Detailed Step by Step Rebuild of 1972 5 Speed - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Scott,

Is it safe to assume your adopted 72 Alfa will be "coming to America"? I can hear Neil Diamond singing it now!

Ray
Ray -

Yep! BTW, thanks for mentioning the song. I will have it running through my head for the next day or two!

Scott

72 GTV; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10
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post #32 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 10:45 AM
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If memory serves me, didn't the Spitfire "evolve" from the Trophy seaplanes and weren't they racers?

I believe that is correct but I am no expert.

Ed Prytherch
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post #33 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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INSERT PICTURE OF MAIN SHAFT SEPARATED FROM DIRECT DRIVESHAFT

Once the main shaft is separated from the direct driveshaft, start working on the direct driveshaft. First, you need to remove the snap ring holding the bearing on, along with the washer under it. Once that's done, you need to remove the bearing itself. Place the bearing splitter under the bearing itself (between the bearing and 4th gear) and press the bearing off the main shaft. I use a bit of Kroil before I press anything off; most things came off without a protest. Also recommend you put something under the press (I use an old blanket) to cushion the blow if the main shaft or whatever you're pressing releases suddenly.



And the scene of the crime -- here it is in my 20 ton Harbor Freight press. The press is money well spent; if you press off a few bearings instead of taking them to the machine shop, it pays for itself. They're $199 on the website and you can usually find discount coupons/codes, too. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-...ess-60603.html



And here is the bearing. I secured the snap ring (AR part number 2200.24820) and washer to it so they would stay together. So far, all my bearings appear to be in good shape, but I'd like to replace them all anyway. Bearing is AR part number 101.00.13.223.00. Looks like these are made by FAG; FAG part number is 506575. Looks like SKF 611500 would work, too. Centerline sells them, but at $200, I'm hoping to find some elsewhere. https://www.centerlinealfa.com/store/1981 Also, Centerline lists a different bearing for the 2000 gearbox (I'm working on a gearbox from a 1972 GT Junior, but I have a 2L box to rebuild, too) that's $125.



More disassembly of the direct driveshaft. I removed the dogtooth gear snap ring and pulled out the dogtooth gear guts. That's 4th gear and the dogtooth gear for 4th that are still on the direct driveshaft.


72 GTV; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10

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post #34 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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72 GTV; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10
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post #35 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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72 GTV; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10
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post #36 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 12:02 PM
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Scott,

PM sent.

Ray

Oklahoma SNO Alfa Chapter Director
'64/66 Giulia Spider finally back in the garage and painted
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post #37 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-02-2016, 09:23 PM
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Red face

Scott,

Thanks for posting this rebuild. It will be very useful.
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Gary
74 Spider - Completed; Tuning Weber's
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post #38 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 08:45 AM
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Suggest you mark the tripods (which gear) and orientation (which side faces inboard/outboard). Also, keep the shims between center mainshaft bearing and first gear together, and I wish I would have (but I didn't) check shim dimension BEFORE I took the mainshaft apart! I'm about a week ahead of you (I think!)

74 GTV with 10548's and Ingram pump
71 Spider 1750 BOMBER ; 1995 LS 78K tight fast car
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post #39 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Suggest you mark the tripods (which gear) and orientation (which side faces inboard/outboard). Also, keep the shims between center mainshaft bearing and first gear together, and I wish I would have (but I didn't) check shim dimension BEFORE I took the mainshaft apart! I'm about a week ahead of you (I think!)
Thanks for the tips, Goats.

Need to get back on it, but life has been crazy. I spent almost all of April on the road for work (Serbia, Norway, Germany) and now I'm in the states for 2 weeks of leave.

Scott

72 GTV; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10
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post #40 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goats View Post
Suggest you mark the tripods (which gear) and orientation (which side faces inboard/outboard). Also, keep the shims between center mainshaft bearing and first gear together, and I wish I would have (but I didn't) check shim dimension BEFORE I took the mainshaft apart! I'm about a week ahead of you (I think!)
If by tripod you mean the syncro hub. What the syncro collar or sleeve slides on. It doesn't matter there all the same.

As for the shims. what Goats said do not loose them and count them when you take them off. You will have anywhere from one to three from the factory.

1969 1750 Spider Veloce w/dual webers, 1969 1750 Berlina, 1971 1750 Spider Veloce w/ dual webers, 1985 Spider Veloce 23,000 orig. miles, {Two} 1986 Spider Veloces, 1987 Spider Veloce bought new, 1988 Quadrifoglio, 1991 164S, Plus several more. I think they are breeding.
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I just got 2 more. Now I have a Matta. I must be crazy.
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post #41 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 01:35 PM
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Jim, two of the three tripods are the same, the third is not. The difference is subtle but there is a difference on one side (dimensions are different)

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71 Spider 1750 BOMBER ; 1995 LS 78K tight fast car
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post #42 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 02:07 PM
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Jim, two of the three tripods are the same, the third is not. The difference is subtle but there is a difference on one side (dimensions are different)
Sorry Bob, but I have to agree with Jim on this one. The parts book lists all three hubs as the same part number, and as far as I can tell they are symmetrical. Hence there is no positional or directional placement criteria, so any hub can go in any position on the shaft, and in any direction.

And as far as the shims (that go between the 1st gear sleeve and the rear bearing), the parts book indicates that the factory could choose from five different thicknesses to achieve the necessary spacing: 0.2mm, 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.1mm or 1.2mm, but all I have ever come across are the 0.2mm ones.

Edward
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post #43 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 02:15 PM
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No reason to be sorry!! I've looked high and low for confirmation of either all three the same, or two the same and 1 different. On my last rebuild I am confident that the 5th gear tripod legs on one side were longer than the other two, even though my metrology setup is primitive at best. If you have a part manual from Alfa that says they are all the same part number I think that trumps my metrology empirical data (with the attendant noise !).

Ill take a look at a few shims I have and see what thickness they are.....
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74 GTV with 10548's and Ingram pump
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post #44 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 02:28 PM
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I'll have to find it. But in one of the service books. Might be the late 80's spider shop manual it basically says there the same and not to worry about which ones go where.
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1969 1750 Spider Veloce w/dual webers, 1969 1750 Berlina, 1971 1750 Spider Veloce w/ dual webers, 1985 Spider Veloce 23,000 orig. miles, {Two} 1986 Spider Veloces, 1987 Spider Veloce bought new, 1988 Quadrifoglio, 1991 164S, Plus several more. I think they are breeding.
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I just got 2 more. Now I have a Matta. I must be crazy.
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post #45 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 09:31 PM
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Guys, far be it from me to be an expert here, - but - I took my '71 trans apart last fall, and the subject of those "O" rings in post #35 came up. What size should the replacements be? Well, the internal diameter of the groove in my housing was 19mm, as shown. However, my shift rods, which these O-rings must seal, measure 14mm OD. Therefore the 14.5mm ID measurement shown in the pic will not seal the rod, as there must be some o-ring compression for the seal to work. We found (at the local Ace Hdw!) some 19 x 13 x 3 mm O-rings that we used. These back into the housing groove fully, provide some compression on the sliding shaft, and haven't leaked (yet).

Just our findings.

Gene
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