Battery in the trunk - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Well I can report back...it's been about 18 months since I installed a Odessey PC925 in the boot with 1 guage cable and I have experienced no problems with it at all. It gets my thumbs up for a neat solution.

I run two electric fans on my radiator, which collectively draw about 15-20 amps and the fans are themostatically activated to stay on after the car has stopped running to prevent heat soak
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 07:09 AM
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Great, that looks like the one for me as well. Where did you end up fitting the battery - would be interested to see a photo if you can be bothered! Matt


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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 06:22 AM
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This is a very conservative installation, that is not finished, so some wires fly around.
The cables are long enough to pull the battery to a convenient position.
The holder can be opened without tools and swings away, so noting falls down, has to be repositioned, hooked in place or fiddled in. May save your back...

The voltage drop is in fact lower than with the old installation (!!!) because anything is new and soldered at the ends, screwed to clean metal and corrosion free.
The wire used is not much more diameter than stock, but a far better quality, basically made for welding.
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 06:23 AM
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Two more battpics
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 08:22 AM
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One thing that caught my eye: The battery hold-down seems very close to the + terminal. Some vibration, the battery & hold-down shifting a bit, and there could be trouble. At a minimum I would wrap the hold-down with an insulating material (say a section of bicycle inner tube) to prevent the risk of a short. Or simply position the hold-down a few mm lower relative to the battery.
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 03:43 AM
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Sorry,
my intend was to show how a stock battery fits in the trunk with a straight forward installation, making live easy.

This is the minus terminal, even as the insulation got a tiny red stripe. The bolt has no + sign, but can be turned by a Phillips screw driver.
As I wrote, this was still under construction, with wires hanging around when I took the pictures. The negative terminals got another connection later.
So finally, the cable points in the other direction, not even coming near it.

You canīt see it well on the pictures, because I had to take them from a lowered position. The optical problem is called is parallax.

Even if you turn the terminals around, there is still some air, about 10 mm are build into the hold down bar to make it fool proof. You can see the the part providing this distance riveted to the bar as it lies on the work bench. Last, the aluminum is heavily anodized, so it does not conduct current. So it really would be hard to do make any contact, at last by accident.
But you are right, I could put some shrink over it to make it look more important and even protect it from any dilettantish try to jump start the car.
The battery is protected by 150 A fuse from a Alfa 147. So even a catastrophic short at the starter is protected. I donīt like cars toasted...

The whole mount is much stronger then the stock one in the engine bay ever was. The owner wanted to keep the spare tire, maximum room in the boot and does not race this car (yet). With a race car the battery belongs into the spare wheel well, as deep as possible.
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 04:08 AM
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The rear 'shelf' is a perfect spot for a battery - my only concern was that for me to man handle a standard battery to that place would aggravate my already dodgy back! I did design a 'swinging arm' so that the battery could be swung out (and easily accessed but I am now much more in favour of fitting the Odyssey PC925. Still I've go to finish the engine bay yet!!


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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 09:51 AM
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You can get the same result the way I did it with a bit longer battery cables.
The hard part is to fit the battery poles, but this is done conveniently at the trunk floor.
To get the battery up the step is no pain in the back, because you have your elbows at the bottom and only lift it up a few inches.
With a tiny dry battery you only need a belt or even some Velcro to secure it at the rear.

If you go for the real race batteries, you may consider a quick change connection, as they are so small and low in weight, you can put them in your pocket. These lithium phosphate cells give 200A (600A pulse) and weight 1.75kg/ less than 4 lbs.
So a real pain saver! This is a already a large one, because even a 7AH/ 210A/ 380A /1.15kg version will easily start your car. They are a bit expensive, but about 500$ for a 10 lbs weight saving may be a cheap option for some.
These technology is getting cheaper by the hour, in one or two years there will be no more lead cells on any track.

The lead dry battery from Odyssey and others are much heavier, about 6kg for such starting power.

The PC925 is 24 lbs/11kg and no race, but a automotive AGM battery with huge a reserve. It is not much lighter than a cheap 36/40AH wet battery.
It may not really be needed on a car like the Alfa, as there is always much more current produced than needed, even with a small alternator.
It is more a psychological cause than technical demand to use such large batteries.

I have run a V8 on a 17AH back up battery for weeks, until I found out the main battery was disconnected...
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