I guess my first question would be, why are you bleeding the clutch hydraulic system?
Did you replace the slave or master cylinder?
If you replaced the master, did you bench bleed it first? Bench bleeding a new master is pretty much a "must do".
I second the comment by GV27 (make sure the bleed nipple on the slave is at 12:00) since air rises.
When bleeding, I open the bleed screw, have wife (or friend) push clutch pedal to floor and hold it there, then I tighten the bleed screw before allowing helper to release clutch pedal. Repeat this step several times.
It sometimes helps to depress the slave piston pin all the way into the slave body while the bleed screw is open, because air can get trapped at the far (cylinder) end of the slave, and since the feed and bleed are both at the opposite end, cycling fluid with only the clutch pedal doesn't always clear the air out of the entire slave chamber.
Another tip: if you loosen the bleed screw too far, air can get sucked in from around the bleed screw threads, so try to only open it 1/4 to 1/2 turn when bleeding. Maybe even put some teflon tape or putty type sealant on the bleed screw threads.
Finally, one last possibility: If, during your clutch work, you had to release or separate the connection between the hard line and the rubber hose, make sure that connection is real tight again. One way to check it is to leave the bleed screw closed, and have your helper push hard on the clutch pedal while you watch that threaded connection. If you see the slightest drop of fluid sneaking out of that joint while the line is pressurized, air will continue to sneak in there while you are bleeding (ask me how I discovered this).
'88 Quad - "Claudia"
Last edited by Norseman50; 02-22-2016 at 12:41 PM.