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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Centerline Electronic Distributor

Some months ago, I ordered the ID405 from Centerline. It's their electronic ignition distributor that takes the place of the old points condenser unit. I ordered it because their distributor looks original but has the added benefit of being electronic (no gap adjustment, etc.) Centerline no longer has them and has no date on when they'll be available.

Here's my question. Are there any other good alternatives out there that will work well and look original and have a good advance curve?

Follow link here for Centerline's distributor if you want to read up on it.

Many thanks.

Dale Thomas - 1969 1750 GTV
Summerville, South Carolina
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dale View Post
Some months ago, I ordered the ID405 from Centerline. It's their electronic ignition distributor that takes the place of the old points condenser unit. I ordered it because their distributor looks original but has the added benefit of being electronic (no gap adjustment, etc.) Centerline no longer has them and has no date on when they'll be available.

Here's my question. Are there any other good alternatives out there that will work well and look original and have a good advance curve?

Follow link here for Centerline's distributor if you want to read up on it.

Many thanks.
They used to make them from Bosch 009 distributors, but I think those are finally out of production. The distributor is a bit too short and requires an extended gog (cannot be seen in the picture). The points were replaced with the Compufire 21100 module. For details, see the Compufire website.

I had mine modified by a guy that hops up VWs. All I had him do was to increase the total advance. I never bothered the springs as it seemed to work fine in my Alfetta.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 09:22 AM
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There is a programmable electronic distributor which has the unfortunate name of 123. www.123ignition.nl It implies that no 4 won't receive attention. However I believe that it is worth investigating. Made in Holland I believe. It is direct replacement for a Lucas number and thus will fit our cars. No relationship to the mfg

Stuart
'57 Spider Veloce, '57 Lightweight, '60 SZ, '76 2000 Spider. '60 Sprint
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 09:42 AM
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ALFA1750 - the ebay guy in Italy that sellers Webers, has been listing Bosch electronic ignitions. I think that they have been going for about $100.
Ed Prytherch
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 10:18 AM
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Centerline Distributors Will Be Available Again Soon!

Just to clarify; Centerline will have the ID405 available again soon. Dale is correct, I can't give an exact date but it should be within a few weeks.

We are being thorough in checking out the performance of the new distributor body used to manufacture these. This involves making tiny adjustments and testing the finished product on a distributor machine - very time consuming.

Joe
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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While Centerline works out their source issues, I'd like to get a nice electronic system with a good curve.

Who's got the best?

Dale Thomas - 1969 1750 GTV
Summerville, South Carolina
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 03:56 AM
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centerline distributor

Anyone else have a problem seating the centerline distributor shaft? My old Marelli shaft seems to be a bit narrower (especially where the centerline's version has a rubber "0" ring and I can't seem to get the centerline down all the way to where the 2 teeth engage. If all else fails I'll call them tomorrow but was hoping to go to a local alfa brunch today. Any help would be appreciated.
John
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 04:28 AM
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still working on my coffee but--I have the centerline dizzy in my 1750 spider. Put the o ring in the block--not the distributor shaft and coat it with grease or whatever you can find slippery. use hand pressure to force it down while carefully tightening the hold down nut. Don't use just the nut to bring it down as it can **** sideways and possibly strip the stud. Wiggle the rotor button to make sure the dog gear engages as you pull it down. After running for a while and getting everything warm, check the holdown nut to make sure it's tight. I'm pleased with it--I set it full advance (M) about 4500 on the 1750.

Apparently I can't use the word for a male chicken to describe the off-center effect

Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by flivesay View Post
still working on my coffee but--I have the centerline dizzy in my 1750 spider. Put the o ring in the block--not the distributor shaft and coat it with grease or whatever you can find slippery. use hand pressure to force it down while carefully tightening the hold down nut. Don't use just the nut to bring it down as it can **** sideways and possibly strip the stud. Wiggle the rotor button to make sure the dog gear engages as you pull it down. After running for a while and getting everything warm, check the holdown nut to make sure it's tight. I'm pleased with it--I set it full advance (M) about 4500 on the 1750.

Apparently I can't use the word for a male chicken to describe the off-center effect
Thanks Flivesay. But won't the o-ring snap back into place in the distributor shaft indentation (where it is now) as I'm pushing the shaft into the block?

John
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 04:54 AM
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Thanks Flivesay. But won't the o-ring snap back into place in the distributor shaft indentation (where it is now) as I'm pushing the shaft into the block?

John
I don't have one in front of me but yeah-- it would. But when it does, it should be close to being seated. The new o ring is fat and stiff. If you can get the holdown nut started, you should be able to carefully pull it down while compressing the o ring. If I remember correctly, putting the o ring on the shaft first, kept it from entering the block groove and didn't give enough clrarance to start the nut and put pressure on the o ring.

Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by flivesay View Post
I don't have one in front of me but yeah-- it would. But when it does, it should be close to being seated. The new o ring is fat and stiff. If you can get the holdown nut started, you should be able to carefully pull it down while compressing the o ring. If I remember correctly, putting the o ring on the shaft first, kept it from entering the block groove and didn't give enough clrarance to start the nut and put pressure on the o ring.
Right now I don't even have the hold down collar on so I can eliminate anything that might be interfering with proper seating. Just to be sure we're talking about the same o ring, I've added an arrow to the centerline picture below (sorry JoeCab for any copyright issues).

Do I even need this o ring? I don't believe I had one on the Marelli.
John
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 05:18 AM
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[QUOTE=

Do I even need this o ring? I don't believe I had one on the Marelli.
John[/QUOTE]

I believe you do need it to keep oil where it's supposed to be and possibly any loose play out of the distributor. Is it only the o ring keeping you from seating? Will it seat without the o ring and the clamp while engaging the dog gear?

Frank Livesay Huntsville, AL
Green Alfa - 68 Canadian 1750 Spider Veloce (driver)
White Alfa - 68 Euro 1750 GTV (needs a refresh)
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 05:19 AM
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John,
Head for the AROC-CT brunch in your daily driver.

Bob Cess
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'60 Giulietta Berlina
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by flivesay View Post
I believe you do need it to keep oil where it's supposed to be and possibly any loose play out of the distributor. Is it only the o ring keeping you from seating? Will it seat without the o ring and the clamp while engaging the dog gear?
I have not messed with the o-ring at all for fear of overstretching it. However, I face little resistance when advancing the shaft until I reach the o-ring. With more force, I may be able to get past it. However, I'd like to feel that reassuring "click" as the dog teeth fall into their notches. I can't be exactly sure about alignment without doing a little twisting of the rotor. Although I marked the position of the old rotor and distributor body at TDC before removing, it seems the relationship between the plane of the new rotor and dog teeth is different, so I wouldn't feel comfortable using securing plate to force the distributor into place. Right now I can't get the distributor deep enough to even feel confident that the dog teeth are even contacting the slot they should fit into. I guess I'll keep playing around with it. Heck, I've only lost a few grams of skin from my hands and about a half cc of blood--I'm just getting started


John,
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-09-2009, 05:38 AM
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