Well all, I have put it off long enough, the windshield replacement has started. My son and I had it off and stripped of it's trim and dry-rotted rubber in only one hour. I have decided to have the posts re-chromed and I am getting quotes now.
Are the four screw heads that hold the lower trim chrome plated? How 'bout the top and bottom trim pieces, polished or plated?
The bolts are brass and shrink tube the threads before plating. Also over tightening these can cause a severe case of heart burn that can shatter your view of the world. Use the load bearing slide on plinths that are cut ant an angle to evenly spread the load on the cowl underneath. A nut driver is the best tool for this and you only need to tighten them as you would a 5 mm fine threaded nut which are all over the car. Their primary purpose is to hold the assembly on the car, not to create the waterproof seal. The water proofing is done with windshield sealant that stays soft like 3m Strip Caulk Black 08578 and cleans up with mineral spirits which will not hurt your paint unless the paint is wet. If it leaks add more caulk but don't tighten it unless the rubber has bedded in and a half turn or so is needed.
I think some of the suppliers like Alfa Stop might have the bolts if your chrome shop gets pissy with you
The platers are asking what the parts are made of. It looks to me like the windshield posts are brass, the top trim is brass, the screws are brass, and the bottom trim is aluminum. Can someone confirm or correct?
I live in the middle-of-nowhere-virginia and there are no platers within driving distance, so shipping the parts will be required.
I am looking at Tri-city Plating in Elizabethton, TN and Royal Silver in Norfolk, VA. Anyone have experience with a quality plater at a good value that I should also consider?
If the top piece has one hole for one screw it is brass as is the post. The later one with two screws were steel ala Giulia. I expect your lower and upper pieces were brass also. I don't think I have ever seen one aluminum. Scratch the back if in doubt and test with a magnet. FWIW, platers love brass over steel by a factor of ten because of the rust and copper filling required with steel..
Fill the tiny screw holes on top and side with putty or caulk so the tiny threads don't get plating. Keep the screws in your jewelry cabinet. I think the side ones are sheet metal threads but can't remember.
Take pictures of everything you send out and give them a copy and keep a copy. It helps them keep track of the small stuff and not lose it. ALso helps to show them a picture of the installation to give them some appreciatio for the assembly. It should cost about $300-350 max and they should quote you from photos you send them with at least a range. Tell them you want show chrome not street chrome.
Geo, as you know, he might live on Rodeo Drive in VA, but the road to expected restoration results is filled with pot holes. On the other end of the spectrum, some shops working for a Ralph Lauren restoration, that we know, would charge $500/post with the same rsults. It is almost a bragging rights thing to be wearing Givichy rather than Burrberry. Claus and I were discussing this the other day. He is doing his Sprint and when we started comparing what it costs from one of his sources to mine it was pretty hair raising. He is going to use my guy in Olathe Kansas. Ma and Pa and son three generations, salt of the earth . Never lose anything, always right, and never returnt for redo. Their name is Kaufman. Performance Plating, Inc... and guess what? they answer the phone. Unlike most shops, they own their own tanks so there is never anything lost. This is typically where most shops drop the ball or your part is lost forever at the bottom of a tank. They have done me well as all of my cars have taken home some hardware when shown. Yes, including my "trailer queen".
Here's a photo of the swanky Virginia streets. This is all you need in an Alfa.
I have contacted Performance Platers and sent photos. I'll let the board know what current prices are for a windshield rechrome job is. Thanks to all that have helped me along the way.
excuse me.. that's not Virginia... that's a tree. I slept with Virginia in 1982 at an contractors convention. The price was right and she doesn't have a website. But if you insist and that is where you live, then Spring has come early. Good luck with the chrome stuff.
HUD,
Brian at Performance Plating estimated the price based on photos at $75 each for the posts, $30 for the four screws, and $75-$100 each for the top and bottom trim pieces. That's at least $100 less than my two estimates on the east coast.
Are you asking for show chrome quality from each vender? There's a big difference in price between driver quality and show chrome. Also. do you have referrals from these plater's? Some plater's don't know crap about quality work. A poor job can ruin sharp details.
FWIW, just received a thank you from Brian Kauffman, number one son who does a lot of work, for the lead .
It is interesting to note the following caveat on all of their e-mails.......
ALL PRICES GIVEN VIA E-MAIL OR TELEPHONE ARE ESTIMATES. THERE IS NO WAY WE CAN GIVE YOU AN EXACT QUOTE OVER THE TELEPHONE OR VIA E-MAIL. FINAL PRICES MAY VARY WHEN THE ACTUAL PARTS ARE SEEN IN PERSON.
Updating the board. Parts were sent to Performance Plating, replating complete, and parts returned. Excellent work by Brian and his team, quick turn around, and excellent packing. I spent yesterday fitting, cutting, refitting, trimming, refitting, thinking, trimming, and finally refitting the rubber. I think I got it right, but unfortunately, I will be traveling this week and cannot do any more work until next weekend. I'll post some progress photos, final photos, and commentary on the final install.
Thanks to the board members for sharing their experiences. I could not have made it this far without it.
I'm pleased you are pleased. That was a nice turnaround. They are first class in my book. So how did the privce compare to the other "high end" shops for the same work? Half?
Price was about $150 less than the two east coast estimates. This week I am traveling so i'm not making any progress. I also bought a 69 1750 spider this week (what was I thinking), more distractions. I hope to finish up the install this weekend.
Finally got around to finishing the windshield installation. I've been distracted by my wife's research projects, traveling to New England with my son to visit colleges, and purchasing a 69 Alfa 1750 Spider. These photos show the final assembly of the windshield. First the bottom rubber and chrome trim, then the top rubber and trim, then the sides. What is not shown are the hours of patiently fitting and cutting the rubber pieces to fit.
Installation and the final result. Not too bad actually. As everyone else has recommended, be patient, take breaks when you get frustrated (you will get frustrated), read the boards and study the project carefully, then just do it.
Thanks for all the help. I could not have done it without help from the BB.
Very nice. I broke the windshield on my Giulietta again this summer and am in the process of replacing it again -- this is my third, don't ask!
So, do you have any close-up photos of the corners where the post and bottom rubbers mate. Did you actually install the whole assembly to the car as one piece (including the bottom rubber)?
The problem I am now having, a first, is the clearance between the bottom of the glass and the cowl is almost touching.
Outstanding.. remember not to tighten the bolts tighter if you have some leaks. add more goo instead. You don't want to stress the glass. Congratulations
My wiper blades are shorter than yours and the passengers side sits level with the lower windscreen frame. Now I'm wondering if I have the correct blades.
Should the arms sit as you have yours? My old (and much missed) Giulia SS wipers sat like your spider.
Hello John, I have seen photos of Giulietta spider wiper arms that sit low on the passenger side, and some that sit high like these do. My original arms sat like these do, but not at such a high angle. Rather than spending over $300 for correct replacements, I bought these very nice wiper arms and blades (fits a late 1950s ford truck) for $40. I like the look personally.
Thanks Fish, That is what my wiper arrangement looked like before the replacement. My new blades are about 1 inch longer than original and the angle bent on the arm tip is slightly more than original, thus the result I have.
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