Another T5 Conversion Thread - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #46 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 86AlfaRossa View Post
Thanks for the motivation Chill!!
I had two weeks off over the holidays and didn't accomplish a whole lot while I was off. I did manage to get a bunch of work done on the diff and got the area above the diff cleaned up and painted.
Yesterday however, I managed to tune in the tunnel to clear the trans. I'll have some pics in the next few days. I still need to do a final trial fit to make sure that everything is good. In retrospect it would be infinitely easier to do this with just the trans housing and bell housing without all the mass of the gears. There is no flat bottom on the trans so trying to man handle it in place on a floor jack tends to be...entertaining...as it keeps wanting to roll from side to side.
Fantastic news. Cutting the tunnel was one of my biggest hesitations with this project.
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post #47 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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I won't say it's not the right thing to do. The clearance will be minimal. The closest area is the upper right hand corner of the adapter plate. I expect I'll have approximately 3/8" of clearance. I think this should be fine. If I hit a bump hard enough to launch the trans up to hit I'll probably have other concerns. Likewise WOT events shouldn't be much of a concern unless there's tire hop and the trans starts bouncing. The odd thud doesn't cause me any heart burn. The reverse switch is going to be tight. I may have to do some modifications to the connector so it'll clear.

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post #48 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Motivation = 0
So...a little massaging on the tunnel and I think I have a winner. I'm positive enough that I painted up the "bruises" left from the massaging. I have enough clearance that I was able to get the tail stock to point up before I hit the tunnel. The upper right corner of the adapter plate is the tight area. I did a lot of weight reduction on the trans as well. there were a number of small tabs that can off the top cover and the side of the trans. Without removing them you will need to cut the tunnel. I also trimmed two bolt bosses that were at the end of the tail stock. they serve no useful purpose for this installation and as Murphy would dictate, managed to line up perfectly with a rib in the tunnel. When I was modifying/massaging the tunnel I found that once I had flattened the offending rib everything started move pretty well. The tunnel actually moved from round and started to square up nicely.
I made a really slick ball peen attachment for my air hammer that sadly was an epic fail. The floor vibrated enough to absorb the impacts from the air hammer. Plan B was the BFH...before anyone asks it means big fuzzy hammer. It worked well but was a serious work out on the forearms.
Here are some pics;
Plan A;
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Plan B;
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Tunnel mods;
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post #49 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of the trimming on the trans.
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post #50 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-13-2015, 05:44 AM
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Nice. BFH is always the answer
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post #51 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-02-2015, 06:45 AM
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Checking in for any updates or unexpected setbacks...

1986 Spider Veloce Turbo
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post #52 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-02-2015, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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There's been a few set backs although none that are involving the car. I have the trans currently installed with the tailstock sitting on a floor jack while I finished up the differential. I want to get the diff installed so I can ensure the tailstock angle is correct before I can declare that the I have enough room in the tunnel. If I jack the tailstock up to about 1° above horizontal I just make contact in the upper right corner of the adapter bracket. It's still modifiable but I'm getting really tired of wrestling that thing in and out of the car by myself. At horizontal there is about 6mm of clearance.
A word of advice here for those wanting to go down this path. Either leave your diff in place while you do this or get an angle off the yoke before you take it out. Then, if you have the opportunity, get an empty case to use for clearancing the tunnel so you can avoid the heavy in-out of the full assembly.
As far as set backs go...I've been down the last few days with a flu that knocked the doors off me, my dog blew his left hind knee out, I've got a house full of contractors doing a basement reno and I've been dreading wrestling the diff back under the car and have generally been procrastinating because of it. I expect in a few days I'll be back up and running and will put my head down and get that diff in. Then I'll be ready to start figuring out the cross member which I already have some ideas for.
I also managed to find another trans mount that will work. It's for a full sized chev truck 2 wheel drive. I'll get P/N's here shortly. I want to get my Rockauto S10 one and the full sized rate checked to see if there is any difference. The Rockauto one has flatter legs which will make it softer vertically but has a stiffer compound, while the FS one has more vertical legs but a softer compound. Neither has travel restriction in the vertical direction.
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post #53 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-02-2015, 08:50 AM
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Thanks for the update and hope you feel better. Really fantastic to get the level of detail you are providing about this conversion.

On a side note, I recently found out they make dogring gearsets for the T5 that are good for 500+hp. I probably won't go that route initially, but the idea of a dogbox in the spider is certainly intriguing.

1986 Spider Veloce Turbo

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post #54 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 03:03 PM
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been watching.. you folks are overthinking this.. t6 alumiumn , if you thread it will work just fine.. remember alfa threads the cast aluiumn,, no problems there... and as for the adapter from the d/shaft to the axle.. again over thinking it.. alumiumn will work just fine.. been on my car for 3 years now, no problem, and drill the alfa flange to work with a 3/8 bolt.. grade 8 will work just fine, just use a nylock on the bolt.. you just have to get a bolt long enough so that the shoulder will 'just be long enough to support the adapter, and cut the threads to length, and the alfa flange.

anyone can buy a Porsche, only Drivers drive a Alfa Romeo

Last edited by bianchi1; 02-04-2015 at 05:54 PM. Reason: saving you folks time, and money
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post #55 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 05:48 PM
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Talking

never mind

anyone can buy a Porsche, only Drivers drive a Alfa Romeo

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post #56 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:00 PM
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also, you will be able to drain the 'ATF' from the drain hole, but you will have to fill it thru the shift tower, yes it works fine that way,( you can fill the t5 in the fill hole, buts it's really hard to do. lowering the tranny, and removing the d/shaft to fill it that way.. easyer to do it thru the shift tower,, I replace my atf every 2 years.

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post #57 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:01 PM
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why do you even need to remove the diff? I stuffed mine in with the diff in..

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post #58 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:03 PM
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nealric, the W/C T5 is more than capable of handling any power the alfa 2.0 can put out.. stop worring

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post #59 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:19 PM
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yup, plug
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post #60 of 96 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I don't suppose you have a P/N and supplier for that do you? Maybe the make, model or year that it's for?
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