Another T5 Conversion Thread - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 6Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #31 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 08:08 AM
Registered User
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 57
Speedhut

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86AlfaRossa View Post
Do a search for Speedhut on here. The make some really nice gauges and they fit nicely in the alfa bezel. The GPS speedo eliminates the need for a cable or counter. I wired their tach directly to my MS box and it works great.
Found their website, are those ever nice gauges. Those will look great in the S2 pods.

Thanks for the heads up on those.

Paul alfanoob
Chill is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
86AlfaRossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 115
Garage
This doesn't belong in this forum but since we were on the subject...and it DOES have to do with the speedo and a swap...lol
Here's some pics of my gauges and the proofs from Speedhut.
I used the same logo and graphics that "oneillchris" had made a while back. I continued the look over to the tach. I carved out the back of the OE gauge to clear the wires and leave room to spin in the antennae for the GPS. I ended up using a high strength hot melt as oppose to silicone as some had suggested.
No one has picked out that they aren't original. They ended up looking really clean. The only thing I would have done different is sprayed the bezels to match the matte finish of the gauge pod.
Here are the Tach specs. The one thing that isn't shown is the addition of a remote switch for both the tach and the speedo. this allows me to run through the speedo options and set-up the tach with the gauges covered by the plastic cover. I put the speedo button in the factory location and painted the nuts and washers black. Worked out good and hid the hole left over from the OE push button.
GL338-TACH-02:
3-3/8" Tachometer Gauge 8K RPM

Colors: Day - Black dial // White font
Night - Numbers White Glow
Font Style: Century
Tick Style: standard
Graphic: -
Logo: Silver Alfa
Custom Text: -
Pointer: Black Blade White (Glows White)
Bezel: Stealth Black
Disc:
Notes: Tach graphic/logo should match the speedo in size.
Production Notes:
Price: $139.95

GRM338-GPS-01:
3-3/8" GPS Speedometer Gauge 200km/h Metric

Colors: Day - Black dial // White font
Night - Numbers White Glow
Font Style: Century
Tick Style: standard
Graphic: -
Logo: -
Custom Text: -
Pointer: Black Blade White (Glows White)
Bezel: Stealth Black
Disc:
Notes: Please apply MPH as well in yellow. I have sent the custom artwork to Rachel in an email. I will need a remote button feature added. Please contact me with any questions regarding the details on this gauge. thanks, Don
Production Notes:
Price: $259.95
Attached Images
     
86AlfaRossa is offline  
post #33 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 09:58 AM
Registered User
 
iachella's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 2,099
Great transmission post. Thought about this several times. My clutch and trans doing fine for now, but by next clutch change, my syncros will need attention. Might do this at that time. Subscribe.

Wish someone did a rear tranaxle version too. I have both type of cars.

Stefano
Concord, CA
iachella [at] gmail [dot] com
iachella is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #34 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 10:20 AM
Registered User
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 57
When gently reshaping the tunnel with a hammer, how much gap is enough? With motor mount and trans mount flexion you don't want then case hitting the tunnel under accel/decel. I guess I could go look and see how much room there is around the stock gearbox.

When doing this conversion I would be tempted to just plasma cut the top half of the tunnel off and replace it with a square cap of thicker material. The tunnel is a critical part of the unobody! I know you must mind the space for the heater and fan of course so you can't make it too tall. This is a little less "bolt on" approach however.

Paul alfanoob
Chill is offline  
post #35 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 11:51 AM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
horsewidower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wilton Ca
Posts: 2,291
Does one ever "gently" reshape a tunnel?

Usually it takes the BFH and a bit of wailing away.

Everyday is a school day. Learning something new all the time

View my '74 GTV restoration at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


View my '91 164s adventure at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


But wait there's more: View my 164LS thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. 1995 164LS 5 speed, awesome when it runs!!!

Musings on shop related items:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
horsewidower is online now  
post #36 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 01:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,982
just a hint, if you use t6 alum. threading the plate will just fine.. did that way on my car.. after 3 years works just fine I think mine are threaded 12 mm.
bianchi1 is offline  
post #37 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 01:13 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,982
also , hammering the tunnel will not work, must cut the sheet metal and weld in a new top part,, the T5 is wider and flatter on top as compared to the stock tranny
bianchi1 is offline  
post #38 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
86AlfaRossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 115
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
When gently reshaping the tunnel with a hammer, how much gap is enough? With motor mount and trans mount flexion you don't want then case hitting the tunnel under accel/decel. I guess I could go look and see how much room there is around the stock gearbox.

