Welding lower valance question - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Welding lower valance question

I am about to reattach the nose to my 1968 smooth nose GTV. I am trying to figure out how/where the factory welded on the lower valance to the rad cross member.

thanks in advance,
-Jack
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 02:47 PM
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Sorry I'm no help as I'm not familiar with the 105 yet, just wanted to say really nice work so much attention to detail.
Are you using a spot welder, if so what model .
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 03:14 PM
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I am about to reattach the nose to my 1968 smooth nose GTV. I am trying to figure out how/where the factory welded on the lower valance to the rad cross member.

thanks in advance,
-Jack
Jack, the lower nose was spot welded to the rad support with a series of welds where you have your clico clamps from one side to the other.

That space is a notorious dirt catcher which then holds moisture and leads to rust. The factory water channels, that can be seen in your picture, just do not do the job.

I have often wondered if it would be better to space the 2 panels apart with a non metallic spacer so that it can be hosed out periodically. Using a spacer also maintains the coating integrity where as a weld is sure to destroy it. I have also considered just pop riveting the 2 parts together, ala GTA, perhaps with glue; better for the panel coating.

Fwiw

Ken

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 11:28 PM
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Good idea Ken, you could put some rivnuts into the radiator support and then use countersunk bolts with spacers to secure and separate the two panels.....Not sure what the aerodynamic implications would be?? Plus, with all these 105 builds I don't think they're going to be left outdoors to collect much rust creating gunk.......
I'd spot weld as Ken advised and just use an air gun to blow out that area after every wash.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018, 01:16 AM
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1750GT solved the issue you guys are discussing by making the drain indentations longer, therefore ensuring they actually do drain. From the factory the drain indentations are simply too short. Amusingly I suggested this to 1750GT, but never did this to my own car (yet) ... lol

And yes, just spot weld along the rear of the valence where you have your clicos, after closing your chassis rails and building the anti-roll bar mounting area.
Pete

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by maire View Post
Sorry I'm no help as I'm not familiar with the 105 yet, just wanted to say really nice work so much attention to detail.
Are you using a spot welder, if so what model .

Thank you,

Im using a miller LMSW-52T....not cheap as I just found out. Thankfully I have access to one for now.

If you want to check out the rest of the project it's here

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1...v-project.html
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Those are all good ideas, It would be very cool to detach the bottom for cleaning.

I don't think I want the look of rivnuts or rivets on the valance.(I've already had to take too many off the old rust repairs)

I remember seeing 1750GT's modifications which were very nice but I think Ill try to keep it clean some how. I have everything epoxy painted... It will all burn off I'm sure but I have some Eastwood internal frame coating with a long nozzle. I think that might be the best I can do without some serious modification.
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