down. So now the minute a head comes off the hold downs go on. If your not sure which liners moved then they all should be changed.

Greg
Thanks, Greg. I'm the type of person that really just was going to replace them either way. I don't want the smallest thing to be detrimental just because I was being lazy.
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post #190 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 08:03 AM
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Thanks, Greg. I'm the type of person that really just was going to replace them either way. I don't want the smallest thing to be detrimental just because I was being lazy.
Great, added a couple of things to my previous post. Also that area you circled on the gasket, if you lay it on the motor and think about it, there is coolant on both sides of it there. If you've seen the original OEM head gaskets they were separate fire rings and an open design except for the oil galleys. They changed to the current design because they were easy to disturb and things moved around in service.

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post #191 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 09:55 AM
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sorry, missed it, what is offset of those wheels?
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post #192 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MDmilano88 View Post
Nice project. The lower control arm should be as level as possible. Richard Jemison sells dropped spindles that transform the handling on lowered cars.

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Last edited by Zinhead; 07-05-2017 at 01:33 PM.
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post #193 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 06:49 PM
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The stance is awesome but yeah if your gonna track it you need spindles. That A arm angle is gonna play havoc with your roll center.

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post #194 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-06-2017, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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sorry, missed it, what is offset of those wheels?
17x8
+20? I think. It's been a while. I'm using 6mm spacer in the front / 18mm adapter spacer in the rear
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post #195 of 199 (permalink) Old 07-06-2017, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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The stance is awesome but yeah if your gonna track it you need spindles. That A arm angle is gonna play havoc with your roll center.
I'll get to the drop spindles when I start doing some serious racing. I planned to keep driving the car on the street until I got a lot of the bugs out but you see what happened there...
Drop spindles and castor joints are next on the suspension list for sure.
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