When doing this conversion I would be tempted to just plasma cut the top half of the tunnel off and replace it with a square cap of thicker material. The tunnel is a critical part of the unobody! I know you must mind the space for the heater and fan of course so you can't make it too tall. This is a little less "bolt on" approach however.
The required gap is dependent on what is going on with the mounts.
I've got stiff front mounts with Spruell travel limiters in place which limit engine roll and bounce pretty significantly. The mount I got for the S10 is pretty stiff but has no vertical travel limiters which may cause some pitch issues if I have any vertical inputs from a bump. We'll see. As far as cutting the tunnel I totally agree that welding a patch in is the way to go. I'm not convinced yet that it's required. I'll trade a stiff, well restrained, responsive engine mount system for cutting a patch to allow marco powertrain movement any day. If the trans mount gives me any grief I'll cobble a Viper engine mount in its place to stifle trans movement. All things considered if I have a "rub/bump" under hard accel/clutch dumps it isn't the end of the world. If it's rattling at idle it will need to be dealt with. Either way I'll keep everyone posted so they can make their own decisions in this matter.
Christmas and family commitments are getting in the way of nailing down tunnel restrictions but I did manage to get the RH bearing installed on my axle after dinner with the in-laws tonight.
Merry Christmas everyone!!
86AlfaRossa is offline  
post #39 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-25-2014, 08:49 PM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
horsewidower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wilton Ca
Posts: 2,291
I've solid mounted a 4-cylinder. The secondary harmonics inherent in an inline 4 causes it to shakes its bolts loose when constrained too much. I loctited, safety wired, etc. and still had things shake loose.

They need to be allowed to move.

Everyday is a school day. Learning something new all the time

View my '74 GTV restoration at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


View my '91 164s adventure at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


But wait there's more: View my 164LS thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. 1995 164LS 5 speed, awesome when it runs!!!

Musings on shop related items:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
horsewidower is online now  
post #40 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-25-2014, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
86AlfaRossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 115
Garage
I agree solid is a bad idea for anything on the street. Drag guys will bolt solid for dedicated cars but you need to allow the engine vibrations to me isolated from the rest of the car. Well constrained doesn't mean solid though. Limiting travel under acceleration and g events still allows for isolation while minimizing gross powertrain movement.
86AlfaRossa is offline  
post #41 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 05:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,982
86.. energy suspenion polly trans mounts and paul sprell motor mounts with cans will work well, mine have been set up like this from day 1 of my conversion., hope this helps
bianchi1 is offline  
post #42 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
86AlfaRossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 115
Garage
Thanks Bianchi
86AlfaRossa is offline  
post #43 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-27-2014, 09:29 PM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
horsewidower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wilton Ca
Posts: 2,291
I've driven Randal's car, it works quite well.

Everyday is a school day. Learning something new all the time

View my '74 GTV restoration at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


View my '91 164s adventure at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


But wait there's more: View my 164LS thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


You're kidding, another one?! 1984 GTV6 Maratona
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


You didn't...oh yes I did. '73 Berlina graduate course in rust repair. No thread yet, don't want to piss off the GTV

You didn't...oh yes I did II. 1995 164LS 5 speed, awesome when it runs!!!

Musings on shop related items:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
horsewidower is online now  
post #44 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 07:32 PM
Registered User
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chilliwack, BC
Posts: 57
Thumbs up

Holidays are over, back to work on this project. Hehe.

Paul alfanoob
Chill is offline  
post #45 of 96 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
86AlfaRossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 115
Garage
Thanks for the motivation Chill!!
I had two weeks off over the holidays and didn't accomplish a whole lot while I was off. I did manage to get a bunch of work done on the diff and got the area above the diff cleaned up and painted.
Yesterday however, I managed to tune in the tunnel to clear the trans. I'll have some pics in the next few days. I still need to do a final trial fit to make sure that everything is good. In retrospect it would be infinitely easier to do this with just the trans housing and bell housing without all the mass of the gears. There is no flat bottom on the trans so trying to man handle it in place on a floor jack tends to be...entertaining...as it keeps wanting to roll from side to side.
86AlfaRossa is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome