68 GTV Dashboard Restoration - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Indicator question

One question for any viewers. Can someone tell me the correct color and location for the indicators (euro 68' 1750)? In my box of parts I had the two signal ones, a red, green and blue. Looking at images on-line I've seen almost every combination. Looking at the blanks in my dash it looks like I should have one on each side of the gauges as I did - green on the left and blue on the right. Is there a red one as well? As I acquired this car disassembled I don't have a good reference to start nor do I think all the parts I have came from this car (e.g. the red light)

I'll check my car disk but I think it would be handy to hear more from some experts here.

68' Parisian Alfa GTV 1750

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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 11:51 PM
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Thanks for the complements. There were many moments when I realized I needed to start over and that was ..well depressing but I persevered. The foam is 2 part liquid urethane of a n 8lb density but its not a good match for the original foam as it has no give. I'd do some more research here but it worked OK for me as I added an additional layer on top of it (1/8" Closed Cell White 2A Volara Landau Foam Roof Padding off ebay) This is the white foam and it has some give and flexibility that I think will be a good underlayment/isolator for the vinyl.

At the back of the gauge pods I cut a slot for the vinyl to tuck into (both for the gauges and the top). One could stitch it here as well but I think it would be very hard to get it to look right as I needed to stretch the vinyl a lot to cover the curves of the pods and its hard to predict where you will end up. The tuck method is very clean - just cut a smooth slot in the foam trim the edges so there is a little extra and push it into the slot with a putty knife. I attached a photo that shows this better but it is the same method as what you can see beneath the gauges.

Note using this method I owe to another as I saw the pictures of their job and copied the approach.
I got it, thanks for the explanation. I think they look as perfect as it gets, better without the stitch. For now, project like that is beyond
my skills and would take me forever.
Maybe some day....for now I need to put back intake manifold with soft mounts and stock air box. Seeing projects like this helps me keep moving forward
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Current Alfas:

2018 Stelvio Ti Sport
1987 Milano Verde
1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750

Refreshing 1750 GTV
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-18-2015, 07:41 PM
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Your information is correct according to the documentation I have - green goes on the left of the instrument cluster, blue on the right, and the turn signal indicators in between. I don't think the '68s used a red one.

1968 Euro-spec 1750 GTV (still under restoration)
1973 2000 Spider
1979 Alfetta Sprint Veloce
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Your information is correct according to the documentation I have - green goes on the left of the instrument cluster, blue on the right, and the turn signal indicators in between. I don't think the '68s used a red one.
Perfect. I guessed right! The dash metal gave me some clues on the location at least.

68' Parisian Alfa GTV 1750
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 11:57 AM
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I am going to try my hand on a 67 GTV dashboard. It appears to be made out of some sort of particle/card board.
Do you know anything about this material? what it is? how to patch? etc?
Thanks
Tom
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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I am not sure about a 67' 68-69 had a specific style that differs from earlier or later. The construction of mine was medium density foam molded over a metal frame and covered with vinyl. The vinyl covering uses a thermal vacuum process which I avoided by using stitching for the curvy areas. The wood is just a veneer.

The step nose dashes may use a similar construction but I think the wood is a special type of vinyl. I'm sure there are other posts here covering it in detail.

68' Parisian Alfa GTV 1750
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 04:59 PM
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Topical for me too, at the moment - I too have a 1600 GTV with the pressed-fibre/cardboard 'chassis', faced with the stick-on wood grained vinyl. A clumsy, oversize radio cut-out , peeling glovebox lid, plus a few cracks and general faded appearance means I have to do something with it.

I have seen Franjo's spectacular results with recovering one of these with the original-style wood grain vinyl, so provided you are an artisan, it is possible to repair to original spec yourself.

I have also seen fibreglass and resin used to reinforce the back of the dash with success, it's just the front which requires skill and patience. I missed that class.

Others have reverted to a painted finish, mirroring the earlier GT speckled grey finish. Some look good, others less so, but it is a technique which requires skills most of us can muster.

Just this morning, I saw a1600 GTV with a dash which had been re-faced in black vinyl. It was an excellent job, and really looked quite good, with the chrome trim (unique to the 1600 GTV) really standing out, plus a lumpy, grained finish similar to the GT. Made me go 'Hmmm...'.

With the original, the expertise seems to lie in (very) carefully peeling off, then replacing the wood grain vinyl over the tortuous curves. I have not seen any mention of repairing the wood grain vinyl without total replacement, but will watch answers to your question with interest for anything which suggests success can be achieved here.

Hydrographic transfer surfacing looks interesting tho. With DIY packs available, I suspect prices will come down. Of course, that requires dipping the cardboard dash into water. What could possibly go wrong?
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 06:39 PM
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I am sourcing a laminate to get the original wood grain look back on the front. hoping a good adhesive and a heat gun will fill the bill. Should resin alone be sufficient to stiffen the pressed board or matting required as well?
My radio cutout is trashed and glove box are trashed as well, otherwise everything is there to be worked with.
Repair of Wood grain laminate seem hopeless and bound to further deterioration anyway
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 06:55 PM
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If you have cracking or other damage, some matting will of course assist.

Having tried this before, do (stick) the vinyl in stages. That is, let the larger front (flatter) sections cure before attempting the gauge areas. I tried it all at once, and as I applied heat to the gauge areas, the vinyl shrank away from the concave face.

Hopefully, others will have advice too.
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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-10-2018, 02:23 PM
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Beautiful job Boston, searching on how to repair a few cracks around my dash (top and gauges are near perfect)
Just had to post 2 thumbs way up!!
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-10-2018, 07:41 PM
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Ok guys, Here's the latest update on 66 GTV cardboard dashboard restoration.
Multiple coats of resin, sanding and shrink wrapping dinoc and here's the state of restoration attached. Glove box is also swiss cheese so lots of building up and sanding to be done there. Most complicated project I've done in 30 years!
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-10-2018, 08:15 PM
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You guys are killing me,can't tell if that's real wood or not, absolutely gorgeous!
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TFB3 View Post
Ok guys, Here's the latest update on 66 GTV cardboard dashboard restoration.
Multiple coats of resin, sanding and shrink wrapping dinoc and here's the state of restoration attached. Glove box is also swiss cheese so lots of building up and sanding to be done there. Most complicated project I've done in 30 years!
Wow!!! Fabulous work.

Can you share w/us how you removed the metal circling that surrounds the dashboard lower edge of the instruments locations/bulge? I.e. the metal cirgling on whih the external crown of the instument staks on and on which the backside retention stabs press/push?

Would really be helpfull as I want to do the same ... one day... but have no clue of how to remove these metalic rings/circlings.

KR

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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 01:24 PM
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Great result - nicely done.
I had some trouble with adhesion (see post 24, above), so I would also appreciate understanding how you achieved your great result, particularly heating/stretching into the gauge recesses without disturbing material on the face.
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 01:36 PM
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I will provide a new post detailing process into the next day or 2 (with photos ).
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