How to change oil on Giulietta Spider? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by divotandtralee View Post
Ditto on the weather..I agree with your plan. All machines benefit from use.. but short trips like two blocks probably aren't enough to charge the battery and are harder on moving parts, i.e engines. Try to drive it about 10 miles once warmed up to maximize the benefit to the moving parts. You won't wear out this engine in your lifetime but longer trips will make it happier in the long run.
Short runs are bad, and you must change oil more often if you only drive short distances. Fuel washes into the oil, water vapor condenses, etc., more if the engine doesn't get good and hot, all of it bad of for oil and, thus, for your engine. Modern engine management systems make these problems much less acute. Old Solexes and Webers are relatively crude.

The perfect is the enemy of the good. Voltaire
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post #17 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 05:51 AM
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As I agreed with the plan, an annual change is good if you put a few hundred miles on the car... and I also said the filter can be left for a biannual change in that case. Filters were designed to pick up the crap in oil. A few hundred miles won't create crap.

Last edited by divotandtralee; 05-06-2014 at 05:53 AM.
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post #18 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Just found out an oil change was performed on the Alfa at around 200 miles. So, I think we're good for now. Pete wants to change the oil again once I pass 500 miles. C'mon weather, warm up! I have some driving to do!

Len Jacko (Cleveland, OH): '58 Spider Normale, Spider Veloce (Done!) and Sprint Veloce (In Progress), '60 Spider 2000 Touring (my favorite) and '61 Spider Normale.
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post #19 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 07:47 AM
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post #20 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 06:03 PM
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I'm visiting my parents and want to change the oil on my dad's Giulietta, have filter, gasket, o-ring, and oil in hand (thanks to this thread), but when I got up under the car today I got a surprise. I expected to see a plug that needs a 14 mm hex wrench, but this plug was there instead:

https://classicalfa.com/en059-oil-su...g-with-magnet/

It looks like I need to remove the crossmember to get at it with a box wrench, which is odd. Two questions: (1) advice on how to proceed (finagle the wrench around the member or remove crossmember), (2) where can I buy the (original?) 14 mm hex wrench plug? (I've tried Centerline, Classic Alfa, Mr. Fiat, eBay)

I should also note that it is a 1958 spider engine in a 1961 spider car, in case that is the origin of my access problem. Hopefully the filter holds no new surprises.

Also, the oil pan looks lower at the front but the drain is at the back. This makes me want to prop up the front a bit to get good drainage, but someone in this thread said horizontal is best. True?

Thanks in advance for your guidance.

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Last edited by TBigs; 07-12-2019 at 06:39 PM. Reason: more info
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post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 07:01 PM
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You do have a little mismatch there. DO prop it up in front, but try avoiding removal if the 6 nuts and bolts on the cross member as on this car the stamped frame rails move when you disconnect the linking member, making it a pain to re-install, lining up bolt holes and using the cross member to pull everything back in alignment.
Warm it up draining HOT oil. While oil is draining remove the filter canister. There were at least three usual variations of the canister with sub variations, Fram, Fispa and Comit. Inside the canister are a long bolt and a filter support mechanism, which differs with the different manufactures and sub variations. DO NOT lose or accidentally throw away internal canister parts! They are not easily replaced. When you think your on your way to success, there were different sizes and types of giant "O" rings in the upper assembly attached to the engine. Some were square cross section "O" rings, but round usually works. Reseat the can filter and bolt CAREFULLY. Owners of these cars will tell you horror stories of dumping 7-8 quarts of oil VERY quickly in the driveway if the canister was not correctly seated on the "O" ring.
Use the correct oil. Usually a 20-50 mineral base with plenty of ZDDP zinc for cam lubrication. If your oil is for an engine with catalytic converter, it might not contain adequate zinc. If in doubt, most oils for diesel engines still contain zinc, or you can buy it as an additive.
Some use Valvoline VR-1 race 20-50 mineral base as it has plenty of zinc.
If you are not sure what to do, ASK on the BB. Never take a chance that might damage a costly to repair Alfa engine.


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post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 07:29 PM
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Thank you for all of your advice, Gordon! I didn't like the idea of removing the member. Glad I asked.

I should have access to a pit in my grandfather's garage this weekend, so raising the nose should be easy and getting under enough to see everything will really help.

I have some Lucas 20-50 oil with zinc, so I think I'm good there. Just make sure to give it a good shake, I'm told.

Is it true that the original plug was a 14 mm hex, removed with an allen key? What I would do for such a plug right now. It sure is tight in there....

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post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 07:42 PM
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Different sump drain plugs were used with many of the different Alfa sumps. The pictured plug is common on many sumps, but I believe the one you are referencing is the 750 or 101 Veloce sump drain plug that looks like this, used with this tool kit wrench.
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post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 08:44 PM
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I see. My dad's car is not a veloce, nor is the engine, so maybe the drain plug he has in there is correct and the problem is the 750/101 mismatch. I finally managed to attach a picture....

BTW, the crossmember extends about 1/2" farther back than the drain plug. :/
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1961 Giulietta Spider
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Last edited by TBigs; 07-12-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 07:21 AM
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Someone DID try to make that impossible! The crossmember also appears whacked on the pavement with a nice bend! You have MORE clearance with the temperature sending unit. I would remove that and call it a "drain"! You could remove the cross member, but then I would straighten, it probably with a hydraulic press. That done, it appears it would shorten making re-install even more a pain. Not such a simple 1/2 hour project. Also not unusual with neat older cars!
Any other ideas readers??


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post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 07:55 AM
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Isn't the cross member radiused on one side? Maybe it is installed backwards and effectively making the drain plug hard to get to.
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post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 08:03 AM
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Yes it is, I have one around here somewhere. Cannot tell from the photo, as the photographer had limited access for the photo. That IS a good point. Very possibly flipping that cross member around would correct the whole problem!
Thanks!


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post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 08:58 AM
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I just checked the cross member and it is installed correctly, with the radius at the back for access. That was a good idea though.

I also like the idea of using the temperature sending unit as a drain. Does that have a reusable seal like a washer or o-ring or does it have something like a crush gasket that I will need to buy?

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post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 09:19 AM
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Some were a taper on the sump and sending unit, others use a copper washer seal.


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post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 09:26 AM
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Seems like a proper sized offset wrench would be the solution to get it off.
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