New owner 1974 GTV has no idea what he got himself into - Page 8 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #106 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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The best place for used parts is Alfa Parts Exchange near Tracy, CA. If Jon Norman at Alfa Parts in Berkeley can't get an OEM part it likely doesn't exist.

Centerline in Colorado is my default for most parts, or Vicks in Texas.

I like those Stoptech pads. I just put a set on a 2004 Mustang GT with mushy brakes and they did wonders. I have a set for my Berlina waiting to go on.

7x15 wheels will look great, but get the suspension done first or they will magnify every issues. I had 7x15 wheels on my Berlina and went back to 5.5x14 because I liked the way they drove better. I will likely go up a notch to 6x14 as a compromise.

Enjoy!
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give Alfa Parts a call first I think. The stock wheels are in poor condition and would have to be refinished. I also need new tires all around so given that I have to spend money regardless, I'd rather put it towards something I will actually enjoy. The suspension work will come first though!
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post #107 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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My personal preference would be the Harvey Bailey handling kit from Classic Alfa. I've fitted three of these now on my current, and previous two 105's and prefer this kit to the Alfaholics one on a friends car. He actually prefers it too.
Again, my preference for authentic looks would be the 7 x 14" GTA replica wheels. With these you can fit a 185 x 70 x 14" tyre and have a more period look, whilst filling the wheelarches nicely. I don't know about the availability of good 14" tyres in the USA, but here in the UK we still have a huge choice of excellent road tyres in 14". eg. Avon, Continental, Vredestein etc. If you're not considering serious track time in the future, then these are more than good enough, and cheaper too. On my last two cars I've had a set of 14" Conti's fitted, and a set of 15" Avons on the TZ1 wheels on the Sedan, for 200 all in.
Also you'll get a better, more compliant ride with 70 series tyres rather than 55 series.
Never heard of the brake pads you mention, I fit either Ferodo or Mintex.
Show us a pic of your calipers so that we can assess what you need.
The steering bits you mention are all available from Classic Alfa or Alfaholics, EB Spares , Highwood etc, but I guess you'll have a source in the States too.
Of course, all of the above is my personal preference.
Steve
I saw the Harvey Bailey kit on CA but the alfaholics package is more complete and as I need to replace pretty much everything, that makes my life just a little easier. For some of these things, I just have to try it out and see where things land from a personal preference perspective. Thank you for your suggestions

I have attached photos of the brake calipers. I assume they are stock?
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post #108 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 10:23 AM
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Hey im down the street n owner of a 67 GTV thats heavily modded, 63 spider & a 91 spider
67 & 91 both run the AH suspensions
I use Phil Mason in Santa Cruz for all my race n street work, not pretty, but technically gifted imo
got any questions, track me down
Cheers
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post #109 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 11:40 AM
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Bearings are easy. That was the first mechanical thing I did to my first car many years ago. It's a great place to start. On 2nd gear, just pause when going from 1st to 2nd and shift slow, no drag racing for now when downshifting again go slow, try and get the motor at the same rpm as the transmission, it's a feel you'll develop the more you drive it, heck, you don't even need a clutch when you get it right.
Jack the front up and spin the wheel with the bad bearing, grab the wheel and see how it feels when pushing and pulling on the top and bottom, front and rear.
Bent tie rods? do you have a photo? If they are really bent it should be chewing up the front tires or there are no threads showing on the tie rod ends or they are all the way out showing lots of threads.

The passenger seat is 15 miles an hour faster than the drivers seat.

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the ones that got away:
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1962 Giulietta Spider normale
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post #110 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 11:54 AM
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I'm a bit confused as brake pads I see in other places for the GTV have a square shape while these look trapezoidal.
Oh those places never use photos that are the exact part - they just run a generic brake pad photo for everything. Yea, GT pads are rectangular (F) or square (R) - not trapezoidal.

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Steering: the drag link and the outer track rods are bent and need to be replaced. What is a good place to order such stock parts from?
How on earth could those links have gotten bent? Alfaholics sell new links with tie rod ends for 105, which seems cheap when you consider that you are getting six, new rod ends. See: https://www.alfaholics.com/parts/105...track-rod-kit/.

Closer to home, Alfa Parts Exchange in Tracy would certainly have used parts. They are the same for all 105 Sprints/Spiders/Sedans, so APE should have mountains of them.

I hate to keep sounding like a nag; but between the broken spring, bad wheel bearings, and now bent tie rods, I really wouldn't drive this car except to the repair shop.
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'63 Guilia spider
'65 Guilia Sprint GT
'67 Duetto
'91 164L

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post #111 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 11:55 AM
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I have attached photos of the brake calipers. I assume they are stock?
Yes they look like stock 2000 calipers.

Bearings are easy, provided you have the correct tools, the main one being a brass drift of around 3/8" diameter and say min 10" long to remove the old ones. It needs to be brass so you don't mark or bruise the internal diameters of the hub, that the outer part of the two bearings either presses into, or is tapped into.
I've changed loads of wheel bearings on the front of rear wheel drive cars in my lifetime, and have never used a press yet.

