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-   Milano/75 (1985-1993) (https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-1985-1993/)
-   -   Rear Brake Adjustment Tip (https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-1985-1993/202196-rear-brake-adjustment-tip.html)

Gubi 10-27-2012 10:13 PM

Rear Brake Adjustment Tip
 
Useful tip: after setting the rear pad clearances, leave the parking brake cable loose and pump the brakes a couple dozen times. Then adjust the cable to just take up the slack. This lets the self adjusters in the pistons do their job so the clearances are correct and the handbrake works in the right number of clicks.

I can't take credit for that one: I found it searching some other site a while back. But I tried it today and it does really seem to help in getting the parking brake to work properly first try.

Other stuff I've learned over the years doing this job:

-I've found it's easy to leave too much clearance. Basically what I do now is stick a .004" feeler gauge under each pad and crank down fairly snug on both adjusters until the gauges stay in place on their own. Then I tighten up the 17mm nut and pull the gauges out. As long as the wheel still spins freely after is the clearance should be good.

-It never hurts to do a quick bleed of each rear caliper after this job, and it may help.

Darth Verde 10-30-2012 09:21 PM

I'm going to do a brake job on my Verde pretty soon. Thanks for the info!

nizam 09-04-2017 08:57 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I had to do a brake adjustment this weekend and had to remind myself which way to turn the adjusters. I made this and taped it to the bottom of the car so I wouldn't have to make mistakes next time. :)

Gubi 09-04-2017 09:00 AM

Alfa did that one screw differently just to eff with us.

nizam 09-04-2017 09:28 AM

Or put it another way ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gubi (Post 7805722)
Alfa did that one screw differently just to eff with us.

"Alfa did that one adjuster different just to screw with us."

barboncino105 09-05-2017 06:27 AM

i always assumed it was ATE that did that one screw just to screw w us.

alfaloco 09-15-2017 09:35 AM

Good work there Nizam! Much appreciated. I'm printing it out too.

Mound Dawg 09-15-2017 05:24 PM

I never bother with feeler gauges, I just tighten the adjusters till the brakes drag then back them off slightly. Gives a good solid pedal and the e-brake operates on just a few clicks instead of ending up pointing at the roof!

slowcreek 07-21-2019 09:54 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I adjust mine the same way, but haven't tried gubi's trick. My problem is the adjustment doesn't stay. I've rebuilt the calipers, new rotors and pads.

Gubi 07-21-2019 10:30 PM

When you say the adjustment doesn’t stay, what do you mean?

Once you set them up properly you should not need to touch the adjustment screws again until the pads need replacing. If they don’t self adjust it’s possible you’re leaving too much clearance at the initial setup.

Try the tips I described above.

slowcreek 07-22-2019 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gubi (Post 8442248)
When you say the adjustment doesnít stay, what do you mean?

Once you set them up properly you should not need to touch the adjustment screws again until the pads need replacing. If they donít self adjust itís possible youíre leaving too much clearance at the initial setup.

Try the tips I described above.

I'm for sure gonna try those tips.

I'll adjust them, and they gradually go right back out of adjustment. The parkbrake travel increases with each application.....

svetoklik 08-09-2019 02:19 AM

My first post, so hi to everyone.

I have a AR 75 1.6 IE '92 year.
After a few mounts left on the parking I have experienced sinking brake pedal and poor breaking performance.

As started from the top, I have changed master cylinder than rubber line on the front left wheel so as the metal one right on the wheel and get much better braking force.
The next step was getting air out of system.
On the front wheels I get new breaking fluid out from valves so as at the rear ones but on the left wheel there is fluid coming out only from valve on the out side and on the right (passenger) wheel side is inverse. Only inner (first to the gear box) valve getting fluid out.

Hand brake is working with decent force only at the end and right wheel is almost without breaking force.
I have decent brakes now but at the maximum breaking force there is some movement rear end of the car to the left side.
What to do to get fluid form the all valves on the rear calipers and how to adjust hand brake?

slowcreek 08-09-2019 05:48 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Welcome!!

It's likely that the caliper that is exerting no force has a seized piston or two.

Have you adjusted the brake pad to rotor clearance using the adjusters pictured below?

svetoklik 08-09-2019 06:40 AM

No because everything worked before as it should.
If I get hand brake on rear right wheel is that mean that booth clips are moving but there is no
fluid in that right part of caliper so right clip is not moving?
Thanks for explanation. I will try that as last step because I am working on the parking with limited capacities.
If the valve is blocked than there will be no fluid out but there will be pressure
inside the caliper?
I have cleaned space around handbrake actuator on the caliper and it feels better but I will do it again and check to be sure about symptoms.
May I just try to put away only that right part of caliper because there is no real service here?
They will shoot at me and the car if I show up.

slowcreek 08-09-2019 07:18 AM

You have to get things to move in that one caliper.

Or, get a rebuilt one. Or rebuild it yourself. I've done that. Not fun!!!!


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