Fuel Pump not getting power - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
stefmiesterb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,397
Garage
Fuel Pump not getting power

Car was running fantastic, nw the fuel pump will not turn on. I used a battery to see if it was the pump, but then it ran and the car ran fine. Has this happened to anyone? If so do you know the cause? If no one had this happen before Im just going to have to track the power with a 12V tester, a tedious job.
stefmiesterb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 07:27 AM
Registered User
 
AR4me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,090
Could be a number of things, but start with checking output from dual L-Jet relay to fuel pump. The dual relay is mounted at the firewall in the vicinity of the coolant tank. If your car is stock you need to take off the black insulating "cover" (probably falls apart when you take it off) that goes across the engine bay "behind" engine. The pink/white wire powers fuel pump.
Jes

87 Milano Verde - daily driver -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- SOLD
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- SOLD
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car - Running again after 3 year hibernation...
(Repeating what I suggest or do, is at your own risk - be critical)
AR4me is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 10:14 AM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
GregSef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huntington, New York
Posts: 942
Garage
I would check the contact in the AFM that turns on when the flap sees the engine drawing air. (Cranking) I have had trouble with that. I am not sure of the pinout on the AFM connector but you can find it in the manuals, Craigs place is a good start. You can CAREFULLY use a soft object (pencil?) to move the flapper by going in through the air filter housing while using a multimeter to check it out for closure.

Good Luck.

1972 Berlina Vintage Racer, 1987 Milano Platinum (LeMons Car), 1982 GTV6 EP Race Car, 1974 GTV Vintage Race Car, 2012 VW GTI stage II, 1966 Corvette Coupe 327-350, 2007 Triumph T100 Bonneville. Dearly departed: 1971 Fiat 124 Spider, 1983 Saab 900 Turbo, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero, 1995 BMW 540i Sport, 2014 Audi A4 (swamped)
GregSef is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 12:47 PM
Registered User
 
racingswim2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 4,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefmiesterb View Post
Car was running fantastic, nw the fuel pump will not turn on. I used a battery to see if it was the pump, but then it ran and the car ran fine. Has this happened to anyone? If so do you know the cause? If no one had this happen before Im just going to have to track the power with a 12V tester, a tedious job.
I would call the "dealer" that sold you the car, they claimed to have replaced the fuel pump among other things.
Have you verified it is the correct pump, and that the wiring was properly replaced? You may want to see if they have a receipt for the work or document any "aftermarket" wiring.

Rob
Alfas first, then everything else.
racingswim2006 is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 05:14 PM
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
alfaparticle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 12,501
Troubleshoot it with logic rather than making (un)inspired guesses. Jes gives you good advice. Start at the combo relay. The pump should be powered by the relay while the starter is running and the relay will remain energized by the switch in the AFM, as Greg suggests. No power even when cranking and you may have a bad relay or no power to the relay. Power that drops off when you stop cranking could still be the relay but could also be the AFM switch. You can jump out switches, circuits, etc with those squeeze on cable splice devices that you use to hitch up trailer lights. That can be a good way of isolating the problem.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
alfaparticle is online now  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
stefmiesterb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,397
Garage
Problem Fixed

The air flow meter was stuck/bent so it doesnt open and close, new meter in works like a charm, thanks for all the help.
stefmiesterb is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
My GTV6 1985 model year has lost power to the fuel pump and cannot find the cause. Where is the inertia switch located as orriginal diagrams show it to be at the right inner mud panel, but my car has the coil placed there.Help please !!!
dastorer is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 11:15 AM
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
alfaparticle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 12,501
Your car does not have an inertia switch. Read the posts above about checking the combo relay, AFM switch, etc

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
alfaparticle is online now  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 11:23 PM
Del
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: seattle
Posts: 15,041
Also remember that in many cases the dual relay can be fixed if it stops working. The 30 ohm resistor inside tends to fail, but can be replaced with little trouble and almost no cost. Have fixed three for this already for a total cost of a buck.

Del

Seattle

1989 Milano, Shankle Sport
1991 164S, stock
1994 164LS (~Q)
1972 Morgan 27

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6
Del is online now  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 02:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hurlingham Buenos Aires Argentina
Posts: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Del View Post
Also remember that in many cases the dual relay can be fixed if it stops working. The 30 ohm resistor inside tends to fail, but can be replaced with little trouble and almost no cost. Have fixed three for this already for a total cost of a buck.
Del, that´s interesting, I currently have a shot dual relay and had to by pass it with a direct cable and a cabin switch, somewhat crude but allows me to move the car, until I find the replacement. Mine is a 75 2,5L Quadrifoglio, rarer than an astronaut in Argentina and a little more advice from the electronic guys is much welcome...Is it worthwhile to order a new relay from Bosch? Is it cheap? Does it come in any other car as OE? Bear in mind that the offending part is proudly marked Made in Germany...