Steve
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post #112 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gigem75 View Post
Bearings are easy. That was the first mechanical thing I did to my first car many years ago. It's a great place to start. On 2nd gear, just pause when going from 1st to 2nd and shift slow, no drag racing for now when downshifting again go slow, try and get the motor at the same rpm as the transmission, it's a feel you'll develop the more you drive it, heck, you don't even need a clutch when you get it right.
Jack the front up and spin the wheel with the bad bearing, grab the wheel and see how it feels when pushing and pulling on the top and bottom, front and rear.
Bent tie rods? do you have a photo? If they are really bent it should be chewing up the front tires or there are no threads showing on the tie rod ends or they are all the way out showing lots of threads.
Regarding the shifting, going slow definitely works. It's when I try to get cute and do a proper double clutch is where I screw things up for now

I have attached photos of the 3 rods. It's not as clear in the pictures but all three pieces are bent in some direction or another. The left front (where the frame is bent) tracks a bit further forward compared to the rear (basically, when you put your fingers between the wheel well at the 10 o'clock position, there is about 2cm less space on the driver side than on the passenger side. Now, how much of this is due to the frame or just to the alignment issues, I guess I'll find out....
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post #113 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GTA R View Post
Yes they look like stock 2000 calipers.

Bearings are easy, provided you have the correct tools, the main one being a brass drift of around 3/8" diameter and say min 10" long to remove the old ones. It needs to be brass so you don't mark or bruise the internal diameters of the hub, that the outer part of the two bearings either presses into, or is tapped into.
I've changed loads of wheel bearings on the front of rear wheel drive cars in my lifetime, and have never used a press yet.

Steve
Right tool for the job is key.. and of course I have little in the way of tools. Luckily a neighbor basically inherited his uncle's shop tools so I hope that will get me squared away.
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post #114 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 12:48 PM
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I have attached photos of the 3 rods. It's not as clear in the pictures but all three pieces are bent in some direction or another.
I do not like what I'm seeing here:

This center link is really bent:



There can't be many threads engaged on the left outer rod end shown in this photo:

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Jay Mackro
San Juan Capistrano, CA

'63 Guilia spider
'65 Guilia Sprint GT
'67 Duetto
'91 164L

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post #115 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Oh those places never use photos that are the exact part - they just run a generic brake pad photo for everything. Yea, GT pads are rectangular (F) or square (R) - not trapezoidal.
So the stoptech pads are the right ones?
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post #116 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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I do not like what I'm seeing here:

This center link is really bent:

There can't be many threads engaged on the left outer rod end shown in this photo:
Wonder how old that damage is. Does it go back to the original shunt? But if it was truly bad, how could the car have been driven what looks like for decades afterwards? That is what I pin my hopes on. In the photo of the old engine mount, you can see the frame buckling to the front of the car in the left hand of the picture above the engine mount. I also attached the photos of the front wheels so you can see the difference in the gap between the tire and wheel arch.

Putting in a completely new suspension package will likely throw off whatever alignment the car had (it felt ok with a slight pull to the left) but the bent rods are no basis to build on. I'll ask if alfaholics can add those rods to the suspension package for me, would be simplest approach for me.
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post #117 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 01:55 PM
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AH can, just have to ask for the center link to be included. I put in the track pkg and 2.25" spring kit on both my race and street car, works great.
Id be concerned with the shunt as well, especially if you see damage to inner body. Be worth taking to a frame shop and checking frame alignment and getting a pull to straighten out before installing and realigning new suspension. BHCC finds some dooseys, but its all fixable. Locally contact Larry Dickman at APE, Tom Sahines, Glenn Olivera or Phil Mason. Save a lot of head scratching having someone who is intimate with these cars take a real look and giving it to you straight before you go off the deep end. Freeman Frame in San Jose is another great resource alignment wise, old school but accurate.
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post #118 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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AH can, just have to ask for the center link to be included. I put in the track pkg and 2.25" spring kit on both my race and street car, works great.
Id be concerned with the shunt as well, especially if you see damage to inner body. Be worth taking to a frame shop and checking frame alignment and getting a pull to straighten out before installing and realigning new suspension. BHCC finds some dooseys, but its all fixable. Locally contact Larry Dickman at APE, Tom Sahines, Glenn Olivera or Phil Mason. Save a lot of head scratching having someone who is intimate with these cars take a real look and giving it to you straight before you go off the deep end. Freeman Frame in San Jose is another great resource alignment wise, old school but accurate.
Have you worked with Rich at Continental Motors in Sunnyvale? That's where I had taken the car.

I'm confused on what the better sequence is now, install the full suspension first, then go to the alignment shop (Freeman Frame would be my choice as I'm in SJ as well), or go there first? It'll be a couple weeks before I get the parts anyhow..
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post #119 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Alfajay View Post
I do not like what I'm seeing here:

This center link is really bent:



There can't be many threads engaged on the left outer rod end shown in this photo:

That front suspension is not safe to drive, it took a shot, all those rods are compromised to repeat Alfajay... there is quite a bit going on with this vehicle for a first time Alfa Owner, I wish you well...
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post #120 of 259 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 02:33 PM
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I'm confused on what the better sequence is now, install the full suspension first, then go to the alignment shop (Freeman Frame would be my choice as I'm in SJ as well), or go there first?
There might be some benefit in visiting Freeman Frame and asking them this question. What you don't want to do is bolt on all those shiny, new AH parts, and then have Freeman wrap chains around them and apply 75 tons of force. Or tell you that the whole front suspension needs to come off so they can get at that crossmember.

If Freeman wants to pull the unibody straight before you bolt on the AH parts, you will need to re-visit the alignment shop after the installation to set the caster and toe-in (and camber if you get adjustable upper links). But two trips to the alignment shop is a small inconvenience compared with having your new tires wear out in a few thousand miles.
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Jay Mackro
San Juan Capistrano, CA

'63 Guilia spider
'65 Guilia Sprint GT
'67 Duetto
'91 164L
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