Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly - Page 22 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #316 of 425 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to two kind and car-obsessed neighbors (their fleet includes two NSXs a LS powered RSX and a '66 Chevelle SS 396) we got the front glass installed in about 90 seconds. Maybe less. Easy when you know how!
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post #317 of 425 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 01:39 PM
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post #318 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly

How good is the fit of the seal on the perimeter of the splash guards to the body on your cars? I believe the rear of the front wheel well splashguard is a somewhat important part of corrosion control? I have waxoyle that cavity back there but don't want to invite problems. I am using aluminum replacement splash guards from one of the European suppliers I can't remember which.

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post #319 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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Huh, did the factory use rivets to attach these panels? I have mine all in place now, using SS sheet metal screws. Seems like maintaining future access isn't a terrible idea (check for small animals, corrosion).
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post #320 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 06:55 AM
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In terms of real world practicality, yes, retain the panels with screws, unless you never drive through mud and never anticipate having to replace a side marker light.
This juncture of sheet metal pieces is well known as a spot to foster corrosion brought about by leaves, mud, etc. collecting at the bottom. I've had an AMHIK experience in this matter.
Do yourself a favor and make sure there is ample room for drainage. I make sure it is clear every time I wash the car, and I don't drive in the rain or on dirt roads with it.
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post #321 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 09:33 AM
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How good is the fit of the seal on the perimeter of the splash guards to the body on your cars? I believe the rear of the front wheel well splashguard is a somewhat important part of corrosion control? I have waxoyle that cavity back there but don't want to invite problems. I am using aluminum replacement splash guards from one of the European suppliers I can't remember which.
We are talking about Alfa Romeo here, these parts did not make the car go faster or handle better ... so little effort was put into them
Pete

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post #322 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Ha - fair enough. I whack/bang/bent these into shape and now recommend the alum replacements quite highly. Very easy to fettle, will not rust, added lightness!

I thoroughly waxoyl'd the area to the rear of the wheel and will give it a look every now and then.

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post #323 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 09:48 AM
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Ha - fair enough. I whack/bang/bent these into shape and now recommend the alum replacements quite highly. Very easy to fettle, will not rust, added lightness!

I thoroughly waxoyl'd the area to the rear of the wheel and will give it a look every now and then.
Can you weld aluminium?, might be a good idea (now that we are not only worried about performance) to add some to the shape to make them fit better?

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post #324 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Can I ? I can not. Well I take that back I probably remember how to but don't have access to a TIG anymore.

If anything I think the best mod would be removing the rubber portion (it's stapled), adding a longer more flexible profile and then trimming that where it can't be compressed to fit.

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post #325 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 12:00 PM
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How good is the fit of the seal on the perimeter of the splash guards to the body on your cars? I believe the rear of the front wheel well splashguard is a somewhat important part of corrosion control?

I took mine off last spring and so I got a good look at how they were originally fitted. My Super is very original and the splash guard area had obviously never been touched. The fit of the flash guard was much closer than yours, I'm afraid, and was held in place with sheet-metal screws. As I recall, there was no evidence of sealant on the rubber gasket nor was there any evidence of moisture, dirt, or rust in this critical area. So the flush fit was obviously critical. When I put it back on, I used some additional sheet-metal screws just to be on the safe side. The fit was again uniformly flush, however.

Taking the splash guard off was a pretty interesting experience in itself because I found myself looking at an inner panel that had been sealed for 45 years. The inner fender had been painted body color and so I was surprised at how my compounding efforts had restored the 45 year old outsides to very closely match the original color that I found in the sealed panel. This is a testament to the quality of Alfa's single-stage enamel paint.

Re: Inside plastic door sheets. I abandoned trying to attach these with any kind of glue which I found messy and gave me less confidence that it would actually keep water out of my car. Instead, I switched to using duct-tape to seal the plastic sheet edges to the door sheet-metal. This is remarkably easy to do, is waterproof, and and can easily be removed when you need to do so.
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post #326 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have an extra cowl grommet or know of w source?

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post #327 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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post #328 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 09:08 PM
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post #329 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 03:00 PM
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Have you completely rewired the lights via relays?

I'm thinking about doing that as well but I would have preferred to keep them inside the cabin, but I aint sure how to get the cable to the front the same route where they were before.

Learning, learning..
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post #330 of 425 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Yup. My battery is in the rear so I bring the main B+ to the starter, then an 8ga (I think, can't recall) to the new 4 position fuse box and another 8ga from there to the alternator.

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