Thanks a lot,

Sevendriver
Sevendriver is offline  
post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 05:09 PM
Del
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: seattle
Posts: 15,041
They are available, but are expensive, running about $110+ in the US. Take yours, carefully pop the housing off and see the little resistor on the circuit board, along with 3 diodes I think. You can remove/unsolder the resistor and check it. I think it should be about 30 ohms according to the colored rings on it, but if failed, it will probably read about 2-3 ohms. Replace it with a new one of about 30-33 ohms. If the resistor was the problem, the relay should work now. I repaired three this way for about $1.

Yes, Bosch electrical stuff is poorly made these days. Been nothing but trouble, but still quite expensive.

good luck,

Del

Seattle

1989 Milano, Shankle Sport
1991 164S, stock
1994 164LS (~Q)
1972 Morgan 27

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6

Last edited by Del; 03-06-2010 at 05:11 PM.
Del is online now  
post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 04:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hurlingham Buenos Aires Argentina
Posts: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Del View Post
They are available, but are expensive, running about $110+ in the US. Take yours, carefully pop the housing off and see the little resistor on the circuit board, along with 3 diodes I think. You can remove/unsolder the resistor and check it. I think it should be about 30 ohms according to the colored rings on it, but if failed, it will probably read about 2-3 ohms. Replace it with a new one of about 30-33 ohms. If the resistor was the problem, the relay should work now. I repaired three this way for about $1.

Yes, Bosch electrical stuff is poorly made these days. Been nothing but trouble, but still quite expensive.

good luck,
Thanks a lot Del, since I am not an electronics bloke, I think I´ll try convincing someone with the desired skills to do the job for me.

Anyway, my mechanic told me that certain Mercedes cars were equipped with the same relay, maybe anyone from BB can tell which Mercedes+

Regards from Argentina,

Sevendriver
Sevendriver is offline  
post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 07:26 PM
Registered User
 
WETPRICKLES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tasmania Australia
Posts: 18
Send a message via Skype™ to WETPRICKLES
Does your fuel pump have a seperate fuse somewhere.

Similar problem with my Alfa 90 V6, on a tight uphill corner the car stalls at 70 km/h and dies. Will restart briefly but stalls straight away. With key on and AFM open, relay clicks but fuel pump not working.
Double check all the fuses in the fuse box and test O.K.
Applying 12V direct to fuel pump makes it work. No Voltage at pink /white wire under double relay with AFM open. Add 12V to pink / white wire and pump works, Tried a second hand Relay, but makes no difference! Make up a switch and power it from below the coolant bottle where power for starter is and can switch it on when I need to drive car. Swap fuel pump. No difference. Take her round to Auto Electrician and he finds broken fuse on out-side of relay case near the battery, renews fuse, fuse holder and length of wire, does his errands for the day in her for a test drive- all O.K and rings me to pick her up. So I take her for drive and get about two kilometres out of the speed limit and fuse blows again. At least I have switch in place to get me back to sparky’s shop. More delays as he tries to find time to have another look. Few days later he rings and asks me to take her for another test drive as they could find nothing wrong. On test drive she just dies at the same spot. More delays, days go by, rings with good news,… come drive her again. This time success. Exhaust clamp is rubbing on wiring and causing a short on occasional bumpy corners. Cause?
I had an exhaust shop fit a new centre muffler section and they did a terrible job fitting it. Cut off the slip fitting and welded it to the cat converter. Left off the brackets above the axel and on tight right hand corners the exhaust clamp was hitting the fuel pump wiring and shorting it out. Blowing the fuse.

I ran out of steering lock, ran out of revs, ran out of road and ran out of talent!
WETPRICKLES is offline  
post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 10:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Antonio, Tejas
Posts: 171
Send a message via AIM to m4ff3w Send a message via MSN to m4ff3w Send a message via Yahoo to m4ff3w
The fusible link near the battery, is that standard on US models as well?

-matthew
'87 Milano Gold
m4ff3w is offline  
post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 10:35 AM
Registered User
 
crashmctavish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 738
My 75 2.0 Twin spark motor suffered a supply failure due to the thermostat housing leaking antifreeze on the loom connector plug just below the inlet plenum. It rotted out the brass connection in the terminal block, (pink white wire).
I always carry a length of wire in the glove box & can patch direct from the battery to the loom when required!

[I]Regards Keith, GTJ Twin Spark[/I]
crashmctavish is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome