Differential front seal - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 01:09 PM
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Differential Pinion Seal

I might be wrong, but I think RJ suggested somewhere to double up on a leaky pinion seal by adding new one on top of the old and drive both in together. Is there a space for another seal in there? And in case I remember it correctly, will two new seals last longer and perform better? I think RJ suggested this as a quick fix.

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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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New seal is in, new pinion nut is here but strangely Ed's tool fits the old pinion but not the new one.

I filed the edges some but still no joy. Don't worry Ed I'm not gonna harm your tool, just debating my next step - file the nut more or make a tool like you did, from a 30mm socket.

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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 11:34 AM
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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Pinion nut adjusted to fit. Ill be Ready to torque after making a flange lock tool or setting the car down on wheels. The factory materials I got from Papajam are strangely silent on this part of the diff and from reading other threads I sense Im missing some literature. Saw references to the inch/lbs with which a correctly torqued pinion should rotate. Does anyone have this material ?


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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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All done. Here's my brilliant pinion locking tool (oops upside down). Thanks Ed, socket on its way back to SC.
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 06:13 AM
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Seals

Quote:
I might be wrong, but I think RJ suggested somewhere to double up on a leaky pinion seal by adding new one on top of the old and drive both in together. Is there a space for another seal in there? And in case I remember it correctly, will two new seals last longer and perform better? I think RJ suggested this as a quick fix.
There is plenty of room for two seals.

However If you have a leaking seal it`s best to replace it to insure the leak is contained. As well you should pack the inside of the 2nd (outer seal with axle grease to insure it`s lubrication.

Proves a good insurance against leaks on hard driven applications, as the ring gear is forcing lube into the pinion snout & bearing area as it spins.

You really don`t need such levers to hold the pinion from turning as the nut only has to be tight. Lubing the nut with red Locktight and a short snug with an air impact will do the deed .

Richard Jemison
RJR Racing

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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Richard.

I torqued to ~65 ft-lbs and made sure the pinion wasn't binding, it turns with a twist of the hand. Good to know for the future that a quick brap with the impact will do the trick.

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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 05:00 PM
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Thanks RJ for the detailed explanation. And good to know I'm not imagining Alfa related solutions...yet
Great thread R-MM

Zaza

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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 11:00 AM
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The socket arrived today. Thanks for the gratuity!

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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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More like reimbursement =)

BTW post office man was quite curious to know what in the hell type of socket I was mailing.

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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
I have the pinion nut and flange off and strangely the seal looks dry. Can these weep fluid from the splines?
I believe that the pinion splines can indeed leak. I had a leak coming from somewhere in the pinion/flange area, but I wasn't sure exactly where. All I know is that when I pulled the pinion flange, the splines on both the flange and the pinion were coated with oil, and there was oil all over the face of the old seal, indicating the leak was coming from the somewhere inside the seal I.D. So when I replaced my pinion seal, I also coated the flange splines with some Permatex High Temp Thread sealant, just to be safe. So far so good.
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Any tricks on torquing the 6 guibo bolts with the trans installed? Does it help to put a jack under the trans and drop the trans mount / carrier? I did not install the motor with the front section of the prop shaft bolted to the guibo, and I just bought new locknuts so I need to torque all 6. Tried a normal 19mm box wrench, flare nut wrench and can't really get purchase with the mount in place.

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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 06:09 AM
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The only way I have had success, is by dropping/extending the end of the box wrench down from the passenger compartment above (through the shift tower opening in the drive line tunnel) and then using that to secure the forward bolt head or nut whilst I tightened the other end of the fastener from below the car.
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Last edited by Norseman50; 09-29-2016 at 08:20 AM. Reason: add photo
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 06:54 AM
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I was told to mark the position of the nut on the pinion shaft in order to maintain the pinion preload. I removed the nut and replaced the seal after marking the nut and pinion shaft.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks - i'll give that a try tonight.

Any tips on getting the forward section of the prop shaft bolted to the guibo? I'm having a hard time convincing the bolts to slip thru the yoke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman50 View Post
The only way I have had success, is by dropping/extending the end of the box wrench down from the passenger compartment above (through the shift tower opening in the drive line tunnel) and then using that to secure the forward bolt head or nut whilst I tightened the other end of the fastener from below the car.

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