First Gear Fix - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #61 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Another way is to cut a strip of shim stock a few inches wide by 4 to 6 inches. Make a loop of it and put it on the inside of the seal - it will spring out and hold the seal clear. Then slide the bell housing with seal over the input shaft. With nothing sliding on the seal, it will be undamaged. Remove it carefully (there may be a sharp edge if you didn't sand it smooth).

Robert
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post #62 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 12:15 PM
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why not just get a old pepsi/dr.pepper/coke can and trim out a sleave to protect the seal before it goe's in, alum. cans are quite thin and you allways have them around the house.
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post #63 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 04:32 PM
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On the split case machined sealing surface, no matter what actual goop you use, (and yes, it's yamabond or ultra gray that's used on the Asian imports), you can get more effect and a lot more peace of mind if you run a silk thread along the machined surface to the inside of any bolt/stud holes.

The thread, and it must be silk, compresses when things are tightened down and works like a sort of micro-gasket or very thin o-ring that doesn't need a groove. (works great for 2 & 4 stroke motorcycle engine cases and split gearcases)
OK, Tif, so I guess I go to the local sewing/arts/crafts store and get some silk? What gauge....? Ill try anything if it improves chances for preventing leaks.

(OK, now, where did you hear this trick from? )
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post #64 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 04:34 PM
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Another way is to cut a strip of shim stock a few inches wide by 4 to 6 inches. Make a loop of it and put it on the inside of the seal - it will spring out and hold the seal clear. Then slide the bell housing with seal over the input shaft. With nothing sliding on the seal, it will be undamaged. Remove it carefully (there may be a sharp edge if you didn't sand it smooth).

Robert
Now I was thinking of a variation of that, you know....LOL.

What about something similar in idea, but without sharp edges...like some heavy grade of paper?
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post #65 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 04:36 PM
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why not just get a old pepsi/dr.pepper/coke can and trim out a sleave to protect the seal before it goe's in, alum. cans are quite thin and you allways have them around the house.
Close, Bianchi, but what about cut up plastic milk gallon? Thin, NO sharp edges.........Kinda stiff, though, maybe not ideal.
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post #66 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 04:56 PM
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OK, Tif, so I guess I go to the local sewing/arts/crafts store and get some silk? What gauge....? Ill try anything if it improves chances for preventing leaks.
Just 'regular' gauge/size, nothing special, though you can pick what color you like it you want.

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OK, now, where did you hear this trick from?
An old man who used to race old things years and years ago.




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post #67 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 06:23 PM
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The silk thread is used as I understand it on aircraft engine cases.
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post #68 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 10:21 AM
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This silk stuff is a must, now.
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post #69 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 03:30 PM
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Thinking about it, the guy that told me was in the Air Force during the late 50's before he went off to become a civil engineer.....




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post #70 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 07:25 PM
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Silk thread??

Forget the thread. Permatex Ultra Blue RTV sealant will seal the cases and is impermeable to the additives in Redline NS. Your leak problen with split cases is all the studs & bolts. Coat them around the heads before inserting including the washers. Same for the studs before putting on washers & nuts.

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post #71 of 151 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 01:17 PM
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Forget the thread. Permatex Ultra Blue RTV sealant will seal the cases and is impermeable to the additives in Redline NS. Your leak problen with split cases is all the studs & bolts. Coat them around the heads before inserting including the washers. Same for the studs before putting on washers & nuts.
OK, good point, Rich. But dont the joining surfaces go AROUND the bolts to seal them off?

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post #72 of 151 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 06:02 PM
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OK, good point, Rich. But dont the joining surfaces go AROUND the bolts to seal them off?

Joe
Hmmmm, about a month, now. Anyone want to comment ? I say, why should the bolts be a problem, when the case surface continues AROUND the bolt?? Maybe cuz its usually thinner surface?

Im gonna have to know this within 7-10 days, now......LOL
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post #73 of 151 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 08:56 AM
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The seals work fine generally. Be sure the seal surface on the input shaft is smooth, and it is really important that the front bearing is good. The input shaft - output shaft spacing is critical to the health of this bearing, so the shims must be right on.

Also, any misalignment of the clutch, or out-of-balance will damage the front seal.

But also be sure to get the shift rod o-rings right!


Robert

Robert, just what are these shift rod o rings? The metal cupped circular bands that stack up on top of the case, around the base of shift rod? or actually rubber o rings?

Joe
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post #74 of 151 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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In the first generation (mine's a 67) tx, the shift rods go thru the front of the case into the bell housing. One pushes the reverse light switch. All three of these rods have o- rings in the tx to keep the tx lube away from the clutch.

Later tx's moved the reverse switch to the tx tail housing. the shift rods are shorter in the front and do not penetrate into the bell housing at all, so have no o-rings.

Robert
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post #75 of 151 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 01:53 AM
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Hi,

This is an old thread (almost 3 years old); Of those who did the fix to the first gear, can you share your experiences? Did it turn out as expected? Is it still working? At least some contributors of this thread claim that they did the modification almost 40 years ago. What about the experience of others?

Spider 2.0i 1992 | GTV 2000 1971 | Giulia Spider 1963
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