AFrench Blue '69 GTV Restoration - Page 99 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1471 of 1571 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Mac Mclaren, make sure you purchase a variable current power supply. That is the key.
Correct....initially I bought a 5 AMP variable current/voltage power supply and it worked nicely for the small hardware. But for larger bits like the brake calipers 10 AMPs is required so I purchased a second larger unit. These were purchased off flea BAY. The recommended current required to plate is min. 0.14 amps per sq.in of surface area....Caswell spells all this out in their manual.

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...BTW I found hydrochloric acid a really good and quick way to clean steel items for plating ... be careful though.
Indeed....hydrogen embrittlement is a possibility and for any critical component ....one has to bake the parts right after plating so as drive off the hydrogen gas produced during plating before it migrates into the metal itself.


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1971 1750 GTV 105.48 (sold), 1972 1300GTJunior (sold)
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post #1472 of 1571 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 05:51 AM
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Indeed....hydrogen embrittlement is a possibility and for any critical component ....one has to bake the parts right after plating so as drive off the hydrogen gas produced during plating before it migrates into the metal itself.
Is this only for those parts cleaned with acid?

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post #1473 of 1571 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Is this only for those parts cleaned with acid?
As far as I know. It's the chemical reaction between the acid (sulphuric seems more active than hydrochloric) that results in hydrogen as a by product. There are a few good metal finishing forums than provide more information and expertise. Check out this site ...

https://www.finishing.com/12/16.shtml


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post #1474 of 1571 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 08:19 AM
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As far as I know. It's the chemical reaction between the acid (sulphuric seems more active than hydrochloric) that results in hydrogen as a by product. There are a few good metal finishing forums than provide more information and expertise. Check out this site ...

https://www.finishing.com/12/16.shtml

Ok, got it. I've seen folks who make a DIY parts cleaner that uses kitty litter to remove the rust. It seems to do a good job without leaving marks. The parts come out fairly shiny and ready for plating.

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post #1475 of 1571 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossodiseppia View Post
Ok, got it. I've seen folks who make a DIY parts cleaner that uses kitty litter to remove the rust. It seems to do a good job without leaving marks. The parts come out fairly shiny and ready for plating.
I've seen that one, that was so funny

He has made much more of these type of video's
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post #1476 of 1571 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 11:13 AM
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thanks pete ...its information like that that saves a lot of heart ache and pain for us new bees ,,much appreciated
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post #1477 of 1571 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Been busy the past few weeks (or was that months?) with refurbishing the differential (will post progress on that later)....and finally completed the gas tank as well. The fuel level indicator for the fuel injected cars seems is different than the carburetted cars and is no available from the suppliers...so time was spent on restoring the original one. It's surprising how much fuel varnish was built up inside this tank....

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...also surprised that the top was so corroded...

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...so disassembly...bead cleaning and replating....went rather quickly...

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..reassembled with new gaskets....but used screws instead of rivets...didn't want to split the plastic pieces and the rubber o-rings that seal the penetrations for the electrical connectors......

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post #1478 of 1571 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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...to provide an additional sealing around the connectors....I sealed around the screws on the inside with fuel resistant sealant.

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..almost like new.....

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post #1479 of 1571 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Gas tank installed

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I may have mentioned in some earlier posts that I had the gas tank hot tank acid cleaned which was a waste of money in the end. Not only did all the solder joints disappear....but the brass plug was lost as well. This created a lot more work (and delays as well) in having to re-solder the joints ....and having to source that dang plug. I sealed the tank with the Por 15 sealing kit, painted the upper surface black and the lower silver.

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The fuel filler boot was another one of those "I hope I never have to do that again" jobs(very difficult).I think I battled with that for at least an hour ....my hands will probably be sore for days.

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But I'm thrilled it's finally back in it's right place!....

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I also shortened the neck by 3/4" which probably could have been cut down a tad more....to 1". Getting the tank in without scratching it here and there a little is almost impossible....I'll have to get the touch up paint out to tidy it up a bit.

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1971 1750 GTV 105.48 (sold), 1972 1300GTJunior (sold)
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Last edited by 1750GT; 01-13-2019 at 12:01 AM.
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post #1480 of 1571 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 05:21 AM
More spectacular work!

The Brad Davisson Memorial Scholarship Fund:

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post #1481 of 1571 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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More spectacular work!
Thanks Rich....question for you though.....what is the correct orientation for the fuel level gauge? Does it align longitudinally...or inb'd outb'd? I thought I took photos of this before tear down...but I just can't seems to find one photo showing this.


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1971 1750 GTV 105.48 (sold), 1972 1300GTJunior (sold)
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post #1482 of 1571 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 08:09 AM
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1750GT, thank you for the info on the fuel level indicator. I am about to start refurbing a fuel injected version myself and these pictures will undoubtedly come in handy.

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post #1483 of 1571 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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The past few winter months have been crawling along and I've kept busy with the mechanicals. Starting with the differential....

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I'm not going to describe all the steps in rebuilding the diff ...there are few threads on the topic already and you can't beat the Alfa Romeo Shop Manual - Propeller Shaft/Rear Axle/Suspension for detail and photgraphs. Suffice it to say that after complete teardown, throrough cleaning, bead blasting the case..

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and carefully inspecting the bearings and races....I determined that the overall condition did not warrant replacing the bearings. The only adjustment was to the pinion shim which after checking the pre-load with the weighted lever needed to be ground down only a few thou. So for now only the seals needed to be replaced.

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If after driving it becomes apparent that bearings do need to be replaced.....I'll go the full rebuild route as outlined in the Shop manual.
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post #1484 of 1571 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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With the diff ready to go....I was finally able to put all the rear axle parts together...

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1971 1750 GTV 105.48 (sold), 1972 1300GTJunior (sold)
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post #1485 of 1571 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 07:56 PM
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Once again, sweet work!!

[B][I][U]Current[/U][/I][/B]
1984 Spider Veloce Deluxe
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1969 1750 Spica Spider Veloce
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Others??!!!😃😃
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