Another T5 Conversion Thread - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Removing the tabs made all the difference in the world. I skipped one on the top cover on the drivers side thinking that it wouldn't be in the way but I forgot the tunnel curves. I'll have to touch that up.
I managed to get the transmission bolted up but it's touching the tunnel on the aforementioned tab on the left and on a rib in the floor on the right. It looks like a little massage on the floor board will help the reverse switch issue and I noticed there's a couple bosses on the back of the tail stock that are lining right up with some structure in the tunnel and are too close for comfort. So some additional mass reduction will ensue along with some minor modifications to the floor with a dead blow hammer.
The cross member mounting position lines up pretty good with where the trans mount so the cross member should be fairly straight forward. That'll have to wait until I get the diff back in so I can get the angles right.
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post #17 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a couple of the drawings for the bolt pattern and the T5 bearing retainer modifications. The holes are sized for M10 SHCS to attach the plate to the bell housing first then M12 bolts to attach the plate and bell housing to the T5. I'll suggest using nothing less than 8.8 grade fasteners. I'll post the models next so you can either give it to a machine shop or have someone water jet the profile and holes then counter bore as needed.

T5 Bearing Retainer Machined.PDF

T5 to Alfa Bell Adapter Plate.PDF
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post #18 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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post #19 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 07:36 PM
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Wow! This is just what I was looking for. I know Bianchi has a kit, but I like to have the fun of building things myself.

I just spent the whole day working on cleaning out my shop, so I can get this project on the timeline. I'm finishing a short-course race truck right now, and have to build a utility trailer as well, so I need to finish those two before the alfa project begins.

So for now, I was just going to collect parts and see if I could find a CAD dwg of a T5 to make a drawing for an adapter plate.

I'm prepared for a little "fitting" to make the trans fit the tunnel, I'm keen to see how you make out.

Thanks a million for posting the files! Good luck on your project!

Paul alfanoob
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post #20 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Chill...I'm pretty eager for the weather to turn around so I can take her for a run. At this time i don't foresee any issues.
What's your plan for the speedo? i have a GPS speedo so it's a non-issue for me.
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post #21 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 09:18 PM
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Thanks for the information.

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post #22 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 09:42 PM
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Hey Chill...I'm pretty eager for the weather to turn around so I can take her for a run. At this time i don't foresee any issues.
What's your plan for the speedo? i have a GPS speedo so it's a non-issue for me.
I have been using the GPS speedo in my car as well. My speedo is currently buggered (melted cable) and so is my tach for that matter. ----> I haven't wired up the tach since Microsquirting the car.

That mechanical speedo could be really tricky, I could use a GPS signal and drive a servo motor I suppose. Could probably get that happening fairly cheaply these days.

It would probably be easier to drive the servo from an electronic signal. I think the S-10 tailshafts have an electronic speedo (option?). This is easier I would think to convert through a micro-controller and drive the servo.

Anyway, I'd be happy with easy, smooth shifts. Not to mention, there would be nothing to hold me back from building a new intake & exhaust manifold and bolting a turbo on....

Paul alfanoob
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post #23 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-21-2014, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Do a search for Speedhut on here. The make some really nice gauges and they fit nicely in the alfa bezel. The GPS speedo eliminates the need for a cable or counter. I wired their tach directly to my MS box and it works great.
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post #24 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got down to London Drive Systems today and had a chat with the fellow behind the counter. I think his name was Matt. Great guy. It only took a couple of minutes for us to get on page and he went in the back and returned with a slip yoke (P/N N2-3-6018X) and a flanged yoke (P/N D2-2-329) which will both take 1310 u-joints and the spline fits the Chevy output shaft. I picked up both of them because I'll need them to make the adapter to the differential flange on one end and the yoke for the measurement I'll need to take once I have the diff re installed.
I took a couple minutes and modeled up the adapter for the diff and the drive shaft flange. I'm planning on making it out of aluminum but I'm waffling a little bit on that. I made it 20mm think so I have 2 X the thread diameter (3/8 NC) for the bolts holding the DS Flange to the adapter.
Let me know if anyone has any "don't do it!" thoughts on this.
'm thinking aluminum over steel to keep the weight down and reduce the risk of vibration should anything be slightly off center.
Here's the drawing I made for the adapter...now made from steel.
Edit : Per suggestion from bearbvd it's best to use Neapco's N2-2-899-1 flange as opposed to an adapter. From measurements it looks to be a perfect fit for a 1310 yoke. I'll update a confirmation once I locate and have it in my possession.

I'm using 3/8" Shoulder bolts to hold the adapter to the differential flange.

Last edited by 86AlfaRossa; 02-20-2015 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Updated drawing with steel dimensions
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post #25 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 03:48 PM
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I made it 20mm think so I have 2 X the thread diameter (3/8 NC) for the bolts holding the DS Flange to the adapter.....Let me know if anyone has any "don't do it!" thoughts on this. I'm thinking aluminum over steel to keep the weight down and reduce the risk of vibration should anything be slightly off center.
I wouldn't trust bolts threaded into aluminum for this application. Unless there is room to put nuts on the backside, I'd use steel.

The weight difference between steel and aluminum is immaterial for so small a part. The diameter is too small to increase the driveline's moment of inertia appreciably. If you make the part on a lathe, it should be pretty well balanced. And again, any eccentricity will have little effect since the diameter is so small.

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post #26 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jay,
We hold engines in cars with the 2 X thread diameter rule but it's pretty much a static condition. The rotating vibrations and torque loads were causing my doubt. If I go steel i can thin it out a bit too. One thing I just thought of was the length of the shoulder bolts. I'll need to make sure I end up with a thickness that works for a common shoulder length.
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post #27 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 04:37 PM
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We hold engines in cars with the 2 X thread diameter rule but...
Into aluminum or into steel? And if aluminum, what alloy?

I must admit that I haven't done a detailed analysis of this, but given the loads and given the consequences of failure, using steel just seems prudent.

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post #28 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Can't recall the engine block aluminum alloy but most of our HPDCs are A380.1.
Extrusions are typically 6061-T6. Chrysler and GM typically require the 2 X rule for aluminum unless testing or analysis allows for a less than clause. Ford will allow 1.5X but typically is looking for analysis out of the gate.
We use the A380.1 to keep the iron content in check and try to maintain some elongation. Casting houses prefer higher iron content in an effort to reduce soldering to the molds.

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post #29 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 07:16 AM
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This thread is gold. Thanks for posting these details!
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post #30 of 96 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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This thread is gold. Thanks for posting these details!
Glad to help nealric
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