Another T5 Conversion Thread - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #61 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bianchi1 View Post
why do you even need to remove the diff? I stuffed mine in with the diff in..
The diff and the area above the diff were the only places I haven't restored. It was part of this winter's project. No need to pull the diff to change/pull the trans.
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post #62 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bianchi1 View Post
yup, plug

The first pic is Ron Francis Wiring P/N PG-055
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post #63 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:57 PM
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plug, and mustang, t brid, even the automatics have it, wrecker, just cut it off the car cost.. free

anyone can buy a Porsche, only Drivers drive a Alfa Romeo

Last edited by bianchi1; 02-04-2015 at 06:59 PM. Reason: saving you time and money , again
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post #64 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bianchi1 View Post
nealric, the W/C T5 is more than capable of handling any power the alfa 2.0 can put out.. stop worring
Not really worried. I just thought it was pretty cool you could get a reasonably priced dogbox in an Alfa.
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post #65 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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I got the diff in tonight and got the jack stands under it. The pinion flange is sitting at 4 degrees...pointing up towards the firewall. This is good news for the trans as it will be point down 4 degrees which gives me about 10mm of clearance to the tunnel. There was much rejoicing in the garage tonight!!
I didn't get the two trans mounts rate checked today due to sudden work related emergencies displacing government jobs.
So I bolted the GM FS truck mount in and took a base measurement of the free height of the mount then jacked up the trans by the mount. I measured again and recorded zero deflection. Since the engine is front heavy there isn't much preload on the mount. I can easily lift the tailstock with one hand so the lack of mount deflection isn't shocking. Looking at the design I think I'm going to go with the GM mount over the S10 one from Rockauto.
The GM P/N is 22865396. I will try to get a vehicle line-up. Alternately you could use the mounts that Bianchi suggested. They are restrained which is definitely a bonus but I don't think it's really required considering the massive torque that the 2litre puts out.
Here's a comparison of the two mounts. The S10 mount is on the left; (see pic at the bottom of the post...not sure how to move pics in the new forum format)
You can see the rubber legs of the S10 mount are nearly horizontal which makes for a softer mount and more susceptible to deflection and sag under heat and load. The FS GM mount is on the right and the legs are closer to 45deg. This will make the mount considerably stiffer. I can also deflect the S10 mount by hand. Not the case with the GM mount.
Once I find my tape measure I'll get the driveshaft ordered and start on the cross member. I think the cross member will be pretty straight forward but will require a little bit of creativity. I'll get some pics of where the cross member will eventually sit and post them.
Bianchi...I seem to remember you saying you could use the original cross member. I'm assuming you need to cut the clevis off. Any pics of what you ended up with?
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post #66 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a brief update on the reverse switch. The 89 Mustang 5.0l 5spd reverse switch (Standard Products number LS230) will work with the connector that Bianchi posted.

The problem I ran into was a lack of readily available connector. Unlike sunny Cali we have a couple feet of snow on the ground so wandering out to a u-pull and cutting one off isn't really an option that I'm willing to entertain (I hate winter). There are a handful of companies online selling them but since I'm not keen on paying +$20 plus shipping for a plug I'm just going to use the S10 switch with a couple leads soldered to it pig tailed to a connector. Not elegant but it'll be functional. One of the benefits of redoing the fuel injection was that I updated the stock connectors with Weatherpack connectors so I have a few of them left over just looking for a reverse switch to hook up.
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post #67 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 04:56 PM
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how did you get the end of the trans pointed ' up '? are you using the stock crossmember, with the ' 2 ears cut off '?

anyone can buy a Porsche, only Drivers drive a Alfa Romeo
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post #68 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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If by end of the trans you mean the tailstock, no it's pointing down.
As far as the cross member goes...haven't got there yet. I did ask you what you did though.
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post #69 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 05:36 PM
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cut the 2 ' ears ' off, then put the tranny mount on the tranny lower it onto the oem crossmember, mark with sharpy, take c/m off car. take the tranny mount of tranny, measure the mount side to mounting holes. drill and slot them for adjustment. fore aft
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post #70 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 10:24 PM
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For those thinking of making an adapter to connect a driveshaft from a t5 to the stock companion flange on the nose of the pinion on the (stock) Alfa rear end--you do NOT need to bother !!!!

What you need is Neapco's Part # N2-2-899-1 !!! This part is a 'companion yoke' which accepts a (Spicer) 1310 series U-joint cross (with outside circlips), and which fits up perfectly to the stock Alfa companion flange on the Alfa rear end's input.
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post #71 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 10:31 PM
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And, by the way--Neapco and Sonnex both make Aluminium 'weld yokes' which fit up with 1310 series U-joint crosses (again with outside circlips and machined from 6061 T-6 alloy) and which are sized to fit up properly with 3 inch diameter, .125 inch wall Aluminium propeller shaft tubing. If going this route for a new drive shaft, don't forget to use U-joint crosses whose bearing caps have been given the appropriate coating for use with aluminium yokes !!!
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post #72 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Hello Bearbvd,
I just looked up the NEA-N2-2-899-1 on Norther Drivetrain's website and it looks like the bolt pattern is off. The bolt circle and pilot diameter is good but it shows the bolt pattern to be 1.768" in the Horizontal or 'X' direction and 2.107" in the vertical or 'Y' direction. The Alfa dif flange bolt pattern is equally spaced on the 2.75 diameter.
Let me know if I'm missing something. I hope I am because this would be a sweet solution.
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post #73 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 06:38 AM
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If you double check, I suspect you will find that the holes in the stock Alfa companion flange are NOT evenly spaced on the bolt circle !! Even if they don't match up with the Neapco part, it's a pretty simple procedure to clamp the two parts together so that NONE of the holes line up and transfer punch the holes from the Neapco part onto the Alfa part, and then drill new holes in the Alfa part. MUCH simpler, stronger, and more reliable than building and using an adapter !!
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post #74 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 06:46 AM
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Another approach: Spicer makes a companion yoke which mates up with the Alfa companion flange and which accepts a 1210 series U-joint cross (still with outside snap rings).
They also make weld yokes which fit up with 2" diameter .083" wall (steel) driveshaft tubing--for both 1210 AND 1310 crosses. So--you could, in the alternative, make up a hermaphrodite drive shaft--with a 1310 joint at the front and a 1210 at the rear.
This approach is NOT an option if you want to take the aluminium shaft route, though. 3" diameter .125" wall tube is the smallest option in aluminium.
By the way--the 3 inch .125" wall aluminium is lighter than 2" .083" wall steel, has slightly higher rotating inertia, and has MUCH greater torque capacity and stiffness.
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post #75 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Bearbvd,
Good catch. I took a moment to re-measure the flange and as you said, they aren't evenly spaced. Upon closer look I am measuring 1.75" X 2.1" which lines up quite nicely with the Neapco number. Again...good catch.
I will update my previous posts with the adapter to reflect this solution. Locally this P/N is showing to be somewhat difficult to find.
As far as driveshaft material goes and inertial mass, torque etc goes. I'll let everyone make up their own mind but in my OPINION the advantage of mass savings on a driveshaft is minimal on a good day. I won't dispute that there is savings but unless you've optimized the flywheel, crank and rotating mass assembly, pulleys, removed the fan from the engine that is spinning 7000RPM, then looked at tires and rims, the driveshaft will equate to a very minimal improvement. As far as torque capacity goes...the torque coming out of the Nord isn't really much of a concern especially if you add into the equation the weight of the car and the relatively thin tire patch that is readily available to fit under the car. Bianchi can correct me but I also remember him saying that the aluminum driveshaft he put on required the relocation of the e-brake linkage. The performance improvement doesn't, in my opinion, justify taking out a tape measure to verify if that's the case or not. I think I'd be better off going on a diet and trimming my 220lb frame down to 190lbs!!